First attempt at this, I have a Gtech bike (Aug 17). I had to have the battery replaced Nov 18, started falling of a cliff at about 30% remaining. Now the new battery (or charger possibly) is a problem, will not charge past 25%. About to start a dispute with Gtech as they are saying it is out of Warranty. Anyone else had any problems?
Gtech battery problems
- Thread starter atchaplo
- Start date
It might also be the way you are using your battery.
Some simple care is maybe needed, and the e-bike Firms are not always upfront with full details....Just in case it puts a buyer off buying.
Though I am not saying that their batteries are good, as I have never had one from that supplier...
If you would like to tell us exactly how you use and charge the battery, then if I see where the problem might lie, I will let you know....
I got 6 years from my first battery, on my first e-bike, using it as good as every day.
I gave the bike away with that battery still in working order...
Up to you.
regards
Andy
Thanks for that Andy, it does not get a lot of use a fairly regular round (flattish) trip of about 22 miles. I charge it in the charger provided by Gtech. The battery sits upright in the charger it would be difficult to position it wrongly. Since my first posting I have tried something else which also did not work. The battery also has a USB connection ( I think for in car charging). I have tried that it does not charge that way either which seems to eliminate the charger as the problem. Gtech are being awkward I feel the small claims court looming
The usb connection will be for powering usb devices (such as phone used as satnav).
USB voltage would not be useful for charging from car.
USB voltage would not be useful for charging from car.
Probably the USB socket is 5 volts to charge external devices like phones. Applying a voltage to this point, may damage the USB circuitry.....Do not now use it for a phone, till ithas been checked out by someone knowledgeable.
What I was looking for you to tell us were things like this:-
Do you leave your battery on the charger even though the battery is charged and the green LED is on? Cheaper chargers still apply a tiny charging current, that can damage the battery eventually.
Do you leave the battery for long periods (weeks or longer) when its already "empty/discharged"? This can possibly allow the charge to senk very low and cause chemical damage to the battery!
Doe the battery get hot in the summer and very cold in the winter because its outside all the time?
Is your bike outside in the rain sometimes, with no cover?
Li-ion Batteries (which I assume it is), need simple but careful "protection".
Regards
Andy
Thanks for that Andy, mine does not have an LED just displays 99% I leave it on which is what I am usre Gtech said do. I always charge it up immediately after use and it is indoors so stable temp. The bike (and battery) have not been left out in the rain at any point. Not sure if it is a Li-Lion battery
Regards
Alan
Regards
Alan
Thanks for the reply.
In spite of not knowing 100 which charger they use, and its a fiddle to test and see if there are leakage currents or not, it is therefore safer to remove mains power to the charger, once charging is finished.
This point is a source of ernest discussion in the e-bike world, but unless you KNOW 150% that the charging is fully cut off, its the only safe way to go.
There are many reasons to cut mains power, as its nothing new, that Li-ion batteries, IF THEY CATCH FIRE, need a fire brigade service to finally put them out.....we can only make sure we charge outside, under cover, where nothing can get damaged. Removing the power cable, rmakes the problems a little better.
regards
Andy
I also have battery charging problems with my Gtech. I have 4 batteries and 3 chargers. The problem is the same with all the batteries and any combination of battery or charger, so I believe it to be a general firmware problem of the computerised control gear which sits inside the top of the battery, above the cells themselves. (I've seen inside one which was dead and had been taken apart). The problem is this:- about 50% of the time the batteries charge correctly and go on to 99% (full). The rest of the time the charging 'sticks' at a random percentage. Removing the battery and replacing it on the charger does nothing, it remains stuck at the same percentage. The only way I have found to remedy this is to go on a very short ride, just a few yards, and this seems to reset the battery and putting it back on the charger will get it charging again. BUT, the funny thing is the battery must have been fully charged all along, as in about 5 minutes it will register 'FULL', when it couldn't possibly have charged from a low percentage to full in that time. That is why I think it is a control-circuit fault. I've not risked going on a ride with a battery reading 30% at the start so I don't know what the readings would be on discharge, or if it would keep discharging even if the registered charge was 0%. Perhaps something to try while I've got a spare, fully charged battery with me. Regarding leaving the batteries on charge when they are fully charged, I always do this and have had no problem. I believe the circuit cuts into low power at full charge as there is no heat coming from the charger then, but the readout on the battery remains bright.
I sometimes wonder if we should somehow summarise all our batteries, chargers and bikes, adding any personal experience as well. So that when problems arise, maybe the data may suggest a good fix! We would really need most members to add their data freely, to make it worthwhile.
What say the majority here? Yes or no?
Regards to all
Andy
D
Deleted member 25121
Guest
There are known issues with a batch of v2 batteries, for a while they were difficult to buy from cycle republic (sole distributor), they may still be... The local shop order bits and what comes in isn't what was ordered. Great front-end service, **** back-end service.
They have many complaints, it's only one batch of bad batch of v2 batteries, inside knowledge, but not nice if it's you.
However, I now have two v.1 (with four led display) from my 2nd hand really old (but mint) Gtech. A v2 that came with my Gtech mtb + a 2nd battery that was difficult to order.
I bought a v2 battery holder for my v1 e-bike so I can now swap batteries between the e-bike + mtb version.
The problem with the v1's was a poorly designed retention mech, it's easy to break the handle on the battery and four leds were fairly difficult to see in daylight, but the batteries themselves are really solid.
The v2's led screen display is easier to see and gives a fair reading of battery left but it doesn't drop linearly. The first few % are burned through very quickly, this gives a good idea of the battery health. Both types like to be treated properly (or at least fairly). The only real way to do that it is to have a second battery. Keep the first charged up and always use the maximum of the battery before swapping to the 2nd.
Just don't expect the rated range. after a while, it does go down, but not anymore than I'd expect out of a really good laptop battery over time, but its over generous to start with especially in 'High' all the time
Real usage on hills is more like half that if you ride it lazily, you know pedal to the whole time at a certain cadence that kicks the power out the most with the least effort
If your battery is acting weird it all depends upon where you bought your bike, Gtech or Cycle Republic. Good luck if it's Cycle Republic, you probably need it. If its Gtech ask for a replacement if it's acting like that.
The working product is basically totally solid, some **** happened to some of them, that may be you
They have many complaints, it's only one batch of bad batch of v2 batteries, inside knowledge, but not nice if it's you.
However, I now have two v.1 (with four led display) from my 2nd hand really old (but mint) Gtech. A v2 that came with my Gtech mtb + a 2nd battery that was difficult to order.
I bought a v2 battery holder for my v1 e-bike so I can now swap batteries between the e-bike + mtb version.
The problem with the v1's was a poorly designed retention mech, it's easy to break the handle on the battery and four leds were fairly difficult to see in daylight, but the batteries themselves are really solid.
The v2's led screen display is easier to see and gives a fair reading of battery left but it doesn't drop linearly. The first few % are burned through very quickly, this gives a good idea of the battery health. Both types like to be treated properly (or at least fairly). The only real way to do that it is to have a second battery. Keep the first charged up and always use the maximum of the battery before swapping to the 2nd.
Just don't expect the rated range. after a while, it does go down, but not anymore than I'd expect out of a really good laptop battery over time, but its over generous to start with especially in 'High' all the time
Real usage on hills is more like half that if you ride it lazily, you know pedal to the whole time at a certain cadence that kicks the power out the most with the least effort If your battery is acting weird it all depends upon where you bought your bike, Gtech or Cycle Republic. Good luck if it's Cycle Republic, you probably need it. If its Gtech ask for a replacement if it's acting like that.
The working product is basically totally solid, some **** happened to some of them, that may be you
Can you please let me know where I can buy the V2 battery holder from to upgrade my V1 ebike to take a V2 battery, thanks
Brands - Gtech | Halfords UK
Gtech e-bikes use a mixture of cutting edge technology and intelligent design to change cycling completely, giving you that extra push when you need it most.
www.cyclerepublic.com
Thanks for the link, I'm not sure if its just that part that is required, I really need to look at a V2 battery to see what the difference is. I dont know anyone who has one though. Its possible that the base of the battery is different where it sits in the cradle?Brands - Gtech | Halfords UK
Gtech e-bikes use a mixture of cutting edge technology and intelligent design to change cycling completely, giving you that extra push when you need it most.
Thanks anyway, more investigation required.
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