Hall sensor connection

[UrbanPuma]

I forgot you were 24v, maybe around 8. As I said, it doesn't do anything significant. remember the old days when the fuel gauge in your car went up when you went round a roundabout and up a hill, then went rught down when you went downhill. they solved that with damping to make it more realistic in showing how much fuel you actually have. That's what P5 does.

Ok I'll set it to 8. Thanks Saneagle.

 

[saneagle]

Morning everyone, I bought an ebike tester and and tested everything. The motor is fine because the 3 motor hall lights flicker/alternate on the tester when turning the wheel. However, it looks like the phase wires are the problem because when I spin the wheel to get the same response from the phase wires no lights come on at all. Picture attached.

I'm going to de-solder the phase wires. Is there a way to try the sequences on the tester or would I need to re-solder onto the mt60 connector? If, so which colours to colour?

I really appreciate everyone helping and feel like we are making progress

Also, my left brake sensor (to the motor) doesn't work.

Ok I'll set it to 8. Thanks Saneagle.

It doesn't sound right. I can' think of any reason how it can happen that all three phase wires are shorted or open circuit. If they were shorted, you wouldn't be able to turn the motor anyway, so it can't be that. That only leaves open circuit, which could only happen if either the cable was cut or the motor connector wasn't pushed all the way in.

Just to clarify things a bit in case you didn't test properly. The motor LEDs light up when the motor generates power. It only does that when you turn it backwards, and you need some speed to get enough voltage. Turning it slowly won't generate enough.

 

[UrbanPuma]

It doesn't sound right. I can' think of any reason how it can happen that all three phase wires are shorted or open circuit. If they were shorted, you wouldn't be able to turn the motor anyway, so it can't be that. That only leaves open circuit, which could only happen if either the cable was cut or the motor connector wasn't pushed all the way in.

Just to clarify things a bit in case you didn't test properly. The motor LEDs light up when the motor generates power. It only does that when you turn it backwards, and you need some speed to get enough voltage. Turning it slowly won't generate enough.

The motor halls lit up and changed in sequence when I turned the wheel backwards.

Ah ok. I had the bike upright so maybe I didn't generate enough power when testing the phase wires. I will flip the bike in the morning and use the pedal to generate higher power. I'll report back then.

Thanks Saneagle.

 

[Nealh]

If you are going to test all 36 combos , get your self a string of those 30a amps screw connector blocks (the clear /opaque plastic ones used by sparks. Simply just change the wires on one side to do all the testing, then once (hopefully) you get a good working combo then solder up all your connections.

 

[UrbanPuma]

Morning all,

Tested the phase and hall sensors and all are working properly. Pic attached, so looks like I'll have to try the wire combinations to get the bike working. I've just ordered the 30a electrical connector blocks, Nealh - thanks. I'll watch a video on how to do these combination tests and report back once done. Thank you all again. Fingers crossed.

 

[AGS]

While you are waiting for the connector blocks to arrive, it may be a good idea to take the cover off the controller and check that all of the hall wires are soldered to the printed circuit board properly. And do a continuity check with your multimeter set to ohms, between the pcb pin and the connector pin just make make sure there are no broken wires.

Just be careful when poking about because the capacitors may still be charged up.

 

[saneagle]

You can do six of the combinations now, just by swapping rouns the phase wire connectors. There are 3 out of 36 combinations that work, so by doing 6 tries, you have a one in three chance of success. That will only take 5 minutes and is a lot less messing about than using connector blocks. Also, I seem to remember from before that a couple of people had success just by swapping two phase wires.

 

[Nealh]

The phase wires are soldered in to a mt60 so they can't simply be swapped , they will need de soldering or cutting and another connector source to see if they work.

 

[saneagle]

The phase wires are soldered in to a mt60 so they can't simply be swapped , they will need de soldering or cutting and another connector source to see if they work.

Some guys like to make things difficult for themselves.

If anybody doesn't like bullet connectors, cut them off and solder the wires. I can't understand why anybody would want to go to the expense and effort to fit new connectors when the work to do that is more than the work to solder the wires together, the cost is higher and the result is less reliable.

 

[AntonyC]

You wrote "pressed walk assist...little man appeared on the display and then a slight noise from the motor as if it's trying then error code 03 appeared". Walk assist is nice as no sensor plugs are involved. It does sound like hall sequence, but if it isn't here are some pre-canal rites to cross off.

Suppose that error 03 could mean hall or other wiring issue, or is what's shown when there's severe voltage drop, or that the controller can drive the motor just fine ("trying") but is deciding it ought not to.

It might be worth checking the controller's new power plugs, I've known a crimp look good but be bad, this could show full voltage on the display but plummet when the motor's started.

You mentioned a brake sensor not working, hopefully both are disconnected for your tests.

Does this controller need/have battery voltage on LCD plug pin 2? Need the hall plug pin2 toggled to tell it the motor's not stalled (unlikely)? Actually this is all unlikely, but.....

 

[AntonyC]

1. Battery was purchased in 2012 and was re-celled in 2021 (24v 17.5ah). Key switch developed an issue - there was a gap between the lock and case and when I press the black area which the lock is sitting in the light goes on and off. Apparently, the switch wiring is fiddly to connect properly.

Probably harmless but when the motor's fixed this should really be fixed too, because battery.

 

[UrbanPuma]

Hi all,

Thanks for suggestion AGS, I'm not too confident opening the controller at the moment so will leave that for now.

Thanks Saneagle, I will test the phase wires. I agree, it has been more trouble than it's worth, as the person who fitted them blew my old controller hence the reason I'm now upgrading and where I am now.

Hi Nealh, I cut the mt60 connectors off. I'm going to put bullet connectors back on the phase wires, as much simpler. Is there a link for ones that are suitable for 24v 15a controller and 17.5ah battery?

Thanks Anthony C, I'll consider your suggestions after trying the phase combinations. Brake sensors were disconnected throughout. If I understand correctly, are you asking about battery voltage on the display? If so, battery voltage was on the display. At start it was 28.8v and after tests 28.2v. I'm wondering - are certain amps required for the battery's power connectors?

Thanks everyone, I'll report back once done the phase wire sequencing.

 

[saneagle]

Hi all,

Thanks for suggestion AGS, I'm not too confident opening the controller at the moment so will leave that for now.

Thanks Saneagle, I will test the phase wires. I agree, it has been more trouble than it's worth, as the person who fitted them blew my old controller hence the reason I'm now upgrading and where I am now.

Hi Nealh, I cut the mt60 connectors off. I'm going to put bullet connectors back on the phase wires, as much simpler. Is there a link for ones that are suitable for 24v 15a controller and 17.5ah battery?

Thanks Anthony C, I'll consider your suggestions after trying the phase combinations. Brake sensors were disconnected throughout. If I understand correctly, are you asking about battery voltage on the display? If so, battery voltage was on the display. At start it was 28.8v and after tests 28.2v. I'm wondering - are certain amps required for the battery's power connectors?

Thanks everyone, I'll report back once done the phase wire sequencing.

For testing, you only need to strip about 5mm of insulation from the end, then bend the copper wires back against the insulation. Maybe crimp the barrels down a bit between your thumb and finger if it's too loose. Once you have the right combination, you can solder them to the controller directly. It doesn't make sense to fit any connectors now.

 

[AntonyC]

I've known a crimp look good but be bad, this could show full voltage on the display but plummet when the motor's started.

If I understand correctly, are you asking about battery voltage on the display? If so, battery voltage was on the display.

For now check the +/- power bullets on the controller resist a good wiggle (and re-test bike), re-visit if sequencing the phases doesn't help. Whatever size matches your battery should be OK and fitting new ones is easier than testing. That's because a poor contact can make the voltage dip at start-up and the controller lose power, so straight away the voltage bounces back again.

It's nice to be working with clear photos and detailed descriptions, this thread is sure to run until your bike does

 

[UrbanPuma]

For now check the +/- power bullets on the controller resist a good wiggle (and re-test bike), re-visit if sequencing the phases doesn't help. Whatever size matches your battery should be OK and fitting new ones is easier than testing. That's because a poor contact can make the voltage dip at start-up and the controller lose power, so straight away the voltage bounces back again.

It's nice to be working with clear photos and detailed descriptions, this thread is sure to run until your bike does

Hi Antony, you were right about the crimping - thank you so much! I looked down the barrel and could see I hadn't crimped the wire to the contacts so I did that this morning and now the battery light is stable. The light doesn't come on until I turn the key onto the on position (which is normal/same as my old controller's operation) and there is no more flickering of the light. When I switch the key off, the light does stay on for a minute or two before disappearing. Is this what I should expect due to new controller/system?

Ah it's nice to know that I am providing useful information and pictures to help solve the problem and it's great to hear this thread will keep going until my bike does too - I really think we're getting close

I removed the bullet connectors from the phase wires yesterday, but I would like to see if the error code is still there before the block connectors arrive - can I connect controller to motor phase wires using crocodile clips to check?

 

[Nealh]

You can use any temporary connection for testing as long as they are insulated against shorting with each other.

 

[UrbanPuma]

You can use any temporary connection for testing as long as they are insulated against shorting with each other.

Ok, great. I'll report back soon. Thanks Nealh.

Update: just powered up and still getting error code 03, so will do phase wire sequencing and report back. Happy battery light is fixed though 1 down: 1 to go

 

[UrbanPuma]

Hi everyone,

I just did the phase wire swaps. Saneagle, I hope I'm doing it right? I connected the wires to the block connectors and touched the throttle slightly for each test. The only slight noise I received from the motor was from the sequence, yellow - blue, green - green, blue - yellow. The 5 other combinations produced no sound and no motor movement at all and error 03 appeared as usual.

I'll have to remove the pins from the hall sensor connector to test those, but they're such thin wires that I'm hoping I can preserve the pins as there's not much wire to cut to fit new ones - hoping for the best.

Any ideas so far or should I just continue swapping the hall sensors?

 

[saneagle]

Hi everyone,

I just did the phase wire swaps. Saneagle, I hope I'm doing it right? I connected the wires to the block connectors and touched the throttle slightly for each test. The only slight noise I received from the motor was from the sequence, yellow - blue, green - green, blue - yellow. The 5 other combinations produced no sound and no motor movement at all and error 03 appeared as usual.

I'll have to remove the pins from the hall sensor connector to test those, but they're such thin wires that I'm hoping I can preserve the pins as there's not much wire to cut to fit new ones - hoping for the best.

Any ideas so far or should I just continue swapping the hall sensors?

You can cut the three hall wires about an inch from the connector, strip back the insulation and just twist them together to do the tests. Use a bit of bent card or similar to separate them from shorting. Once you've done the tests, solder and heatshrink the wires.

 

[UrbanPuma]

You can cut the three hall wires about an inch from the connector, strip back the insulation and just twist them together to do the tests. Use a bit of bent card or similar to separate them from shorting. Once you've done the tests, solder and heatshrink the wires.

Thanks for your instruction Saneagle.

I had to take the hall sensor wires off the connector and two broke off so now I have to crimp them again - those two were very difficult to remove (couldn't get them out). I think only the red one looks crimped properly...the others have exposed wire where the insulated crimped bit should be. Pic attached.

I'm going to re-crimp and then use the connector blocks (now received) to test connections and sequencing.