Front/Rear brake wear

[oyster]

Just replaced the rear brake pads on my bike - worn right down. This was something of an emergency as I had not realised that they were so worn. When I noticed poor braking and odd noises, I checked both front and rear. Front, I'd guess, about 1.5mm left. My usual routes have quite a bit of slow downhill where I do have to brake a lot - so not surprised that they have worn relatively quickly.

Good news: my first attempt at replacing pads went well. They are now working efficiently, no noises or apparent unevenness. So very happy.

Bad news: expensive! Have now ordered four pairs for the future from a recommended ebay supplier at only 50% more than this one pair.

Am I using my rear brakes too much/front not enough? If so, what is the best balance? Or is this huge unevenness usual?

 

[chris_n]

Am I using my rear brakes too much/front not enough? If so, what is the best balance? Or is this huge unevenness usual?

Yes, front brake is always the more efficient, when you brake more weight goes onto the front wheel so it has more traction. Its the same reason a lot of cars have front discs and rear drums or at least bigger discs on the front.

 

[oyster]

Yes, front brake is always the more efficient, when you brake more weight goes onto the front wheel so it has more traction. Its the same reason a lot of cars have front discs and rear drums or at least bigger discs on the front.

So on a long downhill, where I really don't want to go at high speed, should I just use front brakes? Or try to achieve some sort of 50:50 or 60:40 balance?

I think I have been very wary of applying front brakes hard and suddenly and flying over handlebars - and probably ending up using rear far too much. Where, obviously, first application at speed is where flying is likely.

 

[Fat Rat]

So on a long downhill, where I really don't want to go at high speed, should I just use front brakes? Or try to achieve some sort of 50:50 or 60:40 balance?

I think I have been very wary of applying front brakes hard and suddenly and flying over handlebars - and probably ending up using rear far too much. Where, obviously, first application at speed is where flying is likely.

I think you have to brake the way you feel comfortable
You are very unlikely to just fly over the bars if anything you would be more likely to lose the front wheel in gravel in a bend under braking which leads to the following line ,
"A lot depends on surface , conditions etc"
I wouldn't get hung up on a specific 50/50 or such like as conditions ,road surface etc they are always different and require slightly different braking actions

 

[soundwave]

heat kills the brake pads esp cheap ones as they wont last 5 mins otherwise i had to dump the stock rotors that come with my bike for these.

 

[oyster]

heat kills the brake pads esp cheap ones as they wont last 5 mins otherwise i had to dump the stock rotors that come with my bike for these.
View attachment 25560

They are the original Shimano items - as are the pads.

Are you suggesting I dump them? (Am perfectly happy to consider doing so if that is appropriate.) What ones have you fitted?

 

[peter.c]

I have to agree heat does kill pads, I now always fit 203mm to the front and the rear the original 160mm got to hot and warped but it was not due to speed its more to do with my size

 

[soundwave]

you want sinterd brake pads but if ur cooking the rotor still because of heat then they wont last much longer either.

 

[soundwave]

i got these from uber bikes but not fitted them yet as need to get some gallium

 

[Nealh]

I use front predominantly over the rear probably 60/40 or 70/30 bias and have good a feel for the bite point, if I feel the front starting to bite to hard or slip the pressure is released. Very rarely do I lock up either brake.
Using br- m445 brakes and b01s pads, I buy copy China pads and always carry a spare pair or two just in case of an issue when out. Not had any probs with cheap pads though obviously they wear a bit quicker but still get over 1k miles per set.
I use 180 rotors.

 

[oyster]

View attachment 25562
i got these from uber bikes but not fitted them yet as need to get some gallium

The ones I have just fitted are B01S resin pads (genuine Shimano). But the ones I have ordered for the next time are semi-metallic. Will have to see how they go!

 

[Sturmey]

I use my bike a lot in the hills and have worn 3 sets on the rear but am still on my second set on the front (in about 3000 miles). My bike has rear rack battery and rear hub and is heavy on the back.
I also note (with some alarm) that the rear rim is also worn. The wear line is starting to disappear and the rim brake surface is worn concave.

 

[oyster]

I have to agree heat does kill pads, I now always fit 203mm to the front and the rear the original 160mm got to hot and warped but it was not due to speed its more to do with my size

I'm no lightweight! And the Giant is not the lightest bike on the planet either.

 

[oyster]

I use my bike a lot in the hills and have worn 3 sets on the rear but am still on my second set on the front (in about 3000 miles). My bike has rear rack battery and rear hub and is heavy on the back.
I also note (with some alarm) that the rear rim is also worn. The wear line is starting to disappear and the rim brake surface is worn concave.

Looks like disc brakes do have some advantages - I wouldn't want to see my rims disappearing...

 

[peter.c]

The stainless steel cheap rotas seem to do ok appear to last just as long as the center locks and less than a third of the price happy days. The worst thing is sand trapped between rota and pad after a trip along the estuary wall pads and disk in the bin

 

[Trevormonty]

Looks like disc brakes do have some advantages - I wouldn't want to see my rims disappearing...

The ones I have just fitted are B01S resin pads (genuine Shimano). But the ones I have ordered for the next time are semi-metallic. Will have to see how they go!

Make sure your Discs support metallitic pads. Check if they have resin only stamped in discs. Alternatively look up discs part number, should be stamped on it. Being B01S pads I'll guess it cheap resin only disc.

 

[Fat Rat]

And to add to this
If you are running shimano you can buy finned pads which helps with cooling and some rt76 rotors I find them really good personally
You could obviously upgrade the size of the rotor as well just by having some adapters for the calliper which are around a fiver to buy
All this can make a massive difference especially larger rotors

 

[oyster]

And to add to this
If you are running shimano you can buy finned pads which helps with cooling and some rt76 rotors I find them really good personally
You could obviously upgrade the size of the rotor as well just by having some adapters for the calliper which are around a fiver to buy
All this can make a massive difference especially larger rotors

Appreciated - this and all the other replies on this thread. I did see finned pads and rather wondered how much a gimmick they are. You have answered!