Hall sensor connection
- Thread starter UrbanPuma
- Start date
Labelling is correct, your bike and battery are 26 volt, 7 x 3.7v cells in series giving 25.9 volts nominal. The mentions of 24 volt are just sticking to the old nominal voltage when we used NiMh batteries
But do KT make any 24/26 volt controllers? Only 36 volt upwards as far as I know, so that could be your problem.
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Yes they do one. This is the controller that I think the op has, coupled with an LCD03 display:
torquetech.co.uk
Sensored Brushless Motor Controller DC 24V/36V 250W 6-FET 15A KT Sine
6 fet 15A KT sine wave brushless controller. PLEASE NOTE: This is a sensored brushless motor controller. Your motor should have 8 or 9 wires in order to function with this controller. If your motor only has 3 wires, you will require a sensorless controller. Although this controller can be used...
torquetech.co.uk
Thanks Flecc, could you have a look at the last picture I just added of the invoice as I had it re-celled. They state 24v, so I wonder if it's possible they converted the volts?
Yes, this is the one I have. The hall sensor colour wires match but could the wiring be different?Yes they do one. This is the controller that I think the op has, coupled with an LCD03 display:
Sensored Brushless Motor Controller DC 24V/36V 250W 6-FET 15A KT Sine
6 fet 15A KT sine wave brushless controller. PLEASE NOTE: This is a sensored brushless motor controller. Your motor should have 8 or 9 wires in order to function with this controller. If your motor only has 3 wires, you will require a sensorless controller. Although this controller can be used...
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No, that is just nominal. Many still use the old conventionof saying 24 volts, despite lithium ones being 26 volts now.
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I assumed you had 36/48v controller but #1 shows the description in the pic as 24/36v controller.
Not really sure why it isn't working but the 03 error suggests to me that you do have a motor Hall or wire fault, so we need to fault find and start from the beginning.
Start from scratch and just connect the PAS , motor and display forget the throttle for now.
Use a meter and check the motor Hall sensors via the controller Hall connector with battery power on, probe the thin Yellow Hall wire and the thin Black Hall wire. One should see 4.5 - 5v, If you see voltage slowly turn the motor ACW by hand and one should see the voltage switching .
Also do the same with the thin Blue and thin Green Hall wire, one should see the same 4.5 - 5v and the voatge switching as for the Yellow Hall.
If one tests the Hall and doesn't see approx. 5v then the Hall is faulty, like wise if one doesn't see the Hall switch when turning ACW it is faulty. If you turn the wheel to fast then you will see 2.5v .
If one doesn't start with the basics to confirm Halls are intact then one won't get any where.
Not really sure why it isn't working but the 03 error suggests to me that you do have a motor Hall or wire fault, so we need to fault find and start from the beginning.
Start from scratch and just connect the PAS , motor and display forget the throttle for now.
Use a meter and check the motor Hall sensors via the controller Hall connector with battery power on, probe the thin Yellow Hall wire and the thin Black Hall wire. One should see 4.5 - 5v, If you see voltage slowly turn the motor ACW by hand and one should see the voltage switching .
Also do the same with the thin Blue and thin Green Hall wire, one should see the same 4.5 - 5v and the voatge switching as for the Yellow Hall.
If one tests the Hall and doesn't see approx. 5v then the Hall is faulty, like wise if one doesn't see the Hall switch when turning ACW it is faulty. If you turn the wheel to fast then you will see 2.5v .
If one doesn't start with the basics to confirm Halls are intact then one won't get any where.
Also are you 100% sure the the Black/Red & White wire connector is the PAS wiring as I'm sure you have the throttle connected to PAS.
In #16 you show a pic of the PAS sensor Red /Black /Blue connected to controller throttle, Red/Black/Blue or Green for PAS sensor makes sense to me and is a common combo to use as White is often used for speed siganl wire or throttle.
The Red/Black/Bue PAS should connect to controller Brown/Black/Yellow respectively.
Though as I have mentioned Motor Hall sensors need confirming first as intact and switching.
In #16 you show a pic of the PAS sensor Red /Black /Blue connected to controller throttle, Red/Black/Blue or Green for PAS sensor makes sense to me and is a common combo to use as White is often used for speed siganl wire or throttle.
The Red/Black/Bue PAS should connect to controller Brown/Black/Yellow respectively.
Though as I have mentioned Motor Hall sensors need confirming first as intact and switching.
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Yes, I definitely think it's correct - the pas (white, black and red) wire is attached to/enters the magnet thing near the chainring.
I re-crimped some of the hall sensor wires as blue came out by pulling very easily. I'm about to test the hall sensors. What should the multimeter be set to, DC 200v or 20v?
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My controller is 24/36/48v Nealh. Ok, I've just tested the hall sensors (just probing/idle) and readings are as follows:
Black + yellow = 0.03
Black + green = 0.03
Black + blue = 4.94
Are the readings low for yellow and green? I haven't turned the wheel on any of them yet.
You have to turn the wheel slowly in an anti-clockwise direction as Nealth said, otherwise the hall sensors won’t turn on and off. It is important to do it anti-clockwise and not clockwise because if you have a geared motor the test won’t work because the clutch won’t engage.
When you turn the wheel anti-clockwise, the magnetic field will trigger each hall sensor in turn, so black and blue will go to 0v and one of the other two will switch to +5v.
They will all cycle in turn. These signals all feed into the controller and are processed together with other signals from your PAS and throttle, then the controller knows when to switch the FETs for each phase on and off that supply the power to turn your motor.
So put the meter back on black and blue, turn the wheel slowly anti-clockwise and it should switch from 4.94v to 0v. Keep turning the wheel slowly and it should switch back to 4.94v. Keep turning the wheel until you see it switch several times and repeat the process on the other two phases.
If they all keep switching between 0v and 4.94v then the test has been successful and your hall sensors are all working properly.
Here is the testing procedure that we have described with some photographs to help you:
When you turn the wheel anti-clockwise, the magnetic field will trigger each hall sensor in turn, so black and blue will go to 0v and one of the other two will switch to +5v.
They will all cycle in turn. These signals all feed into the controller and are processed together with other signals from your PAS and throttle, then the controller knows when to switch the FETs for each phase on and off that supply the power to turn your motor.
So put the meter back on black and blue, turn the wheel slowly anti-clockwise and it should switch from 4.94v to 0v. Keep turning the wheel slowly and it should switch back to 4.94v. Keep turning the wheel until you see it switch several times and repeat the process on the other two phases.
If they all keep switching between 0v and 4.94v then the test has been successful and your hall sensors are all working properly.
Here is the testing procedure that we have described with some photographs to help you:
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Initial readings show two Hall are toast though one should completet the full test one should see near 5v as the Blue does and similar to near 0v when switching.
If they don't that is the reason why error 03 is showing and why the motor doesn't work.
Disconnect all of the motor halls at the controller and see if it will work sensorless.
Some KT displays have an L setting L3 0 allows sensorless operation.
If they don't that is the reason why error 03 is showing and why the motor doesn't work.
Disconnect all of the motor halls at the controller and see if it will work sensorless.
Some KT displays have an L setting L3 0 allows sensorless operation.
The controllers don't cover triple voltage as they dual voltage models, either 24v/36v or 36v/48v.
Hi AGS and Nealh,
I've managed to do the testing and all wheel turns result in the three wires fluctuating between two numbers.
Black + yellow = 4.95 - 0.3
Black + green = 4.95 - 0.3
Black + blue = 4.94 - 0.3
I switched to using paperclips as pins kept falling out. If it still doesn't work, could it be that the hall wires need switching?
I've managed to do the testing and all wheel turns result in the three wires fluctuating between two numbers.
Black + yellow = 4.95 - 0.3
Black + green = 4.95 - 0.3
Black + blue = 4.94 - 0.3
I switched to using paperclips as pins kept falling out. If it still doesn't work, could it be that the hall wires need switching?
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