Hall sensor connection

[UrbanPuma]

OK, I misunderstood what you meant. If I had your bike in front of me, I'd have it sorted in one minute. The problem is to know what you're saying and what you've done.

If I understand correctly now, when you connect everything and switch on, all is OK. The LCD lights up and shows everything normal, then when you tell the controller to give power, you get 03 error code.

If you're sure that the motor cable is OK and it's properly connected, you must have the wrong connection sequence, so you should go through all 36 combinations of three phase wires and three hall wires until you find one of the three correct ones.

Before you do that, where exactly did you check that the halls were switching - on the controller side of the connector or the motor side? If motor side, do it again on the controller side.

No probs - I would love for it to be sorted in one minute you guys are helping a bunch.

Yes, when I connect everything and switch on, all is ok. Yes, everything lights up and display is normal. Yes, when I tell the controller to give power via pas or throttle the display flashes 03 error code.

Yes, I think the motor cables phase and hall sensors are connected correctly - all colours match. I will do the test again from motor then controller as I can't remember which end I did the tests.

I'll report back shortly everyone. Thanks

 

[UrbanPuma]

It means the hall sensors are working and the wiring to the connector is ok, but you already tested them the other day.

If your new controller doesn’t work then you still have wiring issues with your new controller if you are still getting the 03 error. The symptom still suggests a bad connection between the plug and socket for the hall sensors. Bent or broken pin maybe?

There are other things you may need to do regarding swapping hall and phase wires to get your motor to run with the new controller, but the 03 error must be fixed before you can move on to the next step.

Ok, I'm going to double check the connectors and re-test both ends of halls from motor and connector. Will report back soon.

 

[AGS]

I had a fault exactly the same as this once, with no obvious sign of anything wrong with my connectors.

I crimped new pins on the wires and the fault disappeared. One of those pins was no good and wasn’t making proper contact when plugged in.

 

[danielrlee]

Disconnect everything from the controller except for the battery, motor and display, then try powering the motor using the walk-assist function - you can do so by holding the [DOWN] button on the LCD display. Let us know what happens.

 

[UrbanPuma]

Hi everyone,

I've just tested the hall sensors again, this time from both ends and results are as follows:

Motor end:
Black + yellow = 4.95 - 0.03
Black + green = 4.95 - 0.03
Black + blue = 0.03 - 4.95

Controller end:
Black + yellow = 0.03 - 4.95
Black + green = 0.03 - 4.95
Black + blue = 4.94 - 0.03

 

[UrbanPuma]

I had a fault exactly the same as this once, with no obvious sign of anything wrong with my connectors.

I crimped new pins on the wires and the fault disappeared. One of those pins was no good and wasn’t making proper contact when plugged in.

Ah ok, did your hall signals test as normal when it was faulty?

 

[UrbanPuma]

Disconnect everything from the controller except for the battery, motor and display, then try powering the motor using the walk-assist function - you can do so by holding the [DOWN] button on the LCD display. Let us know what happens.

Ok, will do this now - I have to flip the bike upright again. Will report back. Thanks.

Update: connected just those connectors as instructed and pressed walk assist...little man appeared on the display and then a slight noise from the motor as if it's trying then error code 03 appeared (same thing happens with throttle but intermittently and looks like slight backward moton). I have attached pic of my connectors.

Green line = display
Pink line = hall sensors
Yellow = phase wires
White = power wires

I don't know why it's not working as everything on wire side seems fine :-(

 

[saneagle]

Ah ok, did your hall signals test as normal when it was faulty?

When you check the halls on the controller sode of the connector and they work OK, like you did, that eliminates all potental problems with the halls, the cable and the connectors. That leaves either wrong connection sequence, wrong controller settings (C2) or a faulty conection in the controller (not very likely).

 

[UrbanPuma]

When you check the halls on the controller sode of the connector and they work OK, like you did, that eliminates all potental problems with the halls, the cable and the connectors. That leaves either wrong connection sequence, wrong controller settings (C2) or a faulty conection in the controller (not very likely).

Ok, that's great to hear Saneagle. Thanks.

Can we check C2 sequence first? I've no idea what to set C2 to; it's on default 0. The controller is sinewave. My bike is 1:1 pedal assist I think. What should I set C2 to?

 

[AGS]

Probably a good idea if you list all of your P and C settings

 

[AntonyC]

If the above doesn't nail it, a very long shot but voltage dip on load can give confusing symptoms. Was the battery weirdness explained, is the battery ancient? Does the bike still have all its grunt with the old controller? Is there any kind of enable connection on the new controller other than the LCD? Did you re-solder the controller's battery plugs? Got another battery?

 

[saneagle]

Ok, that's great to hear Saneagle. Thanks.

Can we check C2 sequence first? I've no idea what to set C2 to; it's on default 0. The controller is sinewave. My bike is 1:1 pedal assist I think. What should I set C2 to?

AFAIK, it differentiates between 60 deg and 120 deg phase angle. Just try whatever settings are available. If nothing solves it, put it back to zero.

 

[UrbanPuma]

Probably a good idea if you list all of your P and C settings

Ok AGS. My settings are as follows:

P1 = 87
P2 = 0
P3 = 1
P4 = 0
P5 = 11

C1 = 00
C2 = 0
C3 = 0
C4 = 3
C5 = 10
C6 = 3
C7 = 1
C8 = 1
C9 = 0
C10 = n
C11 = 0
C12 = 0
C13 = 0
C14 = 2

 

[UrbanPuma]

AFAIK, it differentiates between 60 deg and 120 deg phase angle. Just try whatever settings are available. If nothing solves it, put it back to zero.

Ok, will do Saneagle.

 

[UrbanPuma]

If the above doesn't nail it, a very long shot but voltage dip on load can give confusing symptoms. Was the battery weirdness explained, is the battery ancient? Does the bike still have all its grunt with the old controller? Is there any kind of enable connection on the new controller other than the LCD? Did you re-solder the controller's battery plugs? Got another battery?

Hi AntonyC, thanks for chipping in to help too. I'll answer your questions.

1. Battery was purchased in 2012 and was re-celled in 2021 (24v 17.5ah). Key switch developed an issue - there was a gap between the lock and case and when I press the black area which the lock is sitting in the light goes on and off. Apparently, the switch wiring is fiddly to connect properly.

2. Yes, the battery has all it's grunt with old controller.

3. There is a sensor connector on the new controller (red, white and black) that isn't connected to anything.

4. I crimped new battery plugs (insulated bullet connectors) onto the new controller because they were opposite fitting for my bike (bike has red = male, black = female bullet connectors).

5. I don't have another battery.

Hope this info helps. Thanks

 

[AGS]

Set
C12 = 4 to set default for battery low voltage cut off
C8 = 0 to disable motor temperature sensor
C7 = 0 to disable cruise control
C4 = 0 to enable full power of the throttle in all assist levels
C2 = Try all of the settings to see if error code 03 disappears. If not then reset back to 0

P5 = 0 to measure real time voltage

We don’t know how many magnets your motor has or what the gear ratio is so we can’t advise on P1 and P2, so leave P1 at 87 for the time being. You will have to set P1 and P2 after the motor is running properly.

The most important setting at this stage is C2. This is the only one that may be causing error 3. I think it’s like advancing the ignition timing on your car, so it moves the hall sensor phasing electronically without having to physically move the hall sensors to get the timing correct for the motor.

Watch this video again to understand the settings:

 

[danielrlee]

Ok, that's great to hear Saneagle. Thanks.

Can we check C2 sequence first? I've no idea what to set C2 to; it's on default 0. The controller is sinewave. My bike is 1:1 pedal assist I think. What should I set C2 to?

Custom parameter C2 adjusts the motor phase angle & timing. You should try making incremental changes to this setting, starting at '0', each time increasing the value by 1 and seeing the effect this has on motor operation.

PLEASE NOTE: The C2 parameter only takes effect after a power cycle of the LCD. This means that each time you change the C2 setting, you must power off and then power on the display in order for the controller to initialize with the new setting. Please be sure to cycle the power each time you make a change to C2 in order to evaluate the effect on the motor using the walk-assist function.

 

[UrbanPuma]

Set
C12 = 4 to set default for battery low voltage cut off
C8 = 0 to disable motor temperature sensor
C7 = 0 to disable cruise control
C4 = 0 to enable full power of the throttle in all assist levels
C2 = Try all of the settings to see if error code 03 disappears. If not then reset back to 0

P5 = 0 to measure real time voltage

We don’t know how many magnets your motor has or what the gear ratio is so we can’t advise on P1 and P2, so leave P1 at 87 for the time being. You will have to set P1 and P2 after the motor is running properly.

The most important setting at this stage is C2. This is the only one that may be causing error 3. I think it’s like advancing the ignition timing on your car, so it moves the hall sensor phasing electronically without having to physically move the hall sensors to get the timing correct for the motor.

Watch this video again to understand the settings:

Morning AGS, I've input the codes you gave me, except p5 (the system wouldn't allow me to go down to 0; so I set it to 1 which is lowest it will go) - the error code has gone! Yaay thank you so much!

However, the throttle and motor still don't work. What should I do next? Cycle through c2 until bike works?

 

[UrbanPuma]

Custom parameter C2 adjusts the motor phase angle & timing. You should try making incremental changes to this setting, starting at '0', each time increasing the value by 1 and seeing the effect this has on motor operation.

PLEASE NOTE: The C2 parameter only takes effect after a power cycle of the LCD. This means that each time you change the C2 setting, you must power off and then power on the display in order for the controller to initialize with the new setting. Please be sure to cycle the power each time you make a change to C2 in order to evaluate the effect on the motor using the walk-assist function.

I'm going to try it shortly as motor and throttle not working yet - hoping this gets me up and running. Error code has gone now after updating settings given by AGS. I'll report back once I've tried all c2 settings. Thank you very much for this information, Danielrlee.

 

[AGS]

Strange about P5, but that’s not important for the time being.

Yes, cycle through the C2 values to change the hall sensor phase timings.

I tried it on my bike yesterday. My Bafang motor should be set to 0 and when I started adjusting C2 it didn’t like it.

We are assuming your motor is not a Bafang, so it may want a different value for C2, although it’s anyone’s guess what the setting should be.

If C2 doesn’t get rid of error 03 then set it back to 0 after trying every combination and then someone will have to think about what to try next.

This could mean opening up the controller to inspect the hall wiring inside.