The testing is quite simple once you have the meter. It's just a question of following instructions, which you, thankfully, are very good at. That makes it a pleasure to help.
Gogo best gf700 strangely shut down
- Thread starter Hurcombe676
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Aww saneagle your the best, I shall reply when I have a multimeter tommorow, thank you so much for your help, you have literally been amazing
Hi saneagle, I've got a multimeter, just checked battery and it's showing 53.5 v and current is 30.7 don't have a clue what those mean, it's ment to be a 48v battery ?
I'm not to clued up on using a multimeter so I'm hoping you can give me learner instructions haha
Test one controller at a time with every connector disconnected. Set the meter to measure resistance (omega symbol). Put your red probe on the red battery wire's pin and the black probe on any of the three main motor wires (like the ones that melted). Take the reading. Repeat for the other two motor wires. Put your red probe on the black battery wire and repeat the three tests. That will give you 6 results.
Each group of three should be the same as each other, but the two groups might be different. The results should be in the range 3k to 25k, though what's important is that they're the same as the other two in the group.
If the reading continuously climbs or goes down, try reversing your probes to stabilise it, otherwise just record what it shows instantly.
Do the same for each controller to get 12 results. This test should show if the melting caused any damage, then we can go on to test that everything is working.
This test is for the MOSFETs in the controller, which are like very fast high frequency electronic switches that control the power to the motor. If they blow, their resistance changes.
Each group of three should be the same as each other, but the two groups might be different. The results should be in the range 3k to 25k, though what's important is that they're the same as the other two in the group.
If the reading continuously climbs or goes down, try reversing your probes to stabilise it, otherwise just record what it shows instantly.
Do the same for each controller to get 12 results. This test should show if the melting caused any damage, then we can go on to test that everything is working.
This test is for the MOSFETs in the controller, which are like very fast high frequency electronic switches that control the power to the motor. If they blow, their resistance changes.
I don't understand what you're saying. the results should be:
Controller 1
Red to blue =?
Red to green = ?
Red to yellow =?
Black to blue = ?
Black to green = ?
Black to yellow =?
Controller 2
Red to blue =?
Red to green = ?
Red to yellow =?
Black to blue = ?
Black to green = ?
Black to yellow =?
Sorry I worded it terribly, I get 7.6 on all controller 2 and using the red probe on the black power wire to said colours on controller 1 but using the red probe on the red power wire and then black on the colours I get zero reading whatsoever.
Hope this can narrow something down, I'm guessing controller 1 is clearly knackered but don't understand how the rear motor ( controller 2) don't work atall either ?
Controller 1
Red to blue = Nothing
Red to green = nothing
Red to yellow = nothing
Black to blue = 7.6
Black to green = 7.6
Black to yellow =7.6
Controller 2
Red to blue =7.6
Red to green = 7.6
Red to yellow =7.6
Black to blue = 7.6
Black to green = 7.6
Black to yellow =7.6
Hope this can narrow something down, I'm guessing controller 1 is clearly knackered but don't understand how the rear motor ( controller 2) don't work atall either ?
Controller 1
Red to blue = Nothing
Red to green = nothing
Red to yellow = nothing
Black to blue = 7.6
Black to green = 7.6
Black to yellow =7.6
Controller 2
Red to blue =7.6
Red to green = 7.6
Red to yellow =7.6
Black to blue = 7.6
Black to green = 7.6
Black to yellow =7.6
Last edited:
Was it controller 1 or 2 that had the burnt connectors?
When you say nothing, is it short circuit (0 Ohms) or open circuit (infinite Ohms)?
It is controller 1 the one that had the melted wires/ charred terminals.
I shall check in the morning regarding what comes up on the multimeter, I think it was just showing as 0. The display just stayed the same . And as soon as I used the red probe on the black power terminal it moved straight away up to 7.6
I shall check in the morning regarding what comes up on the multimeter, I think it was just showing as 0. The display just stayed the same . And as soon as I used the red probe on the black power terminal it moved straight away up to 7.6
When the probes are in the air, that's open circuit. When you touch them together, it's short circuit. You get a different number on the display for those two situations.
Sorry if I sound stupid but I'm confused, I thought I just put the setting on the omega symbol and put the red probe onto the red power wire and then the black on each of the blue, green, and yellow terminals ? Am I missing something? Sorry if it sounds daft I'm not too good with a multimeter
You tested right, but we need to interpret the results. Take your meter set to measure resistance (Omega for Ohms). Test 1: Hold the probes in the air and observe the reading. Test 2: Touch them together and observe the reading. Test 3: Put one on the controller's red battery wire and the other on each of the three motor phase wires (thick blue, green and yellow). Are the results are the same as with the probes open (test 1)or closed (test 2)?
Previously, you said,
"Controller 1
Red to blue = Nothing
Red to green = nothing
Red to yellow = nothing"
but the only time you get nothing on the display is when you switch it off. I'm assuming that you didn't switch it off for that test.
Sorry I should have clarified abit better, when on the ohms setting touching red probe to red power and then black to each of the thick wires the display stays the same saying 0 but then as soon as I put the red probe on the black power side and then the 3 colours I get 7.6 ? Does that make any sense ? If not I shall take a few photos in the morning to explain what I see, it may be easier, and thank you so much for your help your a absolute gentlemen.
OK, that means open circuit, which is unusual. What do you get when you touch the probes together?
If what you're saying is all correct, then the logical conclusion would be that you've blown the track on the pcb that goes from the battery wire to the MOSFETs. That might be an easy repair if you can solder.
To confirm that, you take the screws out of both ends of the controller and the ones in the side, then slide the contents out. Look at the back side of the pcb.
Funny enough I can solder I was a solder technician on Panasonic TV years ago but don't own a soldering iron anymore haha. I just seen a video on YouTube about a broken MOSFET.
When touching probes together I get about 10.0 when it settles
If I was to just replace the both controllers , it's £100 delivered for the pair. Would it just be plug and play so just connect the new ones and away we go or isit more to it ?
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