electric moped fault

[Nealh]

Testing and back tracking the work you have already done, is part and parcel of fault finding.
The Halls failed before so also can in the future, Hall testing and mosfet are pretty simple to do and only takes 10 mnis or less to carry them out, once done as I said it at least rules out two issues.

 

[billyboya]

If an average was taken then 49.5v mean seach cell group is at 3.807v or approx. 55 - 62%.
However one can only assume this is what may be so, if it were so then the bike should run.

But if one cell group is out of balance it possibly could be 0.2, 0.3v or more out of balance which would mean that one group could be at 3.4v - 3.6v, it wouldn't take much for voltage sag to send that cell group beyond lvc and cutting off.
A battey pack is only as healthy as the weakest cell or cell group.
So unless a definitive answer is known, the unknown remains jsut that and we can only summise whay is a happening with the battery.

So much has happened to this bike that the fault could be any where, it may even be back in the motor and the Hall sensors you replaced.
Carry out a Hall test again to see they read 4.3v - 5v and they switch when turning the motor by hand and also carry out the mosfet tests again, which you have done all before in your main erider thread.
These two tests would rule out two possibilites.

Regarding what you said about checking hall sensors and phase wires I’m sure they are ok, as why did motor run since it’s been in my flat. As like I said it went at 1st. I’m also wondering if it’s because of using this new controller. As ERider 15 model had SLA. Batteries but also the idiot seller had been messing with the wiring. As can you remember you mentioned once that the red wire from controller should go to black or something like that but on moped it’s a green/yellow going to the thick red at controller. So maybe this new controller is wired different. I’m going to try original controller. But still need to find out about battery

 

[Nealh]

I doubt if I would have said connect Red to Black as that would be totally irrational thing to say unless wiring up batteries in series.

 

[billyboya]

I doubt if I would have said connect Red to Black as that would be totally irrational thing to say unless wirng up batteries in series.

No I don’t mean you said it 100% but can you remember when I said about how three wires was linked to a 3 wired box. And I said about what wires I showed and you said that don’t seem right. Then I said well motor is running ok.

I’m not on my PC now but will send a image of those wires

and I believe you mentioned why is that middle white covered wire going to thick black to controller, and that green/yellow to that thick red to controller.

But like I said previous owner, not the seller had messed with wires. that wire covered in white sleeve the other end of that is to power plug positive what you plug into battery

 

[billyboya]

Testing and back tracking the work you have already done, is part and parcel of fault finding.
The Halls failed before so also can in the future, Hall testing and mosfet are pretty simple to do and only takes 10 mnis or less to carry them out, once done as I said it at least rules out two issues.

when you say it takes 10 mins it means removing chain. Torque arms, wheel nuts motor case both sides plus then removing motor. With a gear puller. So it’s going to take more than 10 mins. I was hoping of not needing to do that. But will have to if nothing else works.

 

[Nealh]

One can test mosfets and hall sensors all via the controller wiring, the hall sensor wiring goes direct to the controller.

 

[billyboya]

One can test mosfets and hall sensors all via the controller wiring, the hall sensor wiring goes direct to the controller.

Well can you just remind me how to do that, as last time. I tested hall sensors while motor was out. and I could never test mosfets last time got confused. I think its because you need to stick meter probe into pins at ends of hall and phase wire connections but was so awkward

 

[DiggyGun]

@billyboya

I really do admire your perseverance, however, I do think the time has come to cut your losses with this moped and move on.

Sell it on eBay for Parts / Repair. Then relax and enjoy your time.

 

[billyboya]

One can test mosfets and hall sensors all via the controller wiring, the hall sensor wiring goes direct to the controller.

Well Nealh you are not going to believe this, But I could never get that new controller to work from day one, as I believe its because the previous owner, not the seller, had messed with wires, as if you remember it had an extra cable going to motor.

So I Thought no I am going to fit the original controller back. and checked all connections etc. plugged everything back as it was with old controller. turned on ignition, lights all came on as before with new controller, only thing about new controller it wouldn't run motor. IE: you engaged the throttle nothing happened.

But now I have fitted old controller from when I bought the bike. all working fine again.

But now need to know why it cut out so is it the battery. as its not hall sensors or mosfets now. but then this is the original controller. I do honestly think its how owner had messed with wires. also another thing with new controller. the display was coming on before i had even turned on ignition, wasn't right at all, and also when you turned off ignition, the display took a while to close if you follow my meaning. but with this original controller it turned off straight way

The battery says now 49.2v I think. so when new charger arrives. I will charge battery back up. to 54v but I cant see how i can sell the moped until problem is sorted. but ATM its running

 

[billyboya]

@billyboya

I really do admire your perseverance, however, I do think the time has come to cut your losses with this moped and move on.

Sell it on eBay for Parts / Repair. Then relax and enjoy your time.

No one is gonna buy that for spares, as most people except me LOL don't have a electric bike, and most want bikes these days not electric mopeds. so have to see now what's causing this to sell it. yes i did have a very very old electric bike sold that for cash last week.

Once I find out what's caused this problem I can then hopefully sell the moped , but cant sell until its fixed right. also I wont get sod all for spares or repair.

 

[guerney]

Perhaps that spark you mentioned, fooked your new controller? A spark fooked mine, had to buy a new controller - I had managed to knick some wire sheathing (using a Stanley knife) on the two battery wires and they arced briefly, but the good news is I bought decent wire strpppers and have learned to solder since. That won't happen again.

Deffo time to sell it, if the new charger works out. Then get a proper pedelec! Something stairway-friendly. Maybe a pedelec which doubles as a stairlift?

 

[billyboya]

Perhaps that spark you mentioned, fooked your new controller? A spark fooked mine, had to buy a new controller - I had managed to knick some wire sheathing (using a Stanley knife) on the two battery wires and they arced briefly, but the good news is I bought decent wire strpppers and have learned to solder since. That won't happen again.

Deffo time to sell it, if the new charger works out. Then get a proper pedelec! Something stairway-friendly. Maybe a pedelec which doubles as a stairlift?

Hi No it wasn't plugged into the moped when it sparked. as I have to remove battery each time from bike to charge it up. it was plugged into battery. But I have now ordered a new charger, but still need to find out what caused the moped to cut its power to be ready to sell it.

unless its all ok now, which I'm a bit doubtful about. even though with old controller its running, but is it going to cut out again. I wont be riding it on no more long trips just testing it for a week or 2 along a short bit of road where i live. if all ok after say 2 weeks then will put it for sale. at least I wont have far to push it home if it do cuts out again

 

[guerney]

Well can you just remind me how to do that, as last time. I tested hall sensors while motor was out. and I could never test mosfets last time got confused. I think its because you need to stick meter probe into pins at ends of hall and phase wire connections but was so awkward

Nealh linked tests for halls and mosfets in this post:

broken cable help

It's hard to say, depending on your skill level and how damaged they are. I've used a thread file but he also used a Wheel Stud Hub Thread Restorer**M12 x 1.25**M12 x 1.5**M14 x 1.5mm 3 Dies to repair threads. You will definitely need new nuts, and each time you thread the old ones back onto...

www.pedelecs.co.uk

 

[billyboya]

Nealh linked tests for halls and mosfets in this post:

broken cable help

It's hard to say, depending on your skill level and how damaged they are. I've used a thread file but he also used a Wheel Stud Hub Thread Restorer**M12 x 1.25**M12 x 1.5**M14 x 1.5mm 3 Dies to repair threads. You will definitely need new nuts, and each time you thread the old ones back onto...

www.pedelecs.co.uk

Have you not read my post #109 above

 

[Nealh]

There are too many posts and threas to keep looking back on, so you will have to show a pic again of the hall connector. If it is the DJ7061 6 wire one, then one just pokes the meter probes up the back of the wire to contact the metal on the pin. One needs battery power to test the 5v so one does all the testing live.

 

[billyboya]

There are too many posts and threas to keep looking back on, so you will have to show a pic again of the hall connector. If it is the DJ7061 6 wire one, then one just pokes the meter probes up the back of the wire to contact the metal on the pin. One needs battery power to test the 5v so one does all the testing live.

is no one reading the replies here Nealh as read my post above #109 as I have got moped running again. all i need now is the charger to see if its going to charge battery up to 54V as its now 49.5V which is fine but cant sell it until it passes that test .

so its obviopus the hall sensors and the mosfets are fine so while its running plus charger is ok and charges up battery. its going for sale as had enough of it now

also Nealh regarding testing the hall sensors and mosfets via those whit plugs, its so hard anyway as every plug has been filled with glue from a glue gun, obvious to stop damp. so very hard to stick a meter probe into them. unless I melt all the glue


Is anyone seeing my posts as cant be as no one has said or replied to post #109 its like they have not seen my posts

 

[Nealh]

The only other possibility I can think of is mosfet thermal cut out, once a mosfet reaches it max op temp it causes a temporary short . This prevents any voltage flow until the mosfet has cooled. Reasons for overheating is usually slow ascent speed and lack of cooling.

 

[billyboya]

The only other possibility I can think of is mosfet thermal cut out, once a mosfet reaches it max op temp it causes a temporary short . This prevents any voltage flow until the mosfet has cooled. Reasons for overheating is usually slow ascent speed and lack of cooling.

Well Like I said Nealh the moped is running ok now. I am hoping when new charger arrives it will charge battery ok. then I can start testing it out on a short road for a week. and if all passes ok. I will put moped up for sale. yes you are probably right about mosfet cut out. as on the day it cut out 500 yards from mine. I was lucky there. But previous to cutting out I had attempted a steep hill which was probably too much so time I was nearly home the mosfet cut out. causing moped power to go.

 

[guerney]

The only other possibility I can think of is mosfet thermal cut out, once a mosfet reaches it max op temp it causes a temporary short . This prevents any voltage flow until the mosfet has cooled. Reasons for overheating is usually slow ascent speed and lack of cooling.

Would replacing with better quality mosfets mitigate the (possible) overheating issue?

 

[billyboya]

Would replacing with better quality mosfets mitigate the (possible) overheating issue?

Well when I do sell moped, They can have all the problems then not me, But I have to make sure its all running ok. which ATM it is, I'm just waiting for battery charger, hope its going to charge up battery, it should do. so will let you all know. the battery says now 49.5V so enough power in it. But like to have it up to 54V.