Front wheel hubs motors v's rear wheel

[Mussels]

Once happy with the hub in the frame, I respoked the hub into the 26" wheel

I cut all stainless steel spokes (dremel) and re-threaded the ends.

Threading spokes weakens them which is why some bike shops have special machines to roll the thread, if you find them snapping it will be worthwhile ordering some professionally done ones. Hopefully they will do the job fine and you won't need to.

 

[Northern Irelander]

Threading spokes weakens them which is why some bike shops have special machines to roll the thread, if you find them snapping it will be worthwhile ordering some professionally done ones. Hopefully they will do the job fine and you won't need to.

Thanks

Have read from many sources about rolled threads.

So far so good, they are 2mm spokes.

I have used 1.8mm (full length) spokes on a MTB for 15 years, not one problem having been through all sorts of rough courses and terrain.

If done right, the extra 0.2mm should compensate and should be even stronger than a rolled standard steel spoke.

I purchased a set of 100 spokes for £24.99, I have a few other projects in mind,

I don't see how bike shops can charge so much for a few spokes and I dont believe in paying such high prices.

 

[Mussels]

Thanks

Have read from many sources about rolled threads.

So far so good, they are 2mm spokes.

I have used 1.8mm (full length) spokes on a MTB for 15 years, not one problem having been through all sorts of rough courses and terrain.

If done right, the extra 0.2mm should compensate and should be even stronger than a rolled standard steel spoke.

I purchased a set of 100 spokes for £24.99, I have a few other projects in mind,

I don't see how bike shops can charge so much for a few spokes and I dont believe in paying such high prices.

Thicker spokes doesn't mean they are stronger, thinner spokes are more elastic and can cope with some forces better. That's why butted and double butted spokes are used where extra strength is required. The holes in the hub are also important, if they aren't just right then they can cause the spokes to snap. A rear hub motor means a lot more force than usual can go through the spokes and will show up weaknesses that are usually missed, I found out the hard way that some bike shops (at least 2 out of three for me) don't have the specialist knowledge needed when it comes to spokes.

 

[Northern Irelander]

Thicker spokes doesn't mean they are stronger, thinner spokes are more elastic and can cope with some forces better. That's why butted and double butted spokes are used where extra strength is required. The holes in the hub are also important, if they aren't just right then they can cause the spokes to snap. A rear hub motor means a lot more force than usual can go through the spokes and will show up weaknesses that are usually missed, I found out the hard way that some bike shops (at least 2 out of three for me) don't have the specialist knowledge needed when it comes to spokes.

I hear you and agree with you (partly )

There wasn't any substantial difference in the flange size of 1.8 and 2mm spokes. I can't do much about the hub holes as they are already drilled.

I take on board what you are saying but I stand over my work and completely confident that they are all sound.

If someone was to thread a spoke incorrectly they would actually be twisting the grain in the steel, could easily be done with an undersized die, or a split die that is tigthened too early. Many people don't back off when cutting and use an appropriate cutting oil.

Same could be said for not having the die square on the cutting surface

As for the threads, they are very good. I will take some shots with the scope and post when I get a chance.

After several weeks of hard usage (28 miles per day) all is good, some tensioning was done at around 100 miles, pretty much expected after building any wheel.

I would be more concerned with rolled threads on a wheel that is not tensioned correctly.