GreenEdge cs2

[James Bruce]

I bought the CS2 a few weeks ago and have already clocked up 87 miles on it.
My usual route is about 12 miles long, which includes a couple of very steep 2 mile long hills.
This route will exhaust the battery down to 1 bar as long as there isn't a headwind.
Another route I like is nearer 20 miles, but only has 1 hill at the end. My fault for choosing where I live in Wales.
So I guess in the real world 15-20 miles is about the expected duration.
The bike is fab. Well worth it. Previously I had a Coyote foldable electric bike from Halfords, which is also very good, but I do feel a little silly on it. This one I feel better about myself.
Not tried delimiting it, as there is no real need. I may one day change the gearing as I get less reliant on the power, and my knees get more used to the exercise.View attachment 13339

I've fount that without restriction the bike still goes 15-16 mph (I weigh 90ish kg). 21-22 if you pedel at a reasonable rate. The main benefit is that you don't get the annoying jolt that happens at 15.5 when the motor cuts out. So far I've done just under 400 miles since mid December 2015 with no issues accept the chain squeeking a bit. That's definitely because 300 or so of those miles were without pedeling at all (yes I'm lazy). But the no cutoff is a much better experience. And the motor and the battery seem pretty well matched so I'd consider de restricting just for that because it really made me enjoy it a lot more. In your position I'd do it but have the bike on a low setting. I use 5 (again..lazy). If it dies for some reason I'll be sure to post.

 

[Noob75]

Hey All,

I've had one of these for around a year now, original forks still going strong on it but you called it on the derailleur arm, the idler pulley sprocket is flappy as buggery now, time for a replacement.
I have one of the older versions now, I guess, as mine doesn't have the shiny control unit, it's the version with the two buttons and an LED display for the battery that I have.
One big problem I have encountered is that the battery mount unit does not stand up to a lot of moderate punishment.
I cycle the same 30 mile route everyday on a canal path with varied surfaces, moderate to severe surfaces at worst.
This has loosened the restraining bolts on the battery mount a few times, no biggie though as a quick tighten with an Allen key sorts that, what I did notice very recently because of intermittent power failure is that the two prongs in the bottom 'cup' of the battery mount do not handle the bumps very well, one of which has been noticeably pushed into the flat sole of the cup by about half it's length, I'm planning on stripping it down to see if there is a way to push it back to it's former position without doing any damage but it isn't an overnight job by the looks of things, I'll try to post some images so you can see what I'm talking about.
Long and short, try take it easier on big paving drops or potholes and keep an eye to the mount bolts as part of your routine maintenance.

 

[Noob75]

hey all,
so i finally got round to stripping it down, photos to follow as they are on my tablet.
The connector pins are a weird little device, they are spring loaded so that they have their own shock absorbing built in, I'm guessing in my case it was not enough as the damaged pin connector on mine is, what's the technical term? oh that's right, F**ked, the 'cup' was pretty easy to remove and strip down, only a little torque wrench set and some precision screwdrivers required.
The upside is that the connectors on the cabling are pretty decent, colour coded in some cases and on the whole designed to be watertight on their own, the only one that i had to cut any heat shrunk wrapping away from was the main power line that runs from the battery mount along the underside of the tube up to the control unit.
I'll try to follow up with the photos attached and explain what i found out in that post, for just now I am off to see if i can source a new 'cup', fingers crossed I can just buy the plastic support part with the pins and not have to buy the whole unit with the electrics involved.
If anyone has any good links to parts for this particular model I'd very much appreciate them.
cheers.

 

[Slowplow]

So after a very small amount of digging i figured out de-restricting this bike's (green edge CS2) top speed is so easy it's beyond laughable. The instructions on how to do it come WITH THE BIKE. Though i doubt they noticed. If you have the version with the back-lit display and 3 buttons to the left of it can be done in under a minute. Power it on. double press the power button and you're into the options menu so to speak. press power to cycle trough the options until you see PS and 0000 at the bottom of the screen. Use + - and the power buttons to enter 1919 (default password) and press power to confirm. you can then use the + to change from 25 to 45 kph or lower if the bike is for a younger person. i just checked and my bike now goes 20 mph with the throttle. Clearly limited by their motor/battery. I'm going to change it back because i don't know the long term effects on the battery but it's a joke that all i did was follow the instructions that came with the bike to achieve this. It wan't even hidden. there is a "change top speed" part and all i did was what it said. Need proof. NO PROBLEM:

Hi james great post BTW, I have the LED version of the display unit and want to upgrade to the LCD version. Can you confirm the model of your display? i have a feeling its a KT lcd01 but would appreciate verification.

 

[James Bruce]

Sorry Slowplow i missed your question. I'll have a look later today and let you know.

 

[James Bruce]

Hi james great post BTW, I have the LED version of the display unit and want to upgrade to the LCD version. Can you confirm the model of your display? i have a feeling its a KT lcd01 but would appreciate verification.

I'm not sure which part of this is the model but the back says:

AP7
450U B0448 MES1.0
V1.30W 2015100079

 

[Michael Rose]

So after a very small amount of digging i figured out de-restricting this bike's (green edge CS2) top speed is so easy it's beyond laughable. The instructions on how to do it come WITH THE BIKE. Though i doubt they noticed. If you have the version with the back-lit display and 3 buttons to the left of it can be done in under a minute. Power it on. double press the power button and you're into the options menu so to speak. press power to cycle trough the options until you see PS and 0000 at the bottom of the screen. Use + - and the power buttons to enter 1919 (default password) and press power to confirm. you can then use the + to change from 25 to 45 kph or lower if the bike is for a younger person. i just checked and my bike now goes 20 mph with the throttle. Clearly limited by their motor/battery. I'm going to change it back because i don't know the long term effects on the battery but it's a joke that all i did was follow the instructions that came with the bike to achieve this. It wan't even hidden. there is a "change top speed" part and all i did was what it said. Need proof. NO PROBLEM:

Hi,

I've had one of these models for a couple of months now, does the method above de-restrict the assisted speed when pedaling also?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[yaffa]

I'm going to there warehouse on Saturday. I have checked and I can test ride the bike, along with the powacycle Salisbury, which was my other choice. They are reasonably local to me, so if anything were to go wrong I haven't got to post it back.
Does anyone think the Salisbury is good electric bike? I am getting the bike to do a 7 mile round trip commute to work. The reason I want the electric is because the last mile coming home is a steep uphil gradient.
The other bike I was considering was the Cyclamatic P Plus.
Any comments?
I don't want to spend more than £700.

Hi they are very nice down at their Sussex warehouse. It's a good place for a test ride - tarmac drive with a bit of a hill near the road end. Just brought my bike from them.

 

[StuartB]

[it's a joke that all i did was follow the instructions that came with the bike

Hi , can you post a JPG of the instructions, I want to limit the surge in power at low speeds as I use a lot of crowded and shared pedestrian crossings and have had a couple of near misses when I forgot to wind the wick down to "1". Thanks

 

[marzy]

Is this the one?

http://www.aptdevelop.com/index.php?g=portal&m=articles&a=index&id=137

 

[James Bruce]

Hi,

I've had one of these models for a couple of months now, does the method above de-restrict the assisted speed when pedalling also?

Thanks,
Mike

sorry, i haven't logged in for a while. Yes, it completely stops the bike's assistance from turning off.

 

[StuartB]

Marzy,

Yes that is the one.

 

[PH001]

I bought a CS2 two months ago and it's going OK, but every time I charge it up it sparks. That is with everything switched off and the battery off the bike. Ebikes "think" this is OK, but surely it should not do that. It could be dangerous near inflammable substances.
Can anyone out there tell me if they have a similar problem

Have you tried turning the charger on first before plugging it into the battery? In my experience this results in much less sparking as the voltages between the battery and the charger are much closer together. The problem with plugging in a charger that is switched off is that you have a large voltage differential between it and the battery (charger is at zero volts and battery is probably around 30V or so). It is this voltage difference that gives you the 'crack' and the spark as the battery actually charges the output capacitors up in the charger. On my Cyclotricity Stealth the battery switch doesn't disconnect it from the charger port so it makes no difference if that battery is on or off with respect to charging.

 

[Slowplow]

Purchased the G2 about 2 years ago. Only two issues (faulty control unit & a faulty battery pack (after 1st year) which i had to send back to the company i bought it off. They were very helpful and replaced the control unit and swapped the battery over with another (which may have also been new). After a year at 15.5 mph i decided to upgrade. Purchased a Cyclotricity kit (£400) and built my own battery from the replacement bottle battery and other sourced lithium ion battery cells. I recommend this bike as its still going strong with upgrades and very fast. Top speed de-restricted mode now hit 32mph on flat 20-25mph up steep hills. I'm happy with buying the G2 but would never buy a 350w again.

 

[Andy D]

I'd never heard of the CS2 until today. Was tempted by GTech but not 100% sure as I don't like the idea of pedalling like crazy to go much over 15mph - Gearing would be a bonus there.

Read the below on their site though:

"The Greenedge CS2 also has an independant throttle control whereby there is no need to pedal that is limited to 6km (4mph) per hour in line with EU law for 'on road use', however can be delimited to 25km (15.5mph) per hour for strictly off road use - please contact us for details of eligibility"

Is this correct? 4mph on throttle? I'd not hear of this before - But I always imagined you could do 15mph on throttle? No?

Reading your helpful http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/electric-bike-guides/uk-electric-bike-law/ section I see the below:

(This is entirely separate to ‘walk assist mode’ throttles that power the bike to a 6kmh top limit i.e. walking speed, to help you push the bike along, which are not affected by this law update.)

So this' Throttle' they're selling isn't REALLY a throttle is it? Be interested to hear any user's opinion on this.

Thanks

Andy

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The European standard for electric bicycles is EN 15194. It allows a throttle or button to make the motor turn without pedalling, but no faster than 6 km/h. There was a special sort of concession in the UK, where our regulators allowed a throttle that could give power up to 15.5 mph, but that concession has changed. It's now not allowed to sell a bike with a full-range throttle, though there's still some sort of concession that allows their use, so you can buy a bike with a 6km/h or no throttle and convert it to full-range throttle without penalty. Technically, the shops can't do that, but they can tell you how to do it yourself.

 

[anotherkiwi]

It won't get the bike up to 6kph with you on it or at least on the ones I have, the motor only draws about 50 W in walk along mode.

 

[Michael Rose]

A bit of an odd request but not that odd....

Has anyone got, or can take a picture of the rear wheel assembly on the GreenEdge CS2, I've had some new brake pads put on and not sure the guy has put the wheel back on properly with all the spacers in the correct places.

Would really appreciate a pic and post here

Thanks, Mike.

 

[ResidentGeek]

Hi all,

New here and just got a CS2 last month.. Loving it around where I am in West Yorkshire - even if it is a tad heavy so restricts me on some bridlepaths with stiles.

Anyone know if the CS2 is good for use with a bike trailer? I think it should be as it a regular cycle config really but though I would ask. If so would you recommend the type that connects to the saddle shaft or the rear hub?

Thanks

Mic

 

[Deleted member 4366]

The ones that fit to the rear hub don't fit directly because they,re designed for 10mm axles rather than your 12mm one. Easily solved by drilling the fixing plate.

The best trailers are the single wheeled Bob Yak clones that you can buy on Ebay for about £50 - £60. This type:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/sNEW-SINGLE-WHEEL-BICYCLE-BIKE-TRAILER-STORAGE-BAG-SHOCK-ABSORPTION-ONE-WHEEL-/302092999011?hash=item4656255963:g:i6MAAOSwmfhX79zH

Again you have to make adapters. You need two small plates about 2" long with a 12mm hole in one end and a 10 mm hole in the other. The trailer hooks onto two ball-pins that you bolt to the 10mm hole. The other end is fixed to your axle behind the wheel nuts. The ball-pins are designed to replace normal 10mm wheel nuts.