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Fiido D2s controller wiring

Featured Replies

I recently bought a D2s and so far I am very pleased. However I am concerned that it has no "Ignition Switch". Anyone in the know could turn the system on whilst I was away from the locked up bike in town. I intend putting in a key-switch to disable the system.

I have checked out the controller wiring and proved all of the connection but for two, an orange and black connection, and a red- black-yellow connection. Can anyone tell me what these could be for? The controller is marked as WK3615YS.

I have "enclosed" the open area below the controller with plastic panels. I will mount the key-switch here.

Richard

I recently bought a D2s and so far I am very pleased. However I am concerned that it has no "Ignition Switch". Anyone in the know could turn the system on whilst I was away from the locked up bike in town. I intend putting in a key-switch to disable the system.

I have checked out the controller wiring and proved all of the connection but for two, an orange and black connection, and a red- black-yellow connection. Can anyone tell me what these could be for? The controller is marked as WK3615YS.

I have "enclosed" the open area below the controller with plastic panels. I will mount the key-switch here.

Richard

They won't be for ignition unless they already have a jumper loop connected. You can measure them with a meter to see what they are. Black and red will probably be battery voltage for lights and orange and black could be battery voltage switched by the brakes for a brake light or fixed battery voltage.

 

Show the actual wiring if you want ideas on where to put an ignition switch.

  • 1 month later...

i recently added a voltmeter with key by tapping the G20 power switch wires.

 

made a simpl video here

i recently added a voltmeter with key by tapping the G20 power switch wires.

 

made a simpl video here

Nice one. That'll work on any electric bike with a handlebar mounted control panel. For a bike with sealed connectors, you can cut and join the wires inside the controller box.

  • 2 months later...
All controllers work more or less the same. If you show us what you've got, we can explain how to put it together.

All controllers work more or less the same. If you show us what you've got, we can explain how to put it together.

Thank you for your answer!!!, the pinout of this controller is in the image, the colors are different that fiido´s original in some connections.

 

pinout.thumb.png.cdd7190f547b9db1e4295906ab101762.png

 

The new remote control has same colors that new controller and it has acelerator too, you can see the image

mando.png.217824a7ed03f4e68450d5a95e44bc69.png

 

 

Thanks!!

Everything is normal on that controller. You should leave the green intelligent-learning wires disconnected for now. 1:1 power means pedal sensor. You need to show what's on your bike if you want to know what to connect to what.
  • 4 weeks later...

All controllers work more or less the same. If you show us what you've got, we can explain how to put it together.

 

Hello! Can I step in the conversation?

 

I have the exact same controller in my ebike. I bought the kit (controller, throttle, headlight, and G20 display) not knowing it belonged to a Fiido (supposedly the D2S model... It's long and not so happy story). Can someone help me with the connections?

 

As it turns out, I have an error code regarding "the top tube broken" (as described in the manufacturer FAQ). The LEDs in the display flash 5 times. I'm guessing I have some parts missing? At least the switch for the light and horn I know is missing, but I think it will be easy to "replicate".

 

Apart from the motor phase, battery and Hall sensor wires, I have the following "known" connectors:

- One 5 wire connector: G20 display;

- Two 2 wire plugs: yellow/black, 5 volt between them: brake levers;

 

With these I have doubts:

- One 3 wire connector: black (0 volt), red (5 volt), green (0 volt): throttle (?);

- One 3 wire connector: black (0 volt), red (5 volt), green (5 volt): pedal assist (?);

- One 3 wire plug: black (0 volt), red (40 volt) and yellow (0 volt): Headlamp and horn?

 

These I don't know what are for:

- Two 2 wire connector: black (0 volt) and orange (40 volt)

 

I have some photos attatched.

 

Thanks in advance!

IMG_20201208_230522.thumb.jpg.c2b90640ee669e5cd6e0cff7cf7a5380.jpg IMG_20201210_005351.thumb.jpg.854249b98602ed1be50cd7b0141a1270.jpg Fiido_Healamp.thumb.jpg.813140322241e05154351e611395985f.jpg

Orange and black are for whatever you want battery voltage for. It's difficult to say specifically what that is without the rest of the wiring. They could power an alarm or USB module or anything like that.

 

I've never seen identical throttle and PAS connectors. Normally, they'd be male and female or white and black so that you can't get them mixed up. That would leave the possibility that it's for some special sort of PAS that's interchangeable with a throttle.

Orange and black are for whatever you want battery voltage for. It's difficult to say specifically what that is without the rest of the wiring. They could power an alarm or USB module or anything like that.

 

I've never seen identical throttle and PAS connectors. Normally, they'd be male and female or white and black so that you can't get them mixed up. That would leave the possibility that it's for some special sort of PAS that's interchangeable with a throttle.

 

Thanks for the reply. Here goes the rest of the wiring:

IMG_20201210_162822.thumb.jpg.e422bbc57593b6e532aa5ca1b0097687.jpg

 

So I'm leaving the orange connectors alone, maybe I'll use them in the future for a voltage display of some sort...

 

My question now is what can be causing the error code in the controller? And I'm thinking about the headlight (and horn) switch. If I connect the headlight directly to the controller, the light turns on automatically when I power up the display, but I have no means of operating the horn (or switch off the light). On the other hand, there is no spare connector to plug the switch, so I'm guessing the switch must have two connectors and plug to both the controller and headlight?

(...)

I've never seen identical throttle and PAS connectors.

(...)

 

In the manufacturer's defense, the plugs had the wires placed differently from one another. I switched a couple of wires in one of the plugs in order align them with my PAS sensor.

 

But yes, a male and female set would be better, I tottaly agree.

Leaving things disconnected never gives an error code unless it's the motor.

I managed to obtain the wiring information from Fiido technical support. They were very helpful, thumbs up for them! :)

 

Battery wires (easy one):

BatteryWires.thumb.jpg.57399bf1cd6abcbd3aa68dfced2981ba.jpg

 

Motor phase/Hall sensor (also easy)

MotorWires.thumb.jpg.888b3ffc4be1b58aa0e2719a1667dc13.jpg

 

Horn/Light switch (red/yellow/green to orange/green/white), headlight/horn (black/yellow/red to black/green/white - I guess the free two wire plug is for the taillight) and G20 controller (only plug with 5 wires)

LightHornWires.thumb.jpg.12acb4a1594d125fd365bf72a902c0e3.jpg

 

Brakes (yellow/black to yellow/black) and PAS wire (red/black/green to red/yellow/blue - It's marked horn and light but must be by mistake, the colors don't match)

PASWire.thumb.jpg.f2509163e16a89f4287fbc6f5295e90d.jpg

 

Throttle Wires (black/green/red to black/green/red - same color as PAS sensor, but different wire order)

ThrottleWires.thumb.jpg.a80123f3dd60593434171984f865f039.jpg

Edited by jmlflorencio

(...)

As it turns out, I have an error code regarding "the top tube broken" (as described in the manufacturer FAQ). The LEDs in the display flash 5 times. I'm guessing I have some parts missing? At least the switch for the light and horn I know is missing, but I think it will be easy to "replicate".

 

I managed to solve this issue. LEDs flashing 5 times -> throttle error ("top tube" = "handlebar" = "throttle"). The hall sensor was faulty, replaced it ( reference 49E) and the problem was solved.

Leaving things disconnected never gives an error code unless it's the motor.

Thanks for all the help in this topic.

 

The error was in fact in the throttle. The curious thing is that leaving it disconnected gave the error code (I would also assume it wouldn't).

 

Anyway, the bike works. With the throttle at least, I still didn't manage to get the PAS to work :D

  • 11 months later...

I need help with the Controller (WK3615YS), using it with an e-scooter and no display.

 

The controller won't work, when I connect it with battery wires, hall-sensor wires, 3-phase motor wires, throttle wires of my e-scooter.

 

Using it with an e-scooter, of course the display is missing and also the key lock and the brakes. So I think I must connect specific wires of the plugs together, in order to work. Can someone help?

 

I already connected wires 1+2 and 3+5 at the display plug and now the controllers at least gives 5V output at the throttle plug. (before, it was 0V). Still no power to motor wires.

I need help with the Controller (WK3615YS), using it with an e-scooter and no display.

 

The controller won't work, when I connect it with battery wires, hall-sensor wires, 3-phase motor wires, throttle wires of my e-scooter.

 

Using it with an e-scooter, of course the display is missing and also the key lock and the brakes. So I think I must connect specific wires of the plugs together, in order to work. Can someone help?

 

I already connected wires 1+2 and 3+5 at the display plug and now the controllers at least gives 5V output at the throttle plug. (before, it was 0V). Still no power to motor wires.

 

With no display? Are you sure that works? And with no PAS sensor, as well?

 

When I was troubleshooting this controller, I found that the only thing I could leave disconnected were the brake sensors. Everything else needed to be in good working order...

 

And the display has a key role in that diagnostic, as it provides the information of which part is missing/malfunctioning.

 

You can probably find the necessary parts online for cheap.

 

Good luck ;)

With e bikes one can use no display by shorting the display supply wires together in a specific order though still needs PAS sensing for power, the power you get though is only the lowest level power mode.

With e bikes one can use no display by shorting the display supply wires together in a specific order though still needs PAS sensing for power, the power you get though is only the lowest level power mode.

You saying, the controller needs the PAS input signal to deliver power to the motor? Are you sure? Because the Fiido D2S works also without paddeling only by using the throttle AFAIK. Thats why so many posts are, how you "legalize the Fiido D2S" by making it a "real pedelec ebike", which it isn't by default with the throttle. Its not a normal pedelec.

 

 

The Fiido D2S uses a G20 display. And you turn "ON" the ebike by pressing a button on the G20. I'm just searching for how to do that by shorting the pins, or modifing the controller.

The fido is an illegal bike so how the system works I don't know, if the throttle overrides the PAS then it is not an eapc.
  • 2 years later...

Thanks for all the help in this topic.

 

The error was in fact in the throttle. The curious thing is that leaving it disconnected gave the error code (I would also assume it wouldn't).

 

Anyway, the bike works. With the throttle at least, I still didn't manage to get the PAS to work :D

 

Hi jmlflorencio,

Just checking if you have been able to fix the PAS. I have the same issue with a Fiido D4S. The throttle works, while the PAS doesn't.

 

Thanks!

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