FreeGo Eagle Upgrades

[AndyBike]

It's expensive, I knew you'd like it.

No you guys are not just getting the point.

There are many on here will tell you chapter and verse on this motor, or that specific battery type and model. Which remote or controller thing. How to solder this in, how to and what to look for with this voltage or that ampage
and that's fine. Its an electric bike and those are the parts that makes it go.
So Im sure those members place a great deal of importance on those aspects.

But the attitude when it comes to the rest of the bike is wholly different. Then its 'Oh thats good enough. Spend a £1k on building a top motor and parts, then satisfy that a fork that retails at 50 quid is good enough- the reasoning being that it goes up and down. Or the brakes in that 'oh look, i got these brakes for £25 a set'. Those are hydraulic or cable so they must be ideal. Well they aren't.

And you should look at al aspects of the bike, not just one part and readily dismiss the rest.

If i was to adopt this attitude, as soon as a new member joined looking for advice on what Ebike to get, i should ignore hub motors and insist they buy mid drive. Following the prevailing attitude here thats good enough. It's a motor, it makes the bike go and theres nothing to do but plug and play.

So while you can chat away about this type of motor, who made the batteries and the intricacies of that, Im better placed through my own experience of building and servicing my own(and others) high end mtbs as to what is just just 'suitable' and i use that word loosely, but what will provide a better ride in more comfort or what makes the bike stop in all situations. Be that offroad or barrelling along the public highway.

Im more than sure that if our badger follower was riding a full sus, or at least 6" up front with the type of modern fork which is going to react to a sudden high impact and just soak it up, he wouldnt have been pitched off to his injury.
You hit anything at any sort of speed and the fork is going to go through its travel pretty quick, but in a controlled manner. A fork that barely moves at the best of times is going to react harshly and suddenly, giving the rider little chance to react.

All these parts have been born out of decades of testing in the real world and in all conditions.
No doubt many of you watch TDF when its on. And no doubt you'll have noticed that even in that high brow sport of professional riders where milliseconds mean the difference between win and lose have adopted disc brakes. Why would they do that ?, unless it was the safest option for the speeds on the road they are moving at, and while many of us cannot reach those sorts of speeds on the flats, add a hill in there and riding at 30mph becomes the norm. Do you think the brakes those riders are using are of the ilk of 'oh look, i got these brakes for £25 a set'. No they are the top end, not just for the weight issue, but also that they are the best safest part for the job.

So as far as im concerned, a bike is the sum of it's constituent parts, not just one aspect.

 

[I893469365902345609348566]

Im more than sure that if our badger follower was riding a full sus, or at least 6" up front with the type of modern fork which is going to react to a sudden high impact and just soak it up, he wouldnt have been pitched off to his injury.

Oh I don't know about that. Badgers kill motorcyclists, which have better suspension:

GARDAÍ are investigating if a motorcyclist who died in a road crash hit a badger before losing control of his bike.

Two motorcyclists die in separate crashes

GARDAÍ are investigating if a motorcyclist who died in a road crash hit a badger before losing control of his bike.

www.independent.ie

That badger was like a small pig... 6 inches of travel woun't have been nearly enough. Fine for hitting a pavement head on, but a fat stout badger from the side? don't think so, but I'm sure others may be of a different opinion.

Even the dead ones you see on the road are greater than 6 inches in height lying down on their sides. And even if 6 inches of travel was enough for rolling over a badger cub say, regaining control after doing so would also be tricky.

It hunkered down and braced itself shortly before my front wheel hit it on it's hind quarters from the side, while it was in a sitting position, and it screamed like a small child... I don't think I actually knocked it over, so 6 inches would not have been enough.

Maybe someone could try it with a stuffed badger of the same size and weight? Dynamic range of my video camera is poor and it's a wide angle lens which stretches objects away from the middle, and shrinks the middle. It was a fairly sizable badger.

So I say again: Cyclists! Beware of badgers! (Even if you have a cool bike with great suspension with 6 inches of travel).

 

[I893469365902345609348566]

Im more than sure that if our badger follower was riding a full sus, or at least 6" up front with the type of modern fork which is going to react to a sudden high impact and just soak it up, he wouldnt have been pitched off to his injury.

The only way I think... that 6 inches of travel could possibly make itself useful in a badger colliion... is before the collision, if suspension on both wheels could also have propulsion, launching first the front wheel upwards into the air, immediately upon automatic detection of said badger... followed by the rear wheel thus clearing the badger hazard. And auto steering for a time to balance the bike. 6 inches? Nah.

 

[Bonzo Banana]

Let it go Bonzo!

As you have said you don't even have front fork suspension. I should be writing your posts as I do have a Suntour fork. It has been durable and very good for an entry level fork. It came with my £1,750 bike and combined air adjustment for my weight and oil damping. Nearly eight years later the chrome s unpitted and the seals still work.

I think what I am trying to say in my post is that there is a sweet spot, price point, where you get a very good product that represents excellent value, and above that it can be a case of a much more limited improvement as you start to spend more and more.

I have quite a few bikes and do have Suntour, Rockshox and Marzocchi front suspension bikes but have never owned a Fox fork or an air fork. However I'd only have front suspension for a mountain bike I just don't see the point on the road except I do like a suspension seat post sometimes for more rigid harsh riding bikes, perhaps thin tyres and very rigid aluminium frames. Also if you have a direct drive hub motor on the rear, the short spokes can mean a very harsh feeling rear wheel so like a suspension seat post for those. I recently bought a rough s/hand ebike Roodog Bliss for £50 and it has a small zoom suspension fork for its 20" wheels. It's a disposable product really. The bike isn't that old maybe 2015/16 (so has a full throttle) but the forks are the main point of degradation.

 

[georgehenry]

I have two air shocks, The Suntour on The Haibike, and a Rockshox on a acoustic hard tail bike that gets very little use now, but still the occasional ride with friends also on acoustic bikes. As far as I can tell the air element is a bit like pre-load and to make allowance for the weight of the rider, although I could easily be wrong.

 

[Bonzo Banana]

I have two air shocks, The Suntour on The Haibike, and a Rockshox on a acoustic hard tail bike that gets very little use now, but still the occasional ride with friends also on acoustic bikes. As far as I can tell the air element is a bit like pre-load and to make allowance for the weight of the rider, although I could easily be wrong.

Yes I've seen many reviews of air forks compared to coil and where they suggest swopping out springs for coil forks to get the right adjustment for heavy or light riders with air forks its just a matter of pumping them up to the right level however they don't have the robustness of good coil forks and many people have small leaks just like tyres where they need their pressure topping up with a pump on occasion. Aggressive downhill bikes often have coil forks fitted for their extra strength. Adjusting the preload on a coil fork does not give you the same performance control as pumping up a air fork. Air forks can add an extra layer of maintenance. I've seen people recommend servicing their fox forks after 50hrs of riding although I think fox recommendation is double that around 100-125hrs depending on model. Compared to a rigid fork where no servicing required, no servicing kit or seals required etc. I've seen Zoom forks where the seals just let in water from day one. If you ride in the rain the forks will gradually take in water so you have to take them apart, clean them and grease them regularly, replacement seals are not available. You see so many such forks that have not been maintained and just seize after a year or so of use because they are internally corroded and unsafe with it. These basic forks are just about ok for fair weather cyclists but not all weather cyclists. I think from entry level to high performance suspension forks there is maintenance required, good quality coil forks which Suntour make at their mid-price point level probably need the least maintenance, partly due to simplicity and party because they simply aren't used off-road to the same intensity.

 

[Nealh]

Bikes are like cars , buyer see suspension forks and disc brakes and think a bike will be better but then bemoan how heavy the bike is . Just the same as cars went to having electrical components .

Some one near me is terrible at bike maintenance and brings issues to my door to fix.
He bought a near new used Giant 29er thinking because it is Giant to be bullet proof but he bought an abused dog of a bike.
Front QR cam was fooked the cam was all but worn away with incorrect adjustment and abuse and couldn't understand why the front wheel wouldn't stay in, like the previous owner he just tried to tighten it up for tension.
Then the in house crappy HDB's leaked all over the shot , both front and rear rotors/pads totally contaminated. I advised him to spend 70 odd quid and get some decent entry level tektro or shimano mineral oil brakes to illiminate issues with moisture etc,etc, but he went cheaper with some zoom DOT fliud brakes . He is happy because he thinks he's saved himself money but will have issues with bleeding and brake fade in the future , which means he will be knocking on my door again and more payment to me.

 

[cyclebuddy]

As far as I can tell the air element is a bit like pre-load and to make allowance for the weight of the rider,

Surely that's the benefit of lower cost, coil sprung shocks?

I often ride a mix of smooth road and rough trail. With a simple coil-sprung Suntour NEX fork, you simply variably rotate between firm and soft whilst on the ride. None of this "add more air" or "let air out" nonsense to accommodate a wide range of riding surfaces. It's a good all-encompassing solution for most non-specialist riders, simple and effective, without this crap about optimising for any given rider weight or terrain.

 

[AndyBike]

Oh I don't know about that. Badgers kill motorcyclists, which have better suspension:

No they dont. Motorbikes have short travel firm suspension because theyre used on the road.

 

[AndyBike]

Yes I've seen many reviews of air forks compared to coil and where they suggest swopping out springs for coil forks to get the right adjustment for heavy or light riders with air forks its just a matter of pumping them up to the right level however they don't have the robustness of good coil forks and many people have small leaks just like tyres where they need their pressure topping up with a pump on occasion. Aggressive downhill bikes often have coil forks fitted for their extra strength. Adjusting the preload on a coil fork does not give you the same performance control as pumping up a air fork. Air forks can add an extra layer of maintenance. I've seen people recommend servicing their fox forks after 50hrs of riding although I think fox recommendation is double that around 100-125hrs depending on model. Compared to a rigid fork where no servicing required, no servicing kit or seals required etc. I've seen Zoom forks where the seals just let in water from day one. If you ride in the rain the forks will gradually take in water so you have to take them apart, clean them and grease them regularly, replacement seals are not available. You see so many such forks that have not been maintained and just seize after a year or so of use because they are internally corroded and unsafe with it. These basic forks are just about ok for fair weather cyclists but not all weather cyclists. I think from entry level to high performance suspension forks there is maintenance required, good quality coil forks which Suntour make at their mid-price point level probably need the least maintenance, partly due to simplicity and party because they simply aren't used off-road to the same intensity.

Fox fork service schedule is 1year or X miles - I forget the exact number but
I'll look it up.
As to te service, its just a very basic affair.
Remove air, then loosen and remove footbolts and pull the entire lower legs clear. Replace the foam rings, put in fresh fluid(adapting weight if you fancy a change of feel) then bolt back up. Its a 20 minute job.

As to coil forks, you can get a kit to change out the air spring for a coil spring, but its a one time job and once done you cannot revert back to air as the spring damages the inside of the stanchion.
Its a really good upgrade, but you need to decide if the extra weight is something you dont mind adding.
Heres a good deal if anyone is interested.

Fox 34 Float Rhythm GRIP Boost MTB Forks 2021 - 29" | Merlin Cycles

Buy your Fox 34 Float Rhythm GRIP Boost MTB Forks 2021 - 29" at Merlin. Free worldwide delivery available on most items!

www.merlincycles.com

Im tempted myself but I've already a new fork(RS Lyrik) waiting in the wings so am upgrading the shock from fox to cane creek.
I love a bargain.

DBair IL - Shocks - TF Tuned

DBair IL from TF Tuned.

www.tftuned.com

 

[I893469365902345609348566]

No they dont. Motorbikes have short travel firm suspension because theyre used on the road.

Motorbikes have better suspension than bicycles with no suspension. 6 inches of travel isn't enough to prevent you toppling over after colliding with a badger. You're fantasising, wake up.

"Adults measure 25–30 cm (9.8–11.8 in) in shoulder height "

and they have short legs. Even if you somehow cleared a tiny one, you'd have difficulty recovering balance after a sudden surprise like that. A side swiping badger will turn your front wheel to one side. Badgers are not light animals.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/European_badger

 

[guerney]

No you guys are not just getting the point.

There are many on here will tell you chapter and verse on this motor, or that specific battery type and model. Which remote or controller thing. How to solder this in, how to and what to look for with this voltage or that ampage
and that's fine. Its an electric bike and those are the parts that makes it go.
So Im sure those members place a great deal of importance on those aspects.

But the attitude when it comes to the rest of the bike is wholly different. Then its 'Oh thats good enough. Spend a £1k on building a top motor and parts, then satisfy that a fork that retails at 50 quid is good enough- the reasoning being that it goes up and down. Or the brakes in that 'oh look, i got these brakes for £25 a set'. Those are hydraulic or cable so they must be ideal. Well they aren't.

And you should look at al aspects of the bike, not just one part and readily dismiss the rest.

If i was to adopt this attitude, as soon as a new member joined looking for advice on what Ebike to get, i should ignore hub motors and insist they buy mid drive. Following the prevailing attitude here thats good enough. It's a motor, it makes the bike go and theres nothing to do but plug and play.

So while you can chat away about this type of motor, who made the batteries and the intricacies of that, Im better placed through my own experience of building and servicing my own(and others) high end mtbs as to what is just just 'suitable' and i use that word loosely, but what will provide a better ride in more comfort or what makes the bike stop in all situations. Be that offroad or barrelling along the public highway.

Im more than sure that if our badger follower was riding a full sus, or at least 6" up front with the type of modern fork which is going to react to a sudden high impact and just soak it up, he wouldnt have been pitched off to his injury.
You hit anything at any sort of speed and the fork is going to go through its travel pretty quick, but in a controlled manner. A fork that barely moves at the best of times is going to react harshly and suddenly, giving the rider little chance to react.

All these parts have been born out of decades of testing in the real world and in all conditions.
No doubt many of you watch TDF when its on. And no doubt you'll have noticed that even in that high brow sport of professional riders where milliseconds mean the difference between win and lose have adopted disc brakes. Why would they do that ?, unless it was the safest option for the speeds on the road they are moving at, and while many of us cannot reach those sorts of speeds on the flats, add a hill in there and riding at 30mph becomes the norm. Do you think the brakes those riders are using are of the ilk of 'oh look, i got these brakes for £25 a set'. No they are the top end, not just for the weight issue, but also that they are the best safest part for the job.

So as far as im concerned, a bike is the sum of it's constituent parts, not just one aspect.

You're someone who clearly knows how to maintain manual bikes, therefore I find it odd that you'd choose such a complicated system you couldn't repair yourself. Have you added that Exposure light to your bike yet?

 

[Nealh]

For most the top end components are not neceesary for the expense laid out, it is purely one upmanship and bragging rights to mates you ride with (keeping up with the Joneses). SW rightly shows off his bike though does all his bike maintenance , Iike my self I also do all my bike maintenance hub, bearing strip , wheel building etc etc.
I though don't need to buy or use the expensive components for the riding I do , if one does their own maintenance and keep on top of everything then one doesn't need them for most ridng diciplines. That said my Surly rigid forks cost twice that of a std cheap suntour suspension fork.

 

[AndyBike]

Have you added that Exposure light to your bike yet?

Meow


Nope, not fitted it. TBH im a bit lazy over it and am just going to double up with a 2nd Exposure Toro or maybe a 6 pack.
I use turbo pretty much all the time so having lights i can take off and charge is probably the best route for me. Not that I think the fuse light will draw a lot from the battery as i said im just a bit lazy/depressed currently. I keep putting things off.
Even the pro4 wheelset and the tech 4 brakes i bought are still sitting there, so i think its something like depression is preventing me from getting on with things