Enough Power for a Pensioner on Steep Hills
- Thread starter Stewart Lochhead
- Start date
Torque figures are nonsense. Everybody has their own interpretation of what it means. Motors give torque according to how much power and voltage they get. It's not an inherent characteristic. Santana and Raleigh are both 36v. I think the original HESC one was 16 amps aand possibly 20A now. I don't know which one the Raleigh has, probably 16A if OP couldn't get up a hill, in which case 20A would give a 25% advantage. I say it's safer to go with 48v.
his Raleigh has the worst possible combination for a steep hill: torque sensor + hub motor.
He can probably gets up to the top of Winsley Hill on the Santana but at 90kg his own weight, I think he would be better off with a BBS01 48V crank drive kit.
I will test a 48V DWG22C on the Santana when I have time. That will certainly solve his problem.
The cost with 48V 15AH will be comparable to the Santana with 36V 17AH and has greater range.
He can probably gets up to the top of Winsley Hill on the Santana but at 90kg his own weight, I think he would be better off with a BBS01 48V crank drive kit.
I will test a 48V DWG22C on the Santana when I have time. That will certainly solve his problem.
The cost with 48V 15AH will be comparable to the Santana with 36V 17AH and has greater range.
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Have you tried the Suntour torque sensor? It's sort of half-way between a cadence sensor and a Bosch. I quite like it actually, but I prefer the control you get from a normal cadence sensor system. It's a set of springs on the crank, which make the outer move relative to the inner. I don't know how it's calibrated, but you don't need to pedal hard to get max power. You can even remove a spring or two if you want to get the power even easier. I did that for someone once.
i said to the manager at https://www.theelectricbikeshop.co.uk/stores/ if they was going to put bbs hd on all the normal cube bikes and get the motors from there agent Neil at cogs.
Torque in itself has no relevance unless both, referenced to the road wheel and the road wheel's radius; it's the "pushing" force that torque develops to move the bike that matters.
Power only effects how fast the bike moves, not the hills it can climb, unless it is moving so slowly you can't then maintain your balance on the bike as it climbs.
Power only effects how fast the bike moves, not the hills it can climb, unless it is moving so slowly you can't then maintain your balance on the bike as it climbs.
I think you'd be disappointed with anything other than a powerful crank drive. None of the hills I normally have to haul my trailer up are very long, but some are steep.
Heaviest haul with the Homcom trailer so far
Mine is the only bike trailer I have ever seen in my area, and it was unnerving towing it on the road while some drivers allowed me the same space as nomal ie none - despite the flag on the passing side. After much weight loss, I now only weigh 63.5kg. The trailer plus heaviest cargo hauled...
www.pedelecs.co.uk
I strongly suggest you buy a big battery with good quality cells, because voltage sag could be a problem on your long hill section. One of our battery boffins may advise. This incline for example, is no problem for my 36V BBS01B conversion, even when hauling a heavy bike trailer:
Progress is slow but steady.
That happens on my 20" wheeled bike uphill, when fitted with a 42 chainwheel. I use 52T for speed, and the BBS01B still copes well with hills, even when hauling.
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Or a Brompton or similar that you can take on the D1 bus.
I take my BBS01B converted 20" wheeled Dahon Helios folding bike on the bus sometimes, more often on trains.Or a Brompton or similar that you can take on the D1 bus.
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