ERider moped Help

[Nealh]

You bought a used working moped, it was probably as described.
Caveat Emptor and all that, you made the mistake of not checking the bike out properly before handing money over.

 

[billyboya]

If you try all my tips to get range, don't be surprised if you get really bored riding up and down that road for 8 or more miles!

I'm guessing that when you collected the moped you enthusiastically tried it with full throttle from a standstill and all the time afterwards to see how well it went, only natural, we'd all do that. And the tyres may not have been fully up to pressure.
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Hi flecc yes I did drive away from sellers house like you said full throttle. Well I think I may have sorted it not 100% far from it. I just took it for a short ride it was going ok I never had throttle open full just cruising along went about 1/2 mile seemed ok. I turned off ignition as I was near some nice scenery so thought well I may as well try to put that chain back on as it came off when I 1st got home. couldn't get chain back so left it until later day. soon as I turned on ignition again, same as before dead. I looked at panel and as you can see in picture it says 52.6Volts so I thought that's weird as batt wasn't flat then. so I just removed battery pack replaced back. turned ignition on /off a few times bugger me it was working again, But Im a bit confused as back wheel was turning as i had it on stand and i had not even turned throttle so to drive off I had to make sure brake was on then release to move. like its had some throttle on. with out me touching it. I have now checked battery at home and it said 52Volts. I believe the other day it said 53.6Volts

now what's puzzling me Which I think maybe could be the problem is when I removed lid from batt box test batt from those 3 pin connectors IE: red + Black - its fine 52V then I unplug from lead to the 3 pin connector so batt is removable still 52V But now here is what I think maybe problem but say batt case has not been opened and I hold red and black wire from tester onto the 2 pins nothing happens so do you think its that 3 pin thing

in the screenshot I tested those 2 pins and nothing, But now I have removed it its working lol. it could also be the ignition barrel

 

[billyboya]

You bought a used working moped, it was probably as described.
Caveat Emptor and all that, you made the mistake of not checking the bike out properly before handing money over.

Yep guilty as charged sir, whats Caveat Emptor mean never heard of that

We all make mistakes as the hedgehog said to the wire brush. yes you are 100% correct I let my excitement get carried away

 

[Nealh]

The battery is a 48v one, looks like a lipo. Voltage wise it will have the same top end charge of 54.6v and higher discharge low end of about 45v.

 

[Nealh]

Caveat emptor latin for buyer beware.

 

[Nealh]

Now the battery is charged is the moped working now ?

 

[billyboya]

Now the battery is charged is the moped working now ?

No and yes Like I said above to flecc soon as I turned off ignition, tried to replace chain, but couldn't turned ignition back on again nothing so removed battery under floor replaced fiddled with key it started again as was on 52.6 v

 

[Nealh]

Sounds like you need a new keyed switch, have a loose/faulty switch connection or another bad wire connection somewhere.
The battery is likely fine and will get you about 10miles if you are lucky.

 

[Andy-Mat]

Yep guilty as charged sir, whats Caveat Emptor mean never heard of that

We all make mistakes as the hedgehog said to the wire brush. yes you are 100% correct I let my excitement get carried away

"Buyer beware!" in Latin.
It is generally well known.....
Andy

 

[billyboya]

Sounds like you need a new keyed switch, have a loose/faulty switch connection or another bad wire connection somewhere.
The battery is likely fine and will get you about 10miles if you are lucky.

Yes I was thinking maybe battery is ok, but its the ignition barrel. I wont have a clue how to check that, maybe its best if I take bike or hope it will get me to a place where they check wiring. But dont know if they do bikes mostly cars I think. I mean even when I had to push bike home the 1st time. it only took 30 mins to charge up bike again. and I'm sure it wasn't flat then. I will try and see if I can find any loose wires

What I am confused about is what is that black wire from battery for then as it seems to go to a charging port, but the 3 pin surely must be charge port but was told its discharge port so what's other one

 

[vfr400]

Yes I was thinking maybe battery is ok, but its the ignition barrel. I wont have a clue how to check that, maybe its best if I take bike or hope it will get me to a place where they check wiring. But dont know if they do bikes mostly cars I think. I mean even when I had to push bike home the 1st time. it only took 30 mins to charge up bike again. and I'm sure it wasn't flat then. I will try and see if I can find any loose wires

What I am confused about is what is that black wire from battery for then as it seems to go to a charging port, but the 3 pin surely must be charge port but was told its discharge port so what's other one

I had to replace the ignition switch on one of those bikes. I don't think they're up to the job. The one I fixed didn't work at all.

 

[wheeliepete]

What I am confused about is what is that black wire from battery for then as it seems to go to a charging port, but the 3 pin surely must be charge port but was told its discharge port so what's other one

That black wire is TWO wires, + and - and as I said, is the connector to charge the battery through the BMS. The battery you have is not from Erider, so the connector on your Erider charger does not match the connector on the battery. Erider batteries use the same wires/connector to charge the battery and to power the bike. It's prob. best to find the source of the bad connection on your switch before deciding if the battery needs replacing.

 

[billyboya]

I had to replace the ignition switch on one of those bikes. I don't think they're up to the job. The one I fixed didn't work at all.

Well I can’t say for definite if it is the ignition barrel but it does seem it could be as every time you have stopped turned off bike. Then go back to it that’s when it seems to be ok again. Maybe I should have tried that the time I had to push it all way home dam hard work. I won’t even have a clue how to remove one to check

That black wire is TWO wires, + and - and as I said, is the connector to charge the battery through the BMS. The battery you have is not from Erider, so the connector on your Erider charger does not match the connector on the battery. Erider batteries use the same wires/connector to charge the battery and to power the bike. It's prob. best to find the source of the bad connection on your switch before deciding if the battery needs replacing.

I’m really sorry but I don’t understand what you mean as that 3pin discharge plug surely is where you charge up battery as it has same plug on bike. And there is just 2 wires to that 3 pin red black. But there is another single black wire to this other connector which I still don’t know what it’s for are you saying that single connector is the plug to charge battery I’m so confused now

 

[billyboya]

That 3 pin connector must be to charge battery, as today battery said 52.1Volts and I have now plugged in that charger what plugs into the 3 pin socket on batt case, and battery now says 53.2Volts so its defo charging it. I still cannot see what you mean about that single Black wire. what go to that single connector what does look like where you plug in a single pin charger so Now I'm totally baffled what the black wire does. yet you say its 2 wires well unless my eyes are bad its just 1 black wire, can anyone else here confirm what that other connector is. btw this seller at 1st used wrong charger , as he said he contacted ebikes, and they told him the charger he is using is for SLA batteries. so he bought this 3 pin charger I have now which they said is for Lithium batteries

Also would anyone here knows how to remove ignition barrel on a ERider Model 15

Plus I forgot to mention on the right handle bars there is another key slot, and some sort of meter near it. but seller said he don't know what that's for plus he only had the one key, and it don't fit that. I will try to remember to take a photo of it later and upload

 

[billyboya]

this is that 3 pin connector on battery case and also the single black wire one but don't know what the single one is for as I use the 3 pin connector to charge batt.

 

[wheeliepete]

I sorry if i have caused you confusion, I can only comment on what I see in your photos, I'm just trying to advise you on the correct, safe way to charge your battery. I freely admit i am not the best when it comes to remote assistance/advise. Maybe someone else can advise in a clearer way you can understand. I think you need to try and find someone local to assist you with this project.

 

[Nealh]

I concur with Pete, from what I see the 2nd pic is a DC jack charge point 5.5mm x 2.1mm or 2.5mm. The pin in the middle is V+ contact and the metal barrel inside is the V-, in side the Black wire you talk there are two thinner wires (one Red/one Black) the outer is just a pvc sheath. It isn't man enough for discharge and will be capable of about 4-7a max.

The kettle plug type is the discharge unless you aren't showing everything one has to use logic. The bike will be discharging some 20a plus I would say.

It's likely you are bypassing the BMS if the lipo/battery has one and reverse charging. You need to trace that jack plug (pic # 2) and find out exactly where the end goes, instead of guessing and taking chances.

 

[vfr400]

Your picturein post#1 clearly shows that the kettle socket is the discharge socket to power the bike and the 5.5mm jack socket is the charge socket. You should only charge through the 5.5mm one if you want to avoid an explosion and fire.

Whatever connector you have on the charger, you must change it to a 5.5mm jack. Bear in mind that the colours of charger wires are often the wrong way round, so always test with a meter after fitting a new connector and beefore inserting into the battery, otherwise you get a big bang.

 

[wheeliepete]

Thanks guys, I was beginning to think I was typing in Chinese. I've worked on a couple of similar bikes recently and 1 a while back and they all seem to have shared charge/discharge ports with cheap 2 wire BMS's on the lithium packs. Because the OP has a Erider charger and the connector matches the discharge port on the battery, he can't understand that it's not correct.

 

[Nealh]

No going mad Pete, it's hard sometimes making someone see sense. Some tbh shouldn't be playing with fire. The OP has no idea what has been done to the scooter except the battery isn't the usual one, that doesn't mean the seller either knew much of what they were doing.