found a cyclamatic foldaway bike in a skip!

[thomasb]

I genuinely found the bike in a skip outside someones house, so bein cheeky I went and asked where the battery was, only to be told "dunno it mite have been chucked away" staggered by this mine of useless info I started lookin online for batteries and when I seen the prices of them I thought "so that's why it was chucked on a skip." About a week later they contact me sayin they found the batt/charger at the back of the shed! and "its never been used" she said. Now I don't know a lot but i'm pretty sure you have to periodically charge'em up even if you're not using it. Anyway I had offered £100 when I first contacted her, now she wants £150-£175 so I tell her to bang it on e-bay etc etc and she'll probably get what she wants! Now i'v bought a full"Proteam" bike with the batt/charger for £200, only problem being that the lad was messing about and went inside the hub and snipped a red wire which as he cut right back so it cant come thru the centre of the wheel to whatever connection it was on. So being as he thought he'd knackered the bike he stripped everything off it and used it as an ordinary bike. This is a condensed version of how I got the bikes and I was wondering if any of your members etc could tell me how to go about re wiring it back up+hopefully get her going again.

I'll say thanx in advance for your time'n'patience.




































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[Deleted member 4366]

The red wire in the motor is to power the hall sensors. The motor can run OK sensorless, but not with the standard controller. You can get a sensorless one or dual mode. The problem is that the controller's compartment is very small, so check the size of any potential controller. If you don't mind doing a bit of wiring, you can mount the controller externally in a box. The pedal sensor works backwards with some controllers, so you might have to flip the magnet disc. Have a look at this thread, which m:ight give you some ideas:

http://www.pedelecs.co.uk/forum/threads/cyclamatic-the-beastamatic-is-dead-long-live-the-beastamatic.9857/

missing photos here:

http://s451.photobucket.com/user/d8veh/library/Beastamatic?sort=3&page=1

 

[thomasb]

er . . im getting things back to front mate, sorry.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

That wiring looks like it's been well butchered. I hope you're good at wiring and soldering.

Lets start with the motor connections The first photo shows the cable, which should be attached to the motor. The motor is powered by the the three thicker phase wires (green, blue and yellow). The other five are for the three hall sensors inside the motor, which give timing signals to the controller. The timing signals keep the power pulses in sync with the motor. The halls are powered by the thinner red and black wires at 5v, so red is 5v DC and black is 0v. The remaining three thinner wires (green, blue and yellow) carry the timing signals back to the controller as 5v pulses.

Some Cyclamatics/Proteams have a multi-pin connector about 300mm from the motor, but I guess that yours doesn't have that. If somebody falls off the bike, the wires sometimes get ground through where they exit the motor. The other way they get detatched is when some nutter decides to cut them to remove the wheel. If they did a bad job of reconnecting them so that any two shorted out on each other, the controller and possibly halls will be terminally damaged.

Some controllers can synchronize their pulses without hall sensors. They're called sensorless controllers. They don't need the wiring for the halls to be connected. Some controllers can automatically switch between sensor and sensorless mode depending whether you connect the halls.

There's a theoretical efficiency gain running with sensors, and the motor will normally, but not always run smoother with sensors. Some motors don't run very well without sensors, but yours should be OK.

Your first step should be to join the motor wire back to the motor and then test whether the halls are still working. The next step will be to test the controller.

Show us a photo of the motor so that we can see what's left of the wires.