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D
Deleted member 4366
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It makes a bit of resonance all the time, but when it goes very slow under load, it changes to a grating noise. It's worse at 36v because of the lower speed. The noise isn't a deal breaker for me, but could be different if you want to con the lycra brigade.
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
I was sending from Tapatalk, which won't work properly on my phone. I try and post a message and it stalls. Whether you go back or forwards, you can't see what's happened.
I'm not sure that our German friends have got it right. I discovered today that there are two elements to the gear-changing decision: Torque and speed. Both can be measured by the controller CPU using the current and hall-sensor signal.
If you force it into low gear, then stop it and lift the wheel off the ground, it always starts in high gear, but if your weight is on the bike, it starts in low gear.
There cannot be any sort of solenoid inside because there's no wire thick enough to power one. That's if there's any spare wire at all. I'm pretty sure that the white wire isn't connected. If the gear-changing were mechanical, there would have to be torque on the motor to change gear, but the changing happens while it's free-wheeling or stationary. Another point is how the controller would know to cut the power while it's changing. I can't see how it could be triggered. the changing has to be initiated by the controller - as I said by two simple conditions - speed and current (or manual switch). Also, to change gear from the switch would need a solenoid in the motor, which i don't believe it has.
Everything, to me, points to the controller making the motor reverse direction to change gear despite the patents banded about. I think they're red herrings. This method is simple, logical, and doesn't require any modification to the controller other than software. all it needs is a double ratchet/clutch in the motor.
The mystery will soon e solved when I get my next ones, which will give me the chance to open one.
I'm not sure that our German friends have got it right. I discovered today that there are two elements to the gear-changing decision: Torque and speed. Both can be measured by the controller CPU using the current and hall-sensor signal.
If you force it into low gear, then stop it and lift the wheel off the ground, it always starts in high gear, but if your weight is on the bike, it starts in low gear.
There cannot be any sort of solenoid inside because there's no wire thick enough to power one. That's if there's any spare wire at all. I'm pretty sure that the white wire isn't connected. If the gear-changing were mechanical, there would have to be torque on the motor to change gear, but the changing happens while it's free-wheeling or stationary. Another point is how the controller would know to cut the power while it's changing. I can't see how it could be triggered. the changing has to be initiated by the controller - as I said by two simple conditions - speed and current (or manual switch). Also, to change gear from the switch would need a solenoid in the motor, which i don't believe it has.
Everything, to me, points to the controller making the motor reverse direction to change gear despite the patents banded about. I think they're red herrings. This method is simple, logical, and doesn't require any modification to the controller other than software. all it needs is a double ratchet/clutch in the motor.
The mystery will soon e solved when I get my next ones, which will give me the chance to open one.
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I too hold some reservations after seeing the photos of the drive train. It appears to be metal geared and knowing that the freewheels can sometimes seize up, if it operates how we believe, then what would happen if the motor changes direction but the freewheel doesn't release?
I wouldn't over drive this motor.
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All motors have a very, very small risk that the gears break up inside causing the motor to seize up. The risk isn't much greater because the cogs are made of metal. I had opened a Xiongda motor with a cog that had two broken metal teeth, the debris simply got ground down to a couple of small (1mm) pieces by the cogs and stuck in the grease.
That risk may be twice on the XD because it has two planetary gears, then again, should be 10 times greater on a Nexus 8.
That risk may be twice on the XD because it has two planetary gears, then again, should be 10 times greater on a Nexus 8.
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
Not expensive. Controller, PAS, throttle, motor, LCD, gear switch, i can probably build the wheel into a rim if you want.
C
Cyclezee
Guest
I also ordered an Xiongda double speed motor at the weekend.
This one is a front wheel kit and the forks need to be stretched to 110 mm.
I like the idea in principle, just a bit concerned about the noise with metal gears after riding an old geared Heinzmann last week.
This one is a front wheel kit and the forks need to be stretched to 110 mm.
I like the idea in principle, just a bit concerned about the noise with metal gears after riding an old geared Heinzmann last week.
Thanks - let me know when you're ready to roll (I'd still like an actual cost before I totally commit, of course). I'd like it built into a 26 inch rim; I can do that myself, but I'm not very good at the balancing, don't bother with tube and tire. I don't actually need PAS, and I prefer thumb throttle.; I can change it myself if a twist throttle is the only option.
I use a bike for geocaching, it's all stop-and-start, with lots of soft ground and some steepish hills. So what I want is torque, top speed isn't so important. The gear change sounds like I'd get the best of both worlds. I run from Lipo, if the motor is 36v, I'd use 12S, which is nominally 44v, 50v when fully charged.
The donor bike is a pretty standard folder, steel forks, and I use a torque arm. Telford's not too far from me, I could come and collect it (and meet the guru!).
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
It's shown in the picture in post #1. It's a standard one with all the standard things.
d8veh, in the first picture of this thread, there is something similar to a thumb throttle. Is that a thumb throttle, or the 1-2 gear internal change?
I do not see any e-brake, either. I do not see e-brakes in the picture kits, either:
http://xiongdamotor.en.alibaba.com/product/1557215740-220560510/NEW_Invention_E_bike_Motor_with_CE_CCC_RoHS_Certificates.html
Is it just Xiongda does not bother to include them in the pictures, but in fact they should be included in the kit?
I do not see any e-brake, either. I do not see e-brakes in the picture kits, either:
http://xiongdamotor.en.alibaba.com/product/1557215740-220560510/NEW_Invention_E_bike_Motor_with_CE_CCC_RoHS_Certificates.html
Is it just Xiongda does not bother to include them in the pictures, but in fact they should be included in the kit?
The picture doesn't show the e-brake (two small wires) levers and throttle (3-pin white plug). The small round thing with a switch at the bottom of the picture is the Low/automatic/High gear selection. Just leave it in the middle and hide it in the controller box then the rest is fitted like with a rear hub kit.
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