Finally pushed my hub too far?

[anon4]

Yesterday my suntour hesc hub which has been overvolted for a while inexplicably died. What's wierd is it worked fine until I unplugged the motor higo plug to show a family member who was wanting to do work on his bike. After this it just would not work, slight judder followed by error 3 hall sensor. Ended up stripping the wire down and found broken yellow wire, but now I think I just broke that on its way out of the insulation. Replaced the whole cable and now it's exactly the same behaviour but error 6 phase problem instead. Tested with 2 controllers I know to be good. What the hell is going on? Did I cook it?

 

[anon4]

Tests indicate no connection on the blue phase, perhaps the wire has come loose inside?

 

[Deleted member 25121]

Tests indicate no connection on the blue phase, perhaps the wire has come loose inside?

Possibly a wire inside the motor has become brittle and broken because of overheating.

 

[anon4]

Possibly a wire inside the motor has become brittle and broken because of overheating.

Yep that's my guess, currently stripping it but can't seem to get into the wiring part

 

[KirstinS]

I have had a few over voltibg issues over time including overheated phases . I have found the connections to be the issue / where they burnt or broke.

Sounds like you did this already though with a full replacement

I got to the point of always soldering phases directly which solved it nearly always. Dodgy connectors are hard to diagnose in that you can get a voltage on test which disappears under load as the connection is too weak. I got same effect from batteries where a solder/weld has come loose. A bit of pressure provides a current for testing but drops when a load applied

Well aware you know this stuff but just adding my experience!

 

[anon4]

I have had a few over voltibg issues over time including overheated phases . I have found the connections to be the issue / where they burnt or broke.

Sounds like you did this already though with a full replacement

I got to the point of always soldering phases directly which solved it nearly always. Dodgy connectors are hard to diagnose in that you can get a voltage on test which disappears under load as the connection is too weak. I got same effect from batteries where a solder/weld has come loose. A bit of pressure provides a current for testing but drops when a load applied

Well aware you know this stuff but just adding my experience!

Yeah connectors can be a nightmare, this is an internal fault all visible wire tested for continuity and all good, so the break is inside. Now I'm stuffed because it seems to be engineered in a way that makes accessing the wiring part of the internals impossible without machines. And due to its wierd 160mm dropout size I'm going to either have to spread my frame for a fatbike hub or squish it for a normal one. Not too impressed today hehe

 

[peter.c]

Try the listing below I bought from him before
can supply any halfords part has loads, some new unused only problem is you have to collect but always has plenty of interesting stuff

ELECTRIC BIKE SPARES CARRERA CROSSFIRE WHEELS WITH TYRES | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for ELECTRIC BIKE SPARES CARRERA CROSSFIRE WHEELS WITH TYRES at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[anon4]

Try the listing below I bought from him before
can supply any halfords part has loads, some new unused only problem is you have to collect but always has plenty of interesting stuff

ELECTRIC BIKE SPARES CARRERA CROSSFIRE WHEELS WITH TYRES | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for ELECTRIC BIKE SPARES CARRERA CROSSFIRE WHEELS WITH TYRES at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

Thanks but just ordered a cyclotricity 500w hub which is probably better suited to my controller anyway. Not sure if I'll get it to fit my huge dropouts but I have a regular Carrera MTB that I could transplant my parts onto if needed