gtech battery connector replacement (esent)
- Thread starter jamesdaintee
- Start date
That's what happens when you connect a battery that's switched on. If it has a switch, always switch off before you connect.
That connector looks OK to me. It's the other side that would be damaged and preventing a good connection. The other side normally has standard removeable contacts, which you might be able to get from a standard battery connector.
Those batteries and the receiver are full of silicone sealant, so you have to do lots of digging to get at anything.
If your battery is getting tired, it might be time to replace it with a standard Chinese one and controller, which will be cheaper in the long run.
That connector looks OK to me. It's the other side that would be damaged and preventing a good connection. The other side normally has standard removeable contacts, which you might be able to get from a standard battery connector.
Those batteries and the receiver are full of silicone sealant, so you have to do lots of digging to get at anything.
If your battery is getting tired, it might be time to replace it with a standard Chinese one and controller, which will be cheaper in the long run.
okay thankyou so it is the battery that is the issue is there anyway to replace the broken part of the battery as the run time is still good when it does connect because id rather not buy a new battery if its avoidable
What damage? It is still all metal, and no melted plastic so all you need to do is clean up the surface both on those spades and inside the socket they fit into, and ensure there is enough contact pressure. A little bit of bend and twist works wonders.
And as said above, turn it off during insertion and removal.
Check the sockets carefully, as the metal in there may be rather more flimsy than those spades.
And as said above, turn it off during insertion and removal.
Check the sockets carefully, as the metal in there may be rather more flimsy than those spades.
sand paper or a file can clean off both the prongs pictured and the on bike contacts too, you may also need to re-bend the on bike contacts carefully too if they have been damaged by the sparking. In future if your battery has an on/off switch, turn off the battery before connecting to the bike to avoid further damage sparking and pops.
this is the bottom of the battery that connects to the bike i have gave a clean using a small brush and still no connection i have also filled down the on bike connectors
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Only if you are confident and careful, because you must not short out terminals, you could remove the panel using a torx screwdriver and see what is going on underneath.
I would play around with effectively an extension to the wiring, using male and female spade terminals, so that I had visibility and access directly to all the battery and socket terminals and see if that told me anything.
i took the bottom off unscrewed the screws onthe circuit board however it feels there is something still holding the circuit board in as it wont pull away
indeed it looks as if the right most socket is missing 1/2 its connecting springs
Frequently with 4x battery terminals 2x feed the +ve and 2x feed the -ve, And these are not always connected at the bike side with only one of each terminal employed. .. SO If your battery provides power via all 4x of its terminals But the inner 2x connectors on the bike are not connected a very easy-ish fix may be possible by simply soldering a bridge between the 2 x right side terminals on the bike side. (EDIT LEFT SIDE?... WHICHEVER IS APPROPRIATE..)
Try
1) testing the battery terminals to see if all 4x do output battery voltage and if so-
2) open up the bike side and seeing which terminals are connected?? AND FIX ACCORDINGLY.
to be honest im not clued up enough on stuff like this and dont have a soldering iron so i think my best bet is just to remove everything but rear motor and try get a new battery and controller
Only do work your happy doing.. though if you take a screwdriver to the bike controller terminals as you remove it, what i am trying to convey may make more sense?? a (£10 soldering iron could be useful down the rd too )
I have bought batteries from greenlance.co.uk - they always have a seasonal 10-20% off offer so check if not flash screened in your face.
And my yose-power supplied battery 18 months + old is still as good as new.
For replacement controllers KT brand are popular upgrades from restricted stock controllers and topbikekit are a chinese seller the forum has had good results from so far?
Woosh would be a recommended UK supplier of ebikes and spares/kits you can converse with email/phone to confirm an orders requirements.
While concealed controllers like your original stashed in the battery mount or elsewhere are available the more generic silver box type requiring a box or bag to house it will be the simplest upgrade.
ALWAYS buy a controller and its paird display TOGETHER! to ensure they can communicate with each other and be mindful of cheaper square wave controller ads that omit this aspect/feature
(sinewave - more expensive quieter/smoother? squarewave, cheaper, rougher output? )
I have bought batteries from greenlance.co.uk - they always have a seasonal 10-20% off offer so check if not flash screened in your face.
And my yose-power supplied battery 18 months + old is still as good as new.
For replacement controllers KT brand are popular upgrades from restricted stock controllers and topbikekit are a chinese seller the forum has had good results from so far?
Woosh would be a recommended UK supplier of ebikes and spares/kits you can converse with email/phone to confirm an orders requirements.
While concealed controllers like your original stashed in the battery mount or elsewhere are available the more generic silver box type requiring a box or bag to house it will be the simplest upgrade.
ALWAYS buy a controller and its paird display TOGETHER! to ensure they can communicate with each other and be mindful of cheaper square wave controller ads that omit this aspect/feature
(sinewave - more expensive quieter/smoother? squarewave, cheaper, rougher output? )
i have found a soldering iron and will get help from my dad as he knows more about electrics however after taking apart the bike connector we are wondering if instead of soldering a bridge across could this be done internally by connecting the wires i have sent a picture of for example red and yellow (red is where the broken connector on battery plugs into)
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NO NO NO!!
Do not solder anything together. All four ways on your connector are in use, there are no spare or duplicated ones. The small wires on the middle two ways are for communications between battery and rest of system. Do not connect them to the main + and - wires.
You didn't read what they actually said
"Frequently with 4x battery terminals 2x feed the +ve and 2x feed the -ve, And these are not always connected at the bike side with only one of each terminal employed. .. SO If your battery provides power via all 4x of its terminals But the inner 2x connectors on the bike are not connected a very easy-ish fix may be possible by simply soldering a bridge between the 2 x right side terminals on the bike side. (EDIT LEFT SIDE?... WHICHEVER IS APPROPRIATE..)"
Note the line that says
" SO If your battery provides power via all 4x of its terminals But the inner 2x connectors on the bike are not connected a very easy-ish fix may be possible by simply soldering a bridge between the 2 x right side terminals on the bike side."
Correct.
Most batteries are what is called 'generic', and they only use two pins, for the red+ and black- big fat wires.
Some of that type of battery despite only needing two pins have a four pin connector, and either leave the middle two pins unused, or use two pins each for red+ and black-.
Your battery is not like that, the middle pins are clearly in use so clearly you cannot use them as an alternative to the damaged pin.