ERider moped Help

[billyboya]

Hi all I purchased a 2nd hand ERider Electric Moped, I'm not sure if this is the right place to post but apologies if its not

Ok I got done down on the moped I paid man £350 for it, rode from his home to near mine, which is about 5 miles maybe less, then when I went to go to my brothers to show him moped battery was flat. I tried ringing the seller. all I kept getting was messaging service, he did text just once saying do I mean battery is flat or Tyre, I replied in a text battery, that was it never heard back no more, and now if I ring his number it says unavailable. I know where he lives and went to his today, but no one answered door.

had to push bike all way home to mine, from about 3 miles to mine, bloody heavy too bike is. so I opened battery case last night when got in doors and no way is this the right battery for the moped no wonder it went flat. I have attached some screenshots of battery. But would anyone here know what battery I would need for this ERider Moped. I can see the battery inside case is Lithium, But Have a funny feeling there was probably 2 lead acid batteries before. I would prefer Lithium battery for it but don't know what one to get. I don't even know model number of moped all it says on side is ERider. also on the pictures i have uploaded what is that suppose to be in green circle I thought maybe a fuse, But it looks like a bike tube connecter

Hope someone can tell me what battery I require for this ERider Moped

 

[flecc]

Depends which sort of their mopeds it is. If it's their bicycle class model 18 or model 21, they are 250 watt rated and normally use 48 volt circa 20 A/hr lithium batteries.

They are on this web page:

Electric Bikes | Twist and Go Electric Bikes | UK Delivery | E-Rider Bikes

E-Rider is the UK's leading supplier of electric bikes & E Bikes! We offer great prices & after sale support - Browse our selection of E Bikes online today!

eriderbikes.com

If yours is different, email them on their Contact link and attach a photo of your bike, asking what battery it should use.
.

 

[billyboya]

Hi many thanks flecc your your help, Im not sure what model bike is as I don't know where it shows model on the moped, But I will take a photo of moped and mail ERider

 

[billyboya]

Im a bit confused really if it is the battery fault. Well obviously its not the correct battery on bike now as when I left the sellers home, it went about 5 miles, then was flat. but when I managed to push bike to brothers house, he put battery on a charge for 3 hours and rang me to say its charged up as light went green. but after leaving his house, the battery went flat only after about. 1/2 mile. so would this be another fault or still the battery. also how do you test the battery charge with a multimeter this is the meter I have where do you switch dial to and I know red wire on batt is + and black is - I have also decided to show you all the ERider bike i have there is a lot of images

 

[flecc]

Im a bit confused really if it is the battery fault. Well obviously its not the correct battery on bike now as when I left the sellers home, it went about 5 miles, then was flat. but when I managed to push bike to brothers house, he put battery on a charge for 3 hours and rang me to say its charged up as light went green. but after leaving his house, the battery went flat only after about. 1/2 mile. so would this be another fault or still the battery. also how do you test the battery charge with a multimeter this is the meter I have where do you switch dial to and I know red wire on batt is + and black is - I have also decided to show you all the ERider bike i have there is a lot of images

I don't personally know these since we deal with true electric assist bicycles rather than pedal assist mopeds, but since it ran ok for 5 miles the problem is virtually certain to be that battery. Check it's voltage. Turn the meter switch two positions left to the 200 volts position, then use the two probes on the two battery connections and read off the voltage. It's likely to be 48 volts on one of these.

Also have you tried fully charging it yourself and then trying its range? I have the impression you've just trusted the seller did it.

It would be a good idea to email e-rider with the photo of that battery too for their comments. Their answer may tell you all you need to know.
.

 

[billyboya]

I don't personally know these since we deal with true electric assist bicycles rather than pedal assist mopeds, but since it ran ok for 5 miles the problem is virtually certain to be that battery. Check it's voltage. Turn the meter switch two positions left to the 200 volts position, then use the two probes on the two battery connections and read off the voltage. It's likely to be 48 volts on one of these.

Also have you tried fully charging it yourself and then trying its range? I have the impression you've just trusted the seller did it.

It would be a good idea to email e-rider with the photo of that battery too for their comments. Their answer may tell you all you need to know.
.

Hi flecc many thanks for your reply its been most helpful. I just tested battery as you said and it said 53.6 V is that right as seems higher than 48 v Yes I have placed battery on a charger myself , and also I have sent pictures of bike and battery to ERider But I'm sure as you can see by size of that battery it cant be right one. as all that space in the black batt case

 

[flecc]

Hi flecc many thanks for your reply its been most helpful. I just tested battery as you said and it said 53.6 V is that right as seems higher than 48 v Yes I have placed battery on a charger myself , and also I have sent pictures of bike and battery to ERider But I'm sure as you can see by size of that battery it cant be right one. as all that space in the black batt case

Yes that's ok, slightly low since the battery is discharged. The 48 volts is a nominal number, the fully charge voltage nearer 55 volts.

I wouldn't place too much importance on the space in the battery casing since the same body shells are used on various versions of these. Those without pedals can be 2000 or 3000 watts instead of 250 watt rated, with much bigger batteries and in earlier times with bulkier lead acid batteries.

Once you have e-rider's answer all may be much clearer and it will be interesting to see what mileage you get once you've fully charged it. Don't stray too far from home after the first 3 or 4 miles though, you won't want to be pushing it again!
.

 

[billyboya]

Yes that's ok, slightly low since the battery is discharged. The 48 volts is a nominal number, the fully charge voltage nearer 55 volts.

I wouldn't place too much importance on the space in the battery casing since the same body shells are used on various versions of these. Those without pedals can be 2000 or 3000 watts instead of 250 watt rated, with much bigger batteries and in earlier times with bulkier lead acid batteries.

Once you have e-rider's answer all may be much clearer and it will be interesting to see what mileage you get once you've fully charged it. Don't stray too far from home after the first 3 or 4 miles though, you won't want to be pushing it again!
.

Once again your help is most appreciated, to be honest, I would love to get my £350 back from the seller. its a private seller, I have his address plus also mobile number, but now when you ring his number it just says number unavailable, and I went round his house yesterday, I had wrote out a note for him, in case he was not in. which he wasn't, or could have been as heard his dog barking. but that don't mean he was in. so popped letter in his letter box. But he has not replied back. But brother was saying well if he has removed his sim from mobile maybe he cant phone you as your number will probably be on his old sim. so I am going again on Monday, its a good bus ride away. and will put another letter in his door with my mobile number on in case. But I am very doubtful he will give me £350 cash back. not when bike is stuck at mine. the police don't want to know

 

[vfr400]

First question is where do you live? If you're anywhere near me, I might be able to help you.

Those mopeds normally have higher current controllers than ebikes, so you probably need a battery that can provide 25 amps continuous. Without pedaling, 10Ah will get you something like 5 to 10 miles, so you need about 20Ah to get a decent range, depending on how fast you go. The original battery was probably 4 x 12Ah SLAs, which would be about £100 to replace with new ones. If you go that route, make sure that you get ones for elctric vehicles.

If you can, have a look at the controller to see what current is written on it. That will give a big clue to what you need, batterywise.

 

[billyboya]

First question is where do you live? If you're anywhere near me, I might be able to help you.

Those mopeds normally have higher current controllers than ebikes, so you probably need a battery that can provide 25 amps continuous. Without pedaling, 10Ah will get you something like 5 to 10 miles, so you need about 20Ah to get a decent range, depending on how fast you go. The original battery was probably 4 x 12Ah SLAs, which would be about £100 to replace with new ones. If you go that route, make sure that you get ones for elctric vehicles.

If you can, have a look at the controller to see what current is written on it. That will give a big clue to what you need, batterywise.

Hi vfr400 many thanks for replying, I am in Norfolk, But very much doubt you are near me

flecc said 48 volt circa 20 A/hr lithium 250 watts I dont know where the controller is unless you can tell me by what picture I posted above where it is on bike I am not getting another new battery just yet until person who sold me dud battery responds back, but I'm very doubtful he will. so this is reason why I would need to buy a new battery, as look at the battery he had in the bike. I have tested it, with fleccs help and it said 53.6 Volts flecc said its a bit low, as it should be at least 55 Volts. But when I left the sellers house it went a good 5 miles all fine. then went flat. I pushed it to my brothers house bloody hard work too. he charged up the battery took him 3 hours. I left his house and it only went about 1/2 mile and went flat again. which seems weird to me. as light on charger went green. the pedals on the moped do they actually help to charge up battery then if you pedal and also have throttle open too then. as cant see how. and also I think it would be dam hard work trying to pedal with no throttle. I keep banging my leg on left pedal when pushing it. can the pedal just be removed to push bike. then obviously replaced back again

 

[Andy-Mat]

Hi all I purchased a 2nd hand ERider Electric Moped, I'm not sure if this is the right place to post but apologies if its not

Ok I got done down on the moped I paid man £350 for it, rode from his home to near mine, which is about 5 miles maybe less, then when I went to go to my brothers to show him moped battery was flat. I tried ringing the seller. all I kept getting was messaging service, he did text just once saying do I mean battery is flat or Tyre, I replied in a text battery, that was it never heard back no more, and now if I ring his number it says unavailable. I know where he lives and went to his today, but no one answered door.

had to push bike all way home to mine, from about 3 miles to mine, bloody heavy too bike is. so I opened battery case last night when got in doors and no way is this the right battery for the moped no wonder it went flat. I have attached some screenshots of battery. But would anyone here know what battery I would need for this ERider Moped. I can see the battery inside case is Lithium, But Have a funny feeling there was probably 2 lead acid batteries before. I would prefer Lithium battery for it but don't know what one to get. I don't even know model number of moped all it says on side is ERider. also on the pictures i have uploaded what is that suppose to be in green circle I thought maybe a fuse, But it looks like a bike tube connecter

Hope someone can tell me what battery I require for this ERider Moped


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Battery problems are IMHO, the main reason that people sell e-bikes.
Not declaring that is also common. Caveat emptor!
My tip would be to take a bike for a 20 mile run, before parting with any money.
But the tip is not originally from me, but from another member here, some time ago. I agree with it.....
Being a good electric DIYer, is important for having an e-bike too!
Best wishes for a speedy and reasonably priced fix.
Basically, an e-bike with a bad battery is as good as worthless.....
regards
Andy
PS. There are new bikes around that cost approximately what you paid, plus possibly a delivery charge. Import duties may also need to be paid.....

 

[vfr400]

Hi vfr400 many thanks for replying, I am in Norfolk, But very much doubt you are near me

flecc said 48 volt circa 20 A/hr lithium 250 watts I dont know where the controller is unless you can tell me by what picture I posted above where it is on bike I am not getting another new battery just yet until person who sold me dud battery responds back, but I'm very doubtful he will. so this is reason why I would need to buy a new battery, as look at the battery he had in the bike. I have tested it, with fleccs help and it said 53.6 Volts flecc said its a bit low, as it should be at least 55 Volts. But when I left the sellers house it went a good 5 miles all fine. then went flat. I pushed it to my brothers house bloody hard work too. he charged up the battery took him 3 hours. I left his house and it only went about 1/2 mile and went flat again. which seems weird to me. as light on charger went green. the pedals on the moped do they actually help to charge up battery then if you pedal and also have throttle open too then. as cant see how. and also I think it would be dam hard work trying to pedal with no throttle. I keep banging my leg on left pedal when pushing it. can the pedal just be removed to push bike. then obviously replaced back again

No, it doesn't charge when you pedal. Other bikes like that that I've seen had a normal pedal sensor. When you turn the pedals, they give power. You can set them to have an independent throttle or throttle that only works when you pedal.

 

[billyboya]

Battery problems are IMHO, the main reason that people sell e-bikes.
Not declaring that is also common. Caveat emptor!
My tip would be to take a bike for a 20 mile run, before parting with any money.
But the tip is not originally from me, but from another member here, some time ago. I agree with it.....
Being a good electric DIYer, is important for having an e-bike too!
Best wishes for a speedy and reasonably priced fix.
Basically, an e-bike with a bad battery is as good as worthless.....
regards
Andy
PS. There are new bikes around that cost approximately what you paid, plus possibly a delivery charge. Import duties may also need to be paid.....

Hi Andy-Mat yes I expect you are right regarding the main reason that people sell e-bikes.

Well how could I have taken the bike for a run 1st with not paying him. Mind you also I couldn't see him letting me pay him half money then take bike for a good run. as say it went flat which it did after 5 miles. it nearly killed me pushing it. I will be 70 this year, so didn't need all that. Plus the dam pedals kept banging my leg. I should have taken some tools so at least I could have taking 1 pedal off the side I was pushing it on left side.

as for buying a normal bike I'm afraid at my age its impossible, as got arthritis in knees hence a electric bike

 

[billyboya]

No, it doesn't charge when you pedal. Other bikes like that that I've seen had a normal pedal sensor. When you turn the pedals, they give power. You can set them to have an independent throttle or throttle that only works when you pedal.

Hi vfr400 many thanks to you also for replying its most appreciated believe me. you never said where the controller was on the moped. as you said

If you can, have a look at the controller to see what current is written on it. That will give a big clue to what you need, batterywise.

so regarding pedals do you use them or not with throttle fully open or are they just so bike don't need road tax or ins. I cant see me pedalling moped when the battery went flat. would be very hard work. so when are pedals used.

Also while I am still typing here, what is the cost of a new ERider 48v battery cheap as possible if there is a place. I did put a 24v Lithium battery on a electric bike I believe it was from a web site called Aliexpress

 

[wheeliepete]

The controller will prob. be under the seat, around that area. You don't need to pedal when you ride, but they are there to make the bike legal.

 

[vfr400]

You'll probably have to remove panels to get at the controller. You might be able to see it if you look from underneath the bike. It's attached both to the battery wires and the motor cable, so just look where they go and you'll come to it.

If you're throttle is set to work on its own, you don't need to worry about the pedal sensor.

 

[billyboya]

The controller will prob. be under the seat, around that area. You don't need to pedal when you ride, but they are there to make the bike legal.

Hi wheeliepete thanks for your reply, under the seat there is a white box and according to the dodgy seller who conned me with bike, said if you switch that lever over on that white box it will disable the electrics so will that be what you mean . Im a bit devastated with bike as I was sold a dud battery. I have sent pictures of Bike to ERider web site. and I see model 15 is £325 I dam well hope my bike is not that much. I have seen a few lithium ones on a web site called Aliexpress, saw one saying £110 not sure if its right one for bike. then underneath it says £47 shipping bloody hell I thought

 

[billyboya]

You'll probably have to remove panels to get at the controller. You might be able to see it if you look from underneath the bike. It's attached both to the battery wires and the motor cable, so just look where they go and you'll come to it.

If you're throttle is set to work on its own, you don't need to worry about the pedal sensor.

I wont be able to look underneath mate as Im 70 this year and got bad knee problems. I have never had a ERider Moped so dont know what panels to remove etc. but read what I replied to wheeliepete about that white box thing under seat

If you're throttle is set to work on its own, you don't need to worry about the pedal sensor.

How do you mean throttle work on its own

 

[vfr400]

I wont be able to look underneath mate as Im 70 this year and got bad knee problems. I have never had a ERider Moped so dont know what panels to remove etc. but read what I replied to wheeliepete about that white box thing under seat



How do you mean throttle work on its own

Get a friend/neighbour/grandson or anybody like that to do it for you. DO NOT buy any battery until you know what current is written on the controller. I can guarantee that a £110 one won't work on your bike unless it's SLAs which would give yo a range of less than 10 miles and are very heavy. Lithium will be around £300 to £400.

 

[flecc]

I see model 15 is £325 I dam well hope my bike is not that much.

As vfr400 confirms, a suitable battery will be in that region.

But look at it this way. You know that moped runs ok and from the photo you took it looks smart and quite recent. So for around £700 to £800 you'd have a decent pedelec moped you could enjoy. There's not much new at that sort of price.

Otherwise it may mean just writing off the £350 you paid as a dead loss.
.