Eskute voyager

Hi, so I recently bought an Eskute Voyager.

 

I'm wondering if I would be able to change the controller and display while keeping the motor?

 

I think my display is a kd21c.

Also were do I look about increasing the speed? I use this bike on private land so looking to get a bit more speed rather than sitting at 15mph.

 

Thankyou

In principle, you can use any controller with its matching LCD. Upgrading to a KT one will make your bike much nicer to ride. You'll have to do a bit of wiring and probably some soldering to wires.

Hi, so I recently bought an Eskute Voyager.

 

I'm wondering if I would be able to change the controller and display while keeping the motor?

 

I think my display is a kd21c.

Also were do I look about increasing the speed? I use this bike on private land so looking to get a bit more speed rather than sitting at 15mph.

 

Thankyou

 

What did you think of the bike?

 

I was looking at those earlier before I bought my conversion. They look like a fair bit for the money. Obviously, you have some issues or you wouldn't be changing the controller....

What did you think of the bike?

 

I was looking at those earlier before I bought my conversion. They look like a fair bit for the money. Obviously, you have some issues or you wouldn't be changing the controller....

To be honest it's a really nice bike, I just want a bit more power. The battery is really impressive!

Just a shame with the 250w motor

To be honest it's a really nice bike, I just want a bit more power. The battery is really impressive!

Just a shame with the 250w motor

250w motors are very strong and will give all the power you need. It's the controller that decides how much power it gets and converts into motive power.

Thanks for the info. Keep us posted on how your conversion goes. They are quite low cost. I also looked at the Wayfarer. In some ways that would suit me in its style, with mudguards and lights fitted, and though I ride on tracks, I am not a rough trail rider. The problem with that one is that the battery is of lower capacity and the 36 volt system is probably less peppy than the 48 volt one. If the controller can be changed easily, that might not be an issue, if the bigger 48 volt battery can also be swapped in. The batteries are not particularly expensive I think.

The Wayfarer doesn't use 36v but is a 40v/11s or 44 v/12s system so has a bit more pep then 36v.

The Wayfarer doesn't use 36v but is a 40v/11s or 44 v/12s system so has a bit more pep then 36v.

I think Tony1951 may be referring to the Eskute Wayfarer, which is 36v.

 

I've seen a few youtube reviews which suggest the OP's Eskute Voyager is a 48v system, but Eskute's own website product page says it's 36v?

Ah ok, we are talking of two differing bikes then with the same model name.

Ah ok, we are talking of two differing bikes then with the same model name.

 

Wayfarer as a model name is a bit obvious and maybe overused! But my dads first boat was a Wayfarer, so…

 

Our Wayfarer is 43.2V.

 

All the best, David

250w motors are very strong and will give all the power you need. It's the controller that decides how much power it gets and converts into motive power.

Hi, yeah this is the controller it currently has. What would you recommend? I am happy with the 250w hub

I'm just not sure we're to start with controllers and displays

Ah ok, we are talking of two differing bikes then with the same model name.

Yeah sorry, it's called am Eskute voyager Senior if that helps?

 

My battery is in the attached file. 36v with 12.5ah capacity 450w power!

Yeah sorry, it's called am Eskute voyager Senior if that helps?

 

My battery is in the attached file. 36v with 12.5ah capacity 450w power!

 

It's a dual voltage controller, one will find that the bike runs better at 48v with 30% more power then 36v using the same control system.

Changing the controller/display to 20a with the 36v battery will give it 25% more power, if capable one can try a shunt mod if the controller has the U shaped wire shunt this can also give up to 30% more power though the controller may run a bit warmer.

 

The shunt determines the resistance of current and one can add solder to one leg of the shunt to a sensible 25% of its length to gain a more current/power.

At the opposite end of the controller with no wiring undo the end plate and look to see if there is a U shaped wire copper object (this is the shunt), if one is careful solder can be applied up the leg of one side to change the resistance.

There's some major level of deception going on here. The OP says:

To be honest it's a really nice bike, I just want a bit more power.

And Neal comments:

...one will find that the bike runs better at 48v with 30% more power then 36v using the same control system.

Yet the Eskute Voyager e-bikes the reviewers were supplied are 48 volt systems, for example:

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=054sy7PCSwU:76

 

And Eskute's own phoney blog-post HERE clearly states:

 

"This particular series, the Voyager, is intended to do more than the Wayfarer, another e-bike of their current line. With a more powerful battery at 48 V and 10Ah totaling 480 Wh, the barrier of 100 km (62 miles) is visible. But of course, if there is a slight chance of modifying the speed limit, you'll be left with a lot less in the tank."

 

And yet, if you buy one, you get:

My battery is in the attached file. 36v with 12.5ah capacity 450w power!

 

Is it surprising that [mention=33351]Lemonjuicees[/mention] is disappointed when - if you buy one - it's a cheapened 36 volt version that will have 30% LESS PERFORMANCE than the review e-bikes that were supplied specifically to promote this product?

 

It seems like a deliberate deception to me.

The current advert on the Eskute website lists the battery as 36V 12.5AH and 450 watt hours.

 

The spec has changed from the initial release of the model.

 

There is no deception in making a change to product if it is currently advertised with the actual specs you are supplying.

The current advert on the Eskute website lists the battery as 36V 12.5AH and 450 watt hours.

 

The spec has changed from the initial release of the model.

 

There is no deception in making a change to product if it is currently advertised with the actual specs you are supplying.

 

Sorry, but that's just plain b0ll0cks. People look at the reviews, and among many factors considered, comment specifically on the above average torque available from the 48v system. Many will be swayed by such an advantage.

 

The product page does now state 36 volt 12.5AH, but the charger spec is still listed as a 56 volt charger... and the Voyager spare battery is listed as a 48 volt battery HERE.

 

If there is to be a major change that is to affect performance to that degree, such a change would need to be emphasised to allow the buyer to make a reasoned judgement. The ASA would certainly have a problem here.

You seem quite angry, with angry language. I'll leave you to it.

You seem quite angry, with angry language. I'll leave you to it.

Having worked in advertising, I know the rules. This is a clear breach in my view. You cannot promote a new product and sell a lesser one in its place.

 

For example, what if BMW launched and promoted a new car - lets call it a BMW Voyager model, with a powerful V6 4-litre engine, supplied en-mass to the press for free to review, and they were all reviewed very favourably commenting specifically on the available power.

 

Then buyers, swayed by these favourable reviews, placed an on-line order for the new BMW Voyager only to discover that when delivered, they had a wimpy 2-litre 4-cylinder engine instead?

 

That's deception in anybody's book.

 

Even you were duped. In post #6 you say:

 

The problem with that one [referring to the Eskute Wayfarer] is that the battery is of lower capacity and the 36 volt system is probably less peppy than the 48 volt one [of the Eskute Voyager].

 

Clearly, the Voyager is being supplied as a 36-volt system, NOT as a more powerful 48-volt as it's been promoted.

 

If I were the OP, I'd send it back.

Edited August 19, 20214 yr by cyclebuddy

Hi

Hi, yeah this is the controller it currently has. What would you recommend? I am happy with the 250w hub

I'm just not sure we're to start with controllers and displays

Hi , your bike has the standard '250' watt ' recipe' of 36 volts with a 15amp max controller so a theoretical 540watts. The Bafang motor fitted is also only entry level with a stated torque of 32nm. As Nealh said above changing the controller and display to a 20amp item would give you another 25% power up to 720watts peak.

Hi

 

Hi , your bike has the standard '250' watt ' recipe' of 36 volts with a 15amp max controller so a theoretical 540watts. The Bafang motor fitted is also only entry level with a stated torque of 32nm. As Nealh said above changing the controller and display to a 20amp item would give you another 25% power up to 720watts peak.

 

 

Sorry for the late reply, life!

 

Would there be any recommendations you can give?

I also spoke to Eskute to enquire about the 48v battery and they say it's not possible with my bike and told me I need to buy the new one they are offering

 

I don't mind the bike and I enjoy it, I just want to give it a bit more umph as I use it a lot off-road and on private land so just want to get the most out of it

 

I'm trying to determine what motor to get that fits too!

 

I also have tried to find an alternative battery so I don't have to go to Eskute themselves because they are just dreadful and communication is abysmal

Sorry, but that's just plain b0ll0cks. People look at the reviews, and among many factors considered, comment specifically on the above average torque available from the 48v system. Many will be swayed by such an advantage.

 

The product page does now state 36 volt 12.5AH, but the charger spec is still listed as a 56 volt charger... and the Voyager spare battery is listed as a 48 volt battery HERE.

 

If there is to be a major change that is to affect performance to that degree, such a change would need to be emphasised to allow the buyer to make a reasoned judgement. The ASA would certainly have a problem here.

 

 

 

Well, i received a 36v battery and when asked if i can put the 48v battery in they said i can not as the new model can only support it but its utter bull as the controller in the bike is a 36v/48v controller.

The company is a joke and always leave it in the dark when new batteries are coming into stock.

It's a dual voltage controller, one will find that the bike runs better at 48v with 30% more power then 36v using the same control system.

Changing the controller/display to 20a with the 36v battery will give it 25% more power, if capable one can try a shunt mod if the controller has the U shaped wire shunt this can also give up to 30% more power though the controller may run a bit warmer.

 

The shunt determines the resistance of current and one can add solder to one leg of the shunt to a sensible 25% of its length to gain a more current/power.

At the opposite end of the controller with no wiring undo the end plate and look to see if there is a U shaped wire copper object (this is the shunt), if one is careful solder can be applied up the leg of one side to change the resistance.

 

 

Is there any controllers/displays at 20A you recommend?

Well, i received a 36v battery and when asked if i can put the 48v battery in they said i can not as the new model can only support it but its utter bull as the controller in the bike is a 36v/48v controller.

The company is a joke and always leave it in the dark when new batteries are coming into stock.

I said my piece at the time you bought it.

 

The bike when newly launched was heavily promoted as a 48v system. All the reviews (in the press and on YT etc) raved about the power available, and that was especially heavily praised given the low cost of the bike. Given Eskute was a completely unknown brand at that time, they used the common method of supplying bikes for free to the press and "influencers" in exchange for their favourable reviews... but these were 48v bikes.

 

But what you actually got was a 36v system, which is nothing like the bike being promoted - on both their own website at the time and the many independent reviews, all made ( AFAIKS) using these 48v version bikes. Given this is a direct to consumer product, Distance Selling rules apply given you had no opportunity to visit a retailer to first examine, question, and test out the product for yourself.

 

You should have sent it back. Or if you're wealthy, had the time, and could be bothered on principle, sued the backside off them for false advertising. If you'd received a 48v system bike as promoted, I don't believe you'd be here now still complaining about the lack of power.

 

As for new batteries, that's an argument I do believe. I am myself awaiting supply of a new replacement battery. Some cells are in extremely short supply for a number of reasons, and many bike manufacturers are having trouble sourcing new stock.

Open the controller box, unscrew the end which is blank. Look in side and see if one can see a large capacitor, if it says 50v then no one can't use 48v battery but if it says 63v you should be ok. The fact it says 36v/48v means it is a dual voltage controller just like the KT's which are labelled the same.

Before wasting money or buying a new controller kit do the investigation of the controller inners and if 63v then hook up a 48v battery, if works then all good. The most that can happen is magic smoke will appear form the controller and blow some capacitors.

For 48v battery all one needs is at least 20a or 25a continuous rating the latter would be better. Ebay, Aliexpress, yose power, pswpower, risunuk or eclipse bikes are a good start, just check the specs of the battery before buying and it says 25a continuous not peak rating.

 

If after buying the battery, if one wants a new controller kit either because the controller does smoke or the speed doesn't increase then we can suggest one.

We need to see a pic of the battery in case it is a special case or a integrated type battery before suggesting one.