Freego Eagle Error 30

[Glynemrys]

Hi all. My bike is 4 years old and has done just over 1400 miles.

Recently, the 9 pin plug between to controller and the rear hub motor started to play up and I had issues where the bike just wouldn't respond. I found that the plug had been arcing and had overheated.

I replaced it, but to no avail - the mother made a buzzing noise and just moved slightly on the throttle. I connected my wife bike meter up and it did exactly the same - I guess that eliminated the hub motor.

I stripped it all down again, removed the controller checking the PCB for damage but there was none evident.

After reassembly, it worked! - went for a 10 mile trip down the canal bank to shake it up a little and it was fine.

I charged the battery, and tried it again - it worked but then started showing "error 30" on the LCD (XT-LCD W108). However, if I turn the throttle it goes off and the screen comes back on as normal with full pull. Likewise, If I pedal, the error disappears, the display comes back on and all is normal.

Has anyone got any ideas or can point me in the direction of a workshop manual? I should mention that I have a background in the repair of electronic devices albeit 30 years ago! So i'm no mug but a little rusty I guess!

Thanks in advance

Glyn

 

[artspeck]

Contact Freego Specialist Ed Cummings of Atmans. http://www.atman.uk.com/index.html
Or Portswood Cycles. https://portswood-cycles.co.uk/

 

[vfr400]

There's no workshop manual that gives any info on how to fix your problem. the manual tells you how to charge the battery and pump up your tyres, not how to do diagnostics. Error 30 is a communication error between the controller and LCD. it can be caused by a faulty connection or damaged wire, but more often, it's a fault on the 5V rail somewhere, which can be the throttle, PAS, motor hall sensors, speed sensor or on any cable in the bike. You have to start by measuring the 5V while you have error 30.

 

[Glynemrys]

There's no workshop manual that gives any info on how to fix your problem. the manual tells you how to charge the battery and pump up your tyres, not how to do diagnostics. Error 30 is a communication error between the controller and LCD. it can be caused by a faulty connection or damaged wire, but more often, it's a fault on the 5V rail somewhere, which can be the throttle, PAS, motor hall sensors, speed sensor or on any cable in the bike. You have to start by measuring the 5V while you have error 30.

Hi. Thanks for taking the time to reply. Where is the best point to measure the 5v? For your info, the faul has now rectified itself again. I hate intermittent faults!

 

[Glynemrys]

Contact Freego Specialist Ed Cummings of Atmans. http://www.atman.uk.com/index.html
Or Portswood Cycles. https://portswood-cycles.co.uk/

Thanks for that.

 

[Lee Arnall]

Hi all, hope you can help. So I’m nearly ready to commit to chopping wires.

however, I’m thrown by the new KT hall sensor block.

On the KT 60S there is an extra 6th wire (white). Whereas on my freego hall sensor block there is only 5 wires blue, green, yellow, black, red.

could you please tell me what to do with the white wire that it will have nothing to correspond to on the original freego hall sensor block?

cheers all, Lee

 

[Nealh]

The sixth White hall wire is for an internal speed sensor, as your hub doesn't have one you can use an external sensor and spoke magnet. One wires the 5v & Gnd to any other one so the 5v & Gnd in the hall block one can splice to, and the signal often White connects to the spare White. If one isn't bothered about speed reading leave it unconnected.

If you want the hall block look up designation dj7061a -2.8-11 on ebay or other sites.

 

[Lee Arnall]

The sixth White hall wire is for an internal speed sensor, as your hub doesn't have one you can use an external sensor and spoke magnet. One wires the 5v & Gnd to any other one so the 5v & Gnd in the hall block one can splice to, and the signal often White connects to the spare White.

Of course yes - I have purchased the external speed sensor which has a dedicated port on the KT . So I guess I can leave that 6th white wire out

**** Couple more wire questions, then I think I’m sorted with wiring (hopefully)

PAS to save taking off the chainring I’ve opted to keep my existing pas (no plug end) however my pas is red blue yellow, KT pas is black yellow brown -
Am I correct to wire:
Blue-black
Red-brown
Yellow-yellow

2. Original brakes to KTcontroller.
Original brake 1 light pink+white
Original brake 2 brown + black
KT brakes 2 plugs of black/yellow
I’m Not sure what to do with these




thanks in advance

 

[vfr400]

Brakes are just switches, you can connect the wires ho0wever you want.
Your PAS suggestion is correct.

just to expand on Neal's answer, the external speed sensor is mandatory if you want speed sisplayed in the LCD. Alo, your controller will switch off in accordance with the sleep timer if you don't provide a speed signal.

 

[Lee Arnall]

Brakes are just switches, you can connect the wires ho0wever you want.
Your PAS suggestion is correct.

just to expand on Neal's answer, the external speed sensor is mandatory if you want speed sisplayed in the LCD. Alo, your controller will switch off in accordance with the sleep timer if you don't provide a speed signal.

Excellent re brakes that’s easy.

re speed sensor if I’m correct on the hall sensor block I disregard the 6th white wire and connect up mywheel mounted speed sensor onto the dedicated plug on the KT controller then I would be avoiding the issues you mentioned.

thank you to everyone helping me with this. You are all filling me with confidence on my ebike journey.

Is there anything I can do to help the forum - eg take any specific photos for others to benefit from and upload them?

 

[Nealh]

Some KT controllers have the extra external speed sensor connector some don't, one can choose which ever option they wish. Sensing will work either way.

 

[vfr400]

The two white wires are connected together inside the controller, so you can use either, or you can leave either disconnected. You only need to use one or the other.

 

[Lee Arnall]

Hi All,
So nearly there - all connected up however the PAS does not kick in, throttle works fine.

ive attached pics of the settings I have from what I found on the web.

my PAS is 5 magnets, on the drive chain side

before I start pulling apart my PAS soldering thought it best to check in with you all for ideas first,

cheers

Lee

 

[Nealh]

PAS wire sequence is wrong, once connected correctly one should see the Red PAS led blink.
Yellow - Black, Gnd
Red - Brown, 5v
Blue - Yellow, Sig

When Black & Yellow are used on the same side of the connector then Yellow is sig.
Blue is also the sig on the other side.

 

[Nealh]

For some reason vfr and I must have glossed over you PAS sequence, once re -wired as I have mentioned it will run.

 

[Lee Arnall]

For some reason vfr and I must have glossed over you PAS sequence, once re -wired as I have mentioned it will run.

Th ask gang will have a crack at this a try in the morning - so far it looks fantastic

 

[Lee Arnall]

You have saved me! Instead of sleeping I decided to get the tools out and try what you said, then changed the settings to c1=0. Bingo we have assist!

I’m looking forward to getting the bike out and give it a blast.


thank you to this forum for giving me the advice and support I needed to upgrade, what a fortune I have saved myself, and I’m sure will be a great ride quality too.

 

[vfr400]

You have saved me! Instead of sleeping I decided to get the tools out and try what you said, then changed the settings to c1=0. Bingo we have assist!

I’m looking forward to getting the bike out and give it a blast.


thank you to this forum for giving me the advice and support I needed to upgrade, what a fortune I have saved myself, and I’m sure will be a great ride quality too.

Let us know how it compares with the old controller.

 

[Nealh]

LOL, I sowed the seed and you couldn't get to sleep with the mind pondering on getting the bike working later in the morning.
One expects after you slept like a lamb ?

Most often the issue is a wire or setting issue, for some reason we don't always see or read the info supplied until a closer later look at posts.

Another happy ending with a bikes system working as it should.

 

[Nealh]

If you took it to a bike shop most wouldn't have clue as they don't like or understand the simple China systems, these system are simpler and much easier to work on then the closed expensive ones.
Only a vendor who builds/design's their own bikes like Juicy, Wisper or Woosh would understand the fault and find the problem, that's why forums like this are so invaluable to owners of oem and kit bikes because not many in reality understand China wiring and in cases the display settings. For most dealers unless a pc can fault find an issue by plugging it in, they really haven't got a scooby.