Greenway Cross City

[USPostalService]

Plenty of room in the rear for much wider tyre, 650b rims ,think the front is 1,1/8 fork unit again easy to upgrade and plenty of room for wider rim in std forks which are a little on the soft side.

Thanks, I had a look too and there is a wire on the back of the motor that could prevent the largest tyre sizes, however looking at mountain bikes outside I realized there should be enough room for cross country trail bike tyres (XC) - I doubt fatter tyres would be worse (for efficiency and speed) than badly aligned disc brakes on the current tyre size.

Heavy duty forks are fairly important to my style of riding, although the suntour NEX forks are much nicer to ride on than the fixed aluminium forks I have on my road bike. The roads in my area could probably cause concussion for a roadie.

I think it might be interesting to account for the possible change in speed for smaller wheels too, that would allow more options for tyres and forks. The hall magnet could be aligned to the same distance on the smaller wheels.

 

[USPostalService]

I think it might be interesting to account for the possible change in speed for smaller wheels too,

The hall sensor seems to be mounted on a hole in the frame, so the velocity change for smaller wheels would have to be performed via the computer

 

[USPostalService]

sliding the magnet up the spoke to calibrate might have unwanted side effects if the magnet is too near the center. And there is the problem of having a vehicle at 25 kph as an reference to measure the bikes velocity.

This issue would also affect larger tyres. I have seen the menu screen (from pressing info twice) although I pressed by accident and it reset to normal quickly. I'll have a look at the options a bit later.

 

[Ultrafunkula]

Thanks, I had a look too and there is a wire on the back of the motor that could prevent the largest tyre sizes, however looking at mountain bikes outside I realized there should be enough room for cross country trail bike tyres (XC) - I doubt fatter tyres would be worse (for efficiency and speed) than badly aligned disc brakes on the current tyre size.

Heavy duty forks are fairly important to my style of riding, although the suntour NEX forks are much nicer to ride on than the fixed aluminium forks I have on my road bike. The roads in my area could probably cause concussion for a roadie.

I think it might be interesting to account for the possible change in speed for smaller wheels too, that would allow more options for tyres and forks. The hall magnet could be aligned to the same distance on the smaller wheels.

Just go into sub menu and change the wheel size they are all in there ready to just click on from the drop down menu.

 

[Ultrafunkula]

Thanks, I had a look too and there is a wire on the back of the motor that could prevent the largest tyre sizes, however looking at mountain bikes outside I realized there should be enough room for cross country trail bike tyres (XC) - I doubt fatter tyres would be worse (for efficiency and speed) than badly aligned disc

It is quite easy to re route the pick up cable that comes out of the rear of the motor to go round the outside of the rear stay rather than the inside , I think putting it down the inside where all the crud and danger of it catching was oversight on building these units for neatness of hiding cable inside on its way to the cable tie bracket underneath.
Unbolt the sensor, snip the cable tie carefully , route the cable down the outside , re cable tie and bolt sensor back on.

 

[anotherkiwi]

The hall sensor seems to be mounted on a hole in the frame, so the velocity change for smaller wheels would have to be performed via the computer

It always is set by the LCD, the magnet can go where you want on the spoke because it is only counting number of revolutions per minute. That is why speed/distance is always off with these cheap units where you can't set the exact tyre diameter.

 

[USPostalService]

thanks, yeah that is all great, decided not to mess with it too much. I'll be fine with current tyres for a while. The suspension and brake service will probably be my first upgrade. I dug up the manual again and had a look at the options - very nice.

 

[USPostalService]

Not sure how to "fix" a broken mid drive, probably best to stick a BBS02 in there and under-volt the motor when the max drive fails.

 

[anotherkiwi]

Unbolt, bolt in replacement. It will only ever fail if you stall it. All the other bits can be changed (bearings, controller, clutch...). Motors will be on the spares market when there are enough complete bikes sold.

 

[Recy]

Has there been any developments heard regarding fitting a throttle to the MaxDrive?

 

[Ultrafunkula]

Not sure how to "fix" a broken mid drive, probably best to stick a BBS02 in there and under-volt the motor when the max drive fails.

Easy to fix, Aliexpress and a few others at alibaba now selling just motors ,or wait 6 months then bolt in the Max Ultra Drive,size difference is 2mm Lunacycles are testing the beastie prior to release to find any weak points. Ultra drive being released for the power crazy yanks.
UK and the Aussies get the tame one , euro get the intermediate that is unwittingly in our Greenways tuned down in the settings.

 

[Nealh]

PSWPower are selling them on their site about $500.

 

[Nealh]

Not sure how to "fix" a broken mid drive, probably best to stick a BBS02 in there and under-volt the motor when the max drive fails.

Not possible as their is no BB to take bbsxx.

 

[Recy]

A few folk on here were in the process of upgrading their battery, how is that going?
Buddy had done approx 100 miles on the orig battery now, having tweaked the controller to 14a, current decay @ 7 and keep current @ 75%.
He's a 100kg feller and quite fit with it - although no road-racer he keeps a rather fast cadence to suit the motors characteristic.
His feedback is that he just ignores the sag indicated on the display, rides pretty much consistently at assist 3 and uses 5 from time to time. Plenty of pretty hefty hills and very little flat. Gets 30 miles from a charge before he calls it a day - although there is still a bar left on the display as he rides those hills - recovering to 3 bars once home and stationary.
A 30q or GA 17ah 36v is definitely going to improve on all that and I'm sure we'd all be interested to know how much & what controller set up is in use.
Still pretty good for the Samsung 10.4 ah orig though - you think?

 

[Ultrafunkula]

That particular test will have to wait

On my last ride, towards the end the left pedal started to wobble.

On checking, it looked like it had worked slightly loose in the crank arm - the threads are now pretty messed up - what on earth do they make these cranks from - chocolate? 50 miles that lasted - first time I've ever had that on any bike. I guess it is my fault for not checking the torque - but do I need to do that before every ride?

Been out for 10 miler today , decided to check crank arm after a couple of miles Noticed what I initially thought as bearing movement but on getting my trusty Allen keys out, sure enough the left hand crank arm bolt was loose, tightened up all seems good but a bit worried if I overtighten and strip the threads , tested at end of ride and all seems good , Battery guage on display on 3/4 full after initial ride of it fluctuating a lot it settled down to read more sensibly, battery itself showing as down just 1 bar of its own display.

 

[redcup1999]

A few folk on here were in the process of upgrading their battery, how is that going?

My 30q battery pack has arrived from Jimmy (about a week after placing the order which is pretty good for anything custom built).

Looks good to me but not been able to use it yet - I will give an update as soon as I can, but don't think it will be for at least another week :-(

 

[Recy]

How do you plan to wire it in Red.
Existing controller wires to batt or new batt wires to controller?

Also, anyone noticed the unaccessed indicators on the display at power-up?
Range, Wh, Ah, V etc.
Would be nice to populate them but I suspect that's for another controller than the one fitted.

 

[Ultrafunkula]

How do you plan to wire it in Red.
Existing controller wires to batt or new batt wires to controller?

Also, anyone noticed the unaccessed indicators on the display at power-up?
Range, Wh, Ah, V etc.
Would be nice to populate them but I suspect that's for another controller than the one fitted.

Brighton plugged and tried the colour display on the bike and it works perfectly,with some if not all those functions, I'm sure he will be along to confirm.After my battery arrives from Jimmy , I'll be purchasing one for my bike.

 

[brightonebikes]

Brighton plugged and tried the colour display on the bike and it works perfectly,with some if not all those functions, I'm sure he will be along to confirm.After my battery arrives from Jimmy , I'll be purchasing one for my bike.

Hello. Here I am!
Yes, it all functioned in the work stand, but I'm yet to road test with one fitted. I'll get round to it soon.

 

[Recy]

Interesting, yes I recall reading it now - so it seems to be the case that the controller is sending this extra info but the supplied display is set to ignore it. 'Crippleware' can sometimes be overcome with firmware upgrade if it can be obtained.
Buddy also noticed that the extended program area of the display (after the code input) has a final section with extensive battery diagnostics etc that is also unpopulated. Possibly related crippleware?