GSM / S12S / LCD3 / 36V - error code 03-INFO

[pn_day]

Hi all
I've got some issues with setting up my GSM crank drive motor - almost certainly down to my ignorance. Tony from Woosh has already been very helpful with other questions that I had.

All is connected apart from the speed sensor (I have to extend the cable).

Unfortunately, I now have an error code 3 - motor hall signal abnormality (when testing with throttle, or with walk mode).

I'm a bit lost how to troubleshoot hall cables so was hoping for some tips on diagnostic techniques.

I do have a multimeter, along with one of the cheap ebike diagnostic kits from BMSbattery (which I've never used!)

Any tips would be very gratefully received.

Thanks
Phil


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[anotherkiwi]

Sorry, I don't have that controller I have the S06S. I fried the PAS by plugging it into the wrong JST connector but it went POP! so I had no problem diagnosing...

 

[pn_day]

Sorry, I don't have that controller I have the S06S. I fried the PAS by plugging it into the wrong JST connector but it went POP! so I had no problem diagnosing...

I think they are very similar - if it's not too much trouble, could you share your P and C settings? Thanks

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[Woosh]

I'm a bit lost how to troubleshoot hall cables so was hoping for some tips on diagnostic techniques.

the quickest way is to test with a multitester when the motor is connected and powered.

1. Gain access to the Hall sensor wires, typically

red: 5V
black: ground
yellow, green, blue: Hall signals

Switch on the LCD.
Hook the multitester to check the between ground and the signal wires, one at a time, start with yellow.
Turn the chainring backward (anticlockwise) to force the rotor to move.
You should see the voltage change from 0 to 5V then back to 0 again. If it's pulsing then it's not dead.
Move to the gren then the blue.

 

[pn_day]

the quickest way is to test with a multitester
...

Thanks very much for the help

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[anotherkiwi]

I think they are very similar - if it's not too much trouble, could you share your P and C settings? Thanks

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I thought I had posted them somewhere on my thread but no They are somewhere on the forum of that I am sure but where

Lucky you! In an e-mail to Woosh:

My settings for the LCD 3 with the S06SC Sine Wave Controller for Central Motor:

P1 - 160 (motor gear reduction ratio × number of rotor magnet poles, I winged this one)
P2 - 1
P3 - 1
P4 - 0
P5 - 0

C1 - 03 *** (03 isn't listed as a value in the LCD 3 manual but it works)
C2 - 0
C3 - 1
C4 - 0
C5 - 10
C6 - 1
C7 - 0
C8 - 0
C9 - 0
C10 - n
C11 - 0
C12 - 4
C13 - 0
C14 - 3

*** I have a KUNTENG V12 external PAS here and the setting for that is 07 for standard

 

[pn_day]

...
My settings for the LCD 3 with the S06SC Sine Wave Controller for Central Motor:
...
P1 - 160
...

Perfect. Thanks AK.

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[Deleted member 4366]

The most likely cause of the error code is that you have the wires in the wrong connection sequence in either the throttle or the PAS connector. Check that you have red to red and black to black or whatever the colours are. If there's heatshrink over the back of the connector, you have to peel it back to see the colours.

 

[harrys]

If your kit has the round 9 pin motor connector, then the problem is the connector isn't fully seated or <yikes> you forced it together with the arrows not matching. I've seen this.

If it uses bullets for the three phase wires, and a 2x3 6 position connector for the phase wires, follow d8veh's advice and check the wire colors. Some kits, I see, give you a motor cable with the pins soldered up, but not inserted into the connector. I had to push them in. One of the Hall pins did not lock into the connector. It came out and I got the 03 error too.

 

[pn_day]

Thanks all for the very helpful tips. Turned out to be the 9 pin round connector - I'd not pushed it far enough in. Now working.

Thanks again
Phil

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[pn_day]

Thanks all for the very helpful tips. Turned out to be the 9 pin round connector - I'd not pushed it far enough in. Now working.

Thanks again
Phil

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I spoke too soon. It is now all working on throttle, but the PAS mode is not working (currently trying to use the internal PAS on the GSM).
Anyone have any clever thoughts?

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[Woosh]

Phil,
Your motor works on throttle but not on PAS:
that means the Hall signals are good, the PAS signal is not.
The PAS connector has 4 wires:
red: 5V
black: ground
yellow: Hall1 output
green: Hall2 output
You can use either yellow or green to connect to your controller.

You can test the PAS sensor with a multi-tester, the same way you would with the Hall sensors. Check the voltage between ground (black wire) and signal (yellow and green).
Switch on the LCD. Rotate the cranks clockwise trigger a response.

 

[pn_day]

Thanks for the clear directions. Much to my confusion, probing signal and ground on the PAS connector gives regular 5v pulses.

It must therefore be a connector setting problem (S12S with LCD3). Back to the manual...

I had already set it for a 12 magnet sensor (C1=03). My settings are below.
P1 160
P2 1
P3 1
P4 0
P5 12
C1 03
C2 0
C3 1
C4 0
C5 08
C6 1
C7 1
C8 0
C9 0
C10 n
C11 0
C12 4

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[Woosh]

a typical error is to wrongly identify the 5V and signal wire of the pedal sensor connector on the controller. When that happens, the PAS seems to be dead.
Unplug the PAS first.
Check only the controller side.
Check with a multitester, the 5V wire reads slightly LOWER voltage than the signal wire.
The safe way is to set your tester to beep on short circuit, check what you think is the 5V on the PAS connector (usually red) - it should beep when you connect to the 5V pin on the speed sensor.

 

[pn_day]

Ok.

On the controller side I have brown (should be 5V), yellow (should be signal) and black (ground).

Black to brown gives 4.2V (on an old analogue multimeter - numbers may be slightly off)
Black to yellow gives 3.8V

On the continuity check, do I leave PAS unplugged, and no power on? Confused as I got nothing.

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[Woosh]

Phil,

please check the continuity between brown on the PAS connector to red or brown on the speed sensor. If it beeps then brown is definitely the 5V line thus yellow is the signal wire.
If it does not beep, then check the continuity between yellow on the PAS connector to red or brown on the speed sensor. If it beeps then yellow is definitely the 5V line thus brown is the signal wire.

 

[pn_day]

Phil,

please check the continuity between brown on the PAS connector to red or brown on the speed sensor. If it beeps then brown is definitely the 5V line thus yellow is the signal wire.
If it does not beep, then check the continuity between yellow on the PAS connector to red or brown on the speed sensor. If it beeps then yellow is definitely the 5V line thus brown is the signal wire.

Thanks again
Brown/red on PAS to red on speed sensor beeps.
So brown/red is 5V.
Yellow on PAS to red does not.

I think this means that yellow on PAS is the signal line, so connection is correct.
Rather lost!

 

[Woosh]

if yellow is pulsing when you turn the cranks then the controller does not respond to the PAS signal. You will need to borrow another PAS sensor to test the controller with it.
I can lend you one if you are stuck.

 

[pn_day]

if yellow is pulsing when you turn the cranks then the controller does not respond to the PAS signal. You will need to borrow another PAS sensor to test the controller with it.
I can lend you one if you are stuck.

That's very kind - but I do have an external one from my old kit. Presumably I should just temporarily attach to front crank and connect in place of the internal PAS?

 

[Woosh]

That's very kind - but I do have an external one from my old kit. Presumably I should just temporarily attach to front crank and connect in place of the internal PAS?

You only need to test that the controller still works with an external PAS.
Put the PAS disc on a pen and use the pen to rotate the disc in front of the sensor head.
If the head has an LED, the LED should flash and the motor starts.

I think you already found out that the built in PAS is still pulsing so it is more likely a problem with connection or parameters for the controller.
AK fitted an external PAS to his GSM. You can do the same in case the built-in pedal sensor gave up the ghost but but you'd need to file off a bit of the left crank to make room for the disc.