Freego problems

[Deleted member 4366]

The first setting that you used was the correct one.

I think now we can assume that your battery is OK. Normally, if it were weak, it would cut out prematurely.

The controller controls speed of the motor, not power, although it has a power algorithm in it that adjusts power to try to reach the speed set, so the next thing you need to determine is whether the motor can reach its maximum speed. If it can achieve 15 mph or more, then the throttle's working properly and the controller's probably giving its maximum power. If on the other hand its top speed is less than 15mph, then something is wrong with a setting on your panel or the controller.

To measure the speed, you need a cycle computer, or you need to be able to count very fast. 15mph is approx 200rpm.

Fix a cable tie to a spoke so that it clicks on the forks as it goes past. Make a line of ten pebbles, nuts or whatever. Lift the wheel; open the throttle; let it get up to speed; start a stopwatch and count the clicks. Every time you get to 20 push a pebble forward. When all 10 pebbles are moved, look at the stop-watch. If less than a minute, you have more than 15mph.

If you already have a cycle computer, temporarily fix the magnet on the back wheel. Unclip the sensor and display from the handlebar. Hold the sensor in the right position to get a reading from the magnet and spin up the motor to measure the speed. It takes a bit of practice to get it right. Rest your hand on the frame to hold it steadily in position.

Both these two procedures are easier with another person to help.

 

[jackhandy]

Fix a cable tie to a spoke so that it clicks on the forks as it goes past. Make a line of ten pebbles, nuts or whatever. Lift the wheel; open the throttle; let it get up to speed; start a stopwatch and count the clicks. Every time you get to 20 push a pebble forward. When all 10 pebbles are moved, look at the stop-watch. If less than a minute, you have more than 15mph.

Love it - Measuring road wheel rpm with an abacus! Never would have thought of it... But, of course, it works a treat

 

[Mike63]

Cheers d8veh....think I'll go with the cycle computer rather than the pebble/cable tie method.

....I'm away tomorrow 'till next Friday...so I'll try it when I get back.

If anyone thinks of anything relevant before then, appreciate knowing.

....many thanks everybody.

 

[Mike63]

Hi ....d8veh

If you already have a cycle computer, temporarily fix the magnet on the back wheel. Unclip the sensor and display from the handlebar. Hold the sensor in the right position to get a reading from the magnet and spin up the motor to measure the speed. It takes a bit of practice to get it right. Rest your hand on the frame to hold it steadily in position.

I'm just back from Cambridge where, on a flat, perfect surface, cycle path, I switched off pedal assist and useing just throttle I took the speed up to exactly 15.5 mph before the motor cut out.
...I had no trouble maintaining this speed for over a mile.
...does this not mirror what you were suggesting by the above ?

....cheers... mike

 

[Deleted member 4366]

A no-load speed like I'd suggested would've been better, but if your bike can maintain 15mph on the flat, there's nothing much wrong with the battery or throttle. That only leaves the current limit. To increase it, you need to solder approximately 1/3 of the shunt in the controller. Unscrew a side-plate off the compartment under the battery, pull out the controller, and take a photo of it. Report the current rating that's written on it.

 

[Mike63]

Hi .... d8veh...took picture but unable to upload...however this is what it says on controller ...

Intelligent Motor Controller

Voltage: 36v Embedded Voltage: 31.5v Model 1: YK177-2 1.1
Angle: 120 Brake Level1: Low Production Date: 2011-7
Produced by Nanjing Yuan1ang Technological Development Co. Ltd.

Tel: 0086 25 66612289 1107AF10063

...does that tell you anything ?.....regards....Mike

 

[jackhandy]

Everything... Except the current rating

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Hi .... d8veh...took picture but unable to upload...however this is what it says on controller ...

Intelligent Motor Controller

Voltage: 36v Embedded Voltage: 31.5v Model 1: YK177-2 1.1
Angle: 120 Brake Level1: Low Production Date: 2011-7
Produced by Nanjing Yuan1ang Technological Development Co. Ltd.

Tel: 0086 25 66612289 1107AF10063

...does that tell you anything ?.....regards....Mike

To show a photo:
Go to Photobucket.com and open an account (it's free). Upload your photos there. Once uploaded, click on the photo to bring it up. On the right, you will see a "links" box. Click in the img box, and it should flash once "copied". Switch back to your forum post, right click and select "paste". Some code will appear, which will change to a beautiful photo when you post.

The info you gave means nothing. I want to see a photo.

 

[Eaglerider]

I'm just back from Cambridge where, on a flat, perfect surface, cycle path, I switched off pedal assist and useing just throttle I took the speed up to exactly 15.5 mph before the motor cut out.
...I had no trouble maintaining this speed for over a mile.
...does this not mirror what you were suggesting by the above ?

....cheers... mike

If its doing 15.5 then there can't be much wrong with the power, but I'll wager your controller is packing up, in just the same fashion mine did. From the details written on your controller it's exactly the same as mine was. When my intermittent fault started occurring, my bike would often do about a mile or two, then cut out. Usually it was remedied by switching off, waiting a few seconds and then switching back on. Sometimes, flicking the brake levers rapidly would re-start it again. The problem got progressively worse until I replaced the controller with a new one. The new one runs a bit faster and will do 16.5 to 17 mph on the flat throttle only, although that's in the current warm weather that probably allows the battery to give a bit more oomph.

If your battery is OK, which it appears you have established, then I'd be inclined to replace the controller. It was about £60 from Freego. Of course, it may be that you can fix it with D8Veh's help, but I'm not sure if soldering the shunt will prevent it cutting out.

Initially your problem seemed to be low power, but now it is cutting out, It's all rather confusing, but it's worth trying to fix it as D8Veh says. If that doesn't work, then you will have to replace it anyway. When you say "cut out", do you mean all power was lost, or that it wouldn't go any faster?

 

[Mike63]

When you say "cut out", do you mean all power was lost, or that it wouldn't go any faster?

Thanks Eaglerider....when i said "cut out" I meant it wouldn't go any faster....without pedalling.
....normally I ride on pedal assist...I never use the throttle and as I don't ride above 15mph the motor has never "cut out"
....as I understand it the motor " cuts out" above 15mph as per the legal limit.
I'm not even sure it suffers from low power....nothing to compare it to.

I'm not sure the bike had been used, before I bought it...and since putting on some 500 miles and this warm weather it appears to run a lot better.

cheers.....Mike

 

[Eaglerider]

Well well. It would seem that your bike is now operating properly. Perhaps, as you suggest, the battery needed 'waking up', and the recent bout of activity has done just that.

In pedelec mode, once 15.5 mph is achieved, the power will slowly reduce as you pedal faster. Mine is still drawing some current up to about 17.5 mph, and thereafter if I go faster, (like down a hill) no power is drawn, even if I keep pedalling.

Glad you're having fun. Hopefully the bike is all sorted now and all that remains is for you to enjoy it.

Godspeed, in all your endeavours.

ER

 

[Mike63]

Hi Eaglerider....the connections have come off the front light.
...there are 4 pins under the light and 2 connectors...1 red and 1 black.
Which connector goes to which pin ?

....thanks...Mike

 

[Eaglerider]

Hi Mike, sorry I didn't spot this as the thread was well down the list.

If you haven't sussed it already, the red wire goes on the right contact and the black to the left on the rearmost pins, oriented as you sit on the bike. The front pins are not connected on mine.

 

[Mike63]

...thanks Eaglerider...thats great.
....cheers....Mike