G51 controller ( Pedal Assist not working )

billyboya

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 10, 2016
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uk
I take it I am right when you said LHS. = left hand side you mean all the wires etc need tidying up. I’m wondering if I could fit a wide heat shrink tube over some to tidy it up
 

guerney

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 7, 2021
11,351
3,221
Most heatshrink doesn't shrink by enough to grip the wires either side of large connectors. I use 4:1 self-adhesive marine heat shrink on my bike. If I don't think the wide stuff will shrink enough, I also use sections of a smaller diameter for the wires, in steps, so that the wires are gripped and kept watertight. I wouldn't use 4:1 over that connector, because you may wish to disconnect it at some later stage, and marine heatshrink is difficult to remove because of heat adhesive. Perhaps use normal heat shrink plus a layer self-adhesive marine heat shrink on top? The first layer of normal heat shrink would make removal easier; prevent marine heat shrink from sticking to the connector.
 

billyboya

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 10, 2016
1,136
90
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uk
Most heatshrink doesn't shrink by enough to grip the wires either side of large connectors. I use 4:1 self-adhesive marine heat shrink on my bike. If I don't think the wide stuff will shrink enough, I also use sections of a smaller diameter for the wires, in steps, so that the wires are gripped and kept watertight. I wouldn't use 4:1 over that connector, because you may wish to disconnect it at some later stage, and marine heatshrink is difficult to remove because of heat adhesive. Perhaps use normal heat shrink plus a layer self-adhesive marine heat shrink on top? The first layer of normal heat shrink would make removal easier; prevent marine heat shrink from sticking to the connector.
Yeah see your point, I may just use cable ties, as you can just cut them off easy enough if need to.
 

guerney

Esteemed Pedelecer
Sep 7, 2021
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Yeah see your point, I may just use cable ties, as you can just cut them off easy enough if need to.
Perhaps wrap a bit of self-amalgamating rubber tape around the wires where you will be placing zipties? This stuff between the wide heatshrink and the wires, squeezed tightly with cable ties, could keep dirt and water out:


But... very tight zipties could break internal wires. Alternatively, you could wrap the whole connector with self-amalgamating rubber tape, or just around the wires at either end of the wide heatshrink, or over the heatshrink and wires. However you do it, hope you get it dirt and waterproof.
 
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billyboya

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 10, 2016
1,136
90
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uk
Perhaps wrap a bit of self-amalgamating rubber tape around the wires where you will be placing zipties? This stuff between the wide heatshrink and the wires, squeezed tightly with cable ties, could keep dirt and water out:


But... very tight zipties could break internal wires. Alternatively, you could wrap the whole connector with self-amalgamating rubber tape, or just around the wires at either end of the wide heatshrink, or over the heatshrink and wires. However you do it, hope you get it dirt and waterproof.

Yes I have used amalgamating tape before, stretches and clings to itself. I will use that over the zip ties, also I never fasten zipties around wires too tight.
 

Nealh

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 7, 2014
20,916
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West Sx RH
PAS 5 is insane on flat terrain, it really isn't needed . It jut eats up battery power so save it for the hills.

Be careful with cable ties as they can pinch inner very thin wires and short them or break them. I use velcro strap on all my wiring.
 

billyboya

Esteemed Pedelecer
Aug 10, 2016
1,136
90
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uk
PAS 5 is insane on flat terrain, it really isn't needed . It jut eats up battery power so save it for the hills.

Be careful with cable ties as they can pinch inner very thin wires and short them or break them. I use velcro strap on all my wiring.
Yes well on that old v12 PAS the only one which worked was 5, which was way too much on a flat, since i fitted this new pas all numbers work now 1 to 5.


Yes I will try that amalgamating tape over wires 1st then zip ties over take if required.

Actuially I do have a roll of velcro, with buckles, so can also use that too
 

manman94

Pedelecer
Dec 7, 2023
158
2
60
Netherlands
My Bafang controller isn't kicking in I have a LD-BG-AK007 22A 48V .
assist sensor is solid red then when I turn the pedals it begins blinking but no reaction from the motor,also when I press- for the walk mode function also nothing but on my display olut says in using 350w of power and wheel isn't even moving.
I have a 750c display on a 48v 21Ah 48v 750w Bafang rear hub motor G062.
Please anyone know why I'm getting a read out of power when I try to use the walk mode.
 

saneagle

Esteemed Pedelecer
Oct 10, 2010
6,785
3,132
Telford
Do not continue to give power to your motor when it doesn't move. Those 350w are turning into heat somewhere - either burning the motor or the controller or both. You can do it for one or two seconds to test, but no longer, and give it time to cool down before re-testing.

The cause of your problem is most likely a connection issue. Start with the one near the motor that must be in ALL THE WAY TO THE LINE, not just in tight. If that's not it, look at the other end of the cable where it connects to the controller.

While you're looking at the motor cable, check it for damage, especially where it comes out of the axle. Also, make sure that no cable-ties have sqished the cable.

There are other less likely causes of your problem. Do the above checks first, then we can go through the others.
 

manman94

Pedelecer
Dec 7, 2023
158
2
60
Netherlands
All connections are good I checked another controller no errors works perfectly,so I guess it's a case of getting the HALS connection wire sequence correct and the phase wires in the correct sequence.
Though it seems to turn smoothly I'm a little confused about the walk mode it's showing 11kmph when on my other controller it's a normal 6kph but maybe the wheel size is wrong correct me if I'm wrong.
In pedal assist 1 I see 20 to 30 watts of power while lifting of the ground that is so no excess wattage there it's the phasewires getting warm that's confusing me .