error code o3 lcd3 yosepower 350w kit

[footpump]

hi all have hit a problem similar to petebike post re throttle.
I decided to test my 350w kit with lcd3 no brake sensors fitted/pas not connected.
lcd displays comes on fine I set speed/wheel size etc and set p4-0 normal throttle.

tried throttle nothing working, then realised the lcd3 was not saving my settings so recalibrated.

lcd saving paramiters but no throttle but get error code 03 which is moter hall signall abnormality

but cable seems connected ok so what else can I check

 

[Nealh]

Check for a bent pin in connectors.
Check motor cable is fully home pushed to the marked line and no bent pins inside.
Remove throttle and If you have a bike stand use it with the bikes rear wheel off the ground, plug the sensor in to the controller and rotate the V12L to ensure motor works.
If it works then throttle may be at fault.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I bet the cable connector isn't pushed all the way in.

 

[footpump]

thanks nealh and d8veh moter cable not fully home.
pas and throttle working ok set to 32kmp no load speed throttle 20mph.

now I need to sort out cable run but am unsure about the battery lead and controller battery lead , which are to long.

the battery mount that's fitted suits dolphin 09 , I have 2 dolphins 13ah and a new 17ah which I can swop between the kudos and my subway bike.

but am awaiting new enerprof softpak which has xt60 connection.
I want to compare softpack 13.8ah mj1 cells vs 17ah dolphin on the bike 350w then do a shunt mod on the 15amp controller and compare again.

also have 2 bottle batteries so I don't know what is the best option re connecters or what cable to trim (controller cable/battery lead)

don't want to go battery in series rout
but would rather seek advice so no (c*ck ups) pic attatched

 

[Deleted member 4366]

You can use a small frame too-bag to hide excess wire in, then you have somewhere to carry puncture repair kit, phone, etc as well.

 

[Nealh]

Putting your batteries in series will blow the controller as you will be feeding it 72v . If you want to do any battery joining then they need paralleling black to black and red to red to combine the ah and voltage needs to be similar < 0.5v.

 

[footpump]

thanks nealh I do not want to put battries in series , but cables are long and 3 of the batteries have different connecters bullet/xt60/ and another type.

trying to standardise connectors to xt60? but having tried to solder a xt60 with the 14g lead from the battery carrier or to renew the wire to dolphin frame mount male battery pins is proving very difficult

 

[anotherkiwi]

but having tried to solder a xt60 with the 14g lead from the battery carrier or to renew the wire to dolphin frame mount male battery pins is proving very difficult

It is an art form isn't it

- tin your silicon wire, use lots of solder
- use a third hand to hold the XT with the cups facing upwards
- heat the cup with the solder wire touching it, as soon as it fuses withdraw the soldering iron
- present your tinned wire to the cup and re-heat until it fuses

I use my big iron for XT60s. So far I have put them on 4 LiPo packs, my Wattmeter, controller, battery extension lead and my 10.4 A bottle battery only destroying (by melting the plastic) 2 in the process, I wasn't concentrated that day...

 

[harrys]

When you have that many batteries, I would figure that a soldering iron is a requirement. I like XT60's with silicone wire for my lower power bikes. They should be easy to solder with only a 100W iron.

I use rosin core tin-lead solder. Some shops only stock a "safer" higher temperature silver blend. Impossible for electrical work without the right gear, and that would melt an XT60 quick.

I bought some of that new stuff last month when I misplaced my old stock of solder. It was awful. Perhaps you are using that no good solder.

 

[footpump]

hi all a couple of weeks back had a practise run on soldering an xt60 with 14g wire, xt held in a pair of pliers soldering iron maplins 30w but increases to 130w when the trigger is pressed
was not a success pin got hot and partially melted plastic.

a few you tube vids re soldering xt60, it seems some xts have plastic that melts before you can solder including some hobbyking ones.
so order flux/resin core solder/helping hand.

today bite the bullet and wish to shorten the yosepowers 350w controller to battery lead which has bullet connections as (has cmy yosepower 17ah battery mount) xt60 in drill vice and using helping hand
put red/black shrink wrap on cable tin and solder to xt60 only to find the heat has travelled up the cable and shrunk the heat wrap.

I cannot move the shrink wrap and have exposed terminals, I then realise I have soldered a female xt instead of a male. so have to start over.

most of my soldering irons are for smaller stuff not too sure about the solder as sometimes the tinning seems a grey colour rather than bright?

 

[anotherkiwi]

I also learnt to heatsink the silicon wire when I used heat shrink. Now I use the HK XT60s with built in insulation. The grey colour is because you have gone too hot, doesn't seem to alter the quality of the solder though.

A wide 60-80 W iron is the ideal tool.

 

[harrys]

Plug two XT60's together. Then if you clamp the opposite end of the terminal you plan to solder in a vise or vise-grips or your helping hand tool, there will be some heat transfer that will help keep you from melting the plastic.

I'll fill the inside of the terminal with solder. Then lay the tinned wire in and heat the wire.

 

[footpump]

hi all I need more practise cheapo 100w iron ordered from ebay
I assume these are the (insulated xt60) I have on closer inspection realised they have a divider so pos and neg cannot touch.
no prizes for that's not the best soldered xt60 I have seen

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I don't understand why you want to use connectors. It's not like you need to take the controller off when you charge the bike or go shopping. I always solder my battery wires. If you ever need to change the controller, cut the wires and solder on the next. It's a lot quicker, easier, cheaper and more reliable than connectors.

 

[harrys]

Depends on what you use for batteries and where you put them. I went batteries in a bag for our 20" folders. Smaller ones fit under the seat. For a long ride, I put two or more in a bag on the rear rack, Connectors make that happen.

In time, I rewired my other bikes that had soldered up battery cradles with XT60's so I could carry and use the spares on them too.

\

 

[footpump]

d8veh I have 2 ebikes each will have dolphin o9 battery mounts.
and will be able to swop 13ah and 17ah batteries between the 2.
I have ordered a enerprof 13.8ah softpack from Germany which I have yet to receive which has xt60 connecter and has mj1 cells.

I want to compare the softpack vs 17ah dolphin batteries.

I also have 2 bottle batteries which I could use, so the only way I can see to utalise all my batteries is either carry bottle battery as a spare and plug into xt60 from controller or remove dolphin battery mount and replace with bottle mount

 

[Deleted member 4366]

If both bikes have the same dolphin mount, you can swap batteries without touching the mount! Why don't you just standardise your battery type rather than get different ones?