Ebike security locks

[Quicken]

Motorcycle locks

Where chainlocks are concerned, I prefer a motorcycle one, heavy but generally stronger than many bike ones.

Same here. After a recent scare where some of the accesories were stolen off my bike when stored in a communal bike shed, I decided it would be a good idea to beef up my security with a motorcycle chain. After looking round at all the major brands and finding them overpriced, I eventually found the PJB range:

PJB Security Products | Products

I got the 150cm boxer chain for £49.99, which is less than half the price of many comparable products - (e.g. Kryptonite, Abus, Oxford, Squire). It's sold secure approved for motorcycles and ATVs:

Automotive

It weighs a lot, but it's very well put together (closed shackles are important). I keep it in the bike shed for night time security, and have another lock at work, so I don't have to carry a lock at all for my commute.

Cheers,
Q

 

[giguana]

I'm surprised they don't have any GPS tracking chips by now...like some kind of radio tracking system that they use for animals in the ocean.

these electric ideas are fun, you could install a kind of tazer, a tangle net, or some explosive smelly paint bomb like they do with safes.

 

[coops]

That looks useful, thanks Quicken .

Is a chain with separate padlock more secure aswell as more flexible, or would a sufficiently strong chain lock with an 'integral' lock be just as effective?

Would either the abus steel-o-chain 810 or city chain x-plus be heavy duty enough as chain locks?

It seems to me that either of those two might be more easily used than a standard padlock & chain in conjunction with the motion-alarm to tightly chain the bike with the lock concealed so as to make it difficult to access the lock without triggering the alarm, or cut/forcibly remove the chain, though it is more expensive and less flexible than separate lock & chain...

What do you think?

Stuart.

 

[Quicken]

That looks useful, thanks Quicken .

Is a chain with separate padlock more secure aswell as more flexible, or would a sufficiently strong chain lock with an 'integral' lock be just as effective?

That depends on the individual locks imho. The x-plus integral lock mechanism is pretty sturdy in my knowledge and experience, whereas the lock on the steel-o-chain looks much more flimsy (I haven't looked at it in the flesh).

Would either the abus steel-o-chain 810 or city chain x-plus be heavy duty enough as chain locks?

Well, the steel-o-chain is only sold secure bronze rated for bicycles, so I wouldn't recommend that for a valuable bike. The x-plus chain is gold rated for bicycles, but hasn't got a motorcycle rating (they're obviously tougher). For comparison, the boxer chain is sold secure gold rated for motorcycles and ATVs.

I think it's worth looking at the lock lists provided by various insurers to get an idea of which ones they trust (after all they have to pay out when the lock gets broken).

https://www.pavilioninsurance.com/secure/locklist.asp?product=Cycle&promCode=

The steel-o-chain is in Category A: Bikes Under £250
The city chain x-plus is in category C: Bikes over £1500
The boxer chain is in the same C category, but comparing the specs with the x-plus chain reveals it's a heavier-duty bit of kit - 12mm chain vs 10mm. It's also longer (150cm vs 110cm) if that's important (it was for me). The clincher for me is that the boxer chain is half the price of the x-plus. On the other hand, from being thinner and shorter the x-plus is going to be a bit lighter than the boxer for carrying around. In short, I think the x-plus (but not the o-chain) is probably 'tough enough', but a good motorcycle chain will be tougher. Up to you.

It seems to me that either of those two might be more easily used than a standard padlock & chain in conjunction with the motion-alarm to tightly chain the bike with the lock concealed so as to make it difficult to access the lock without triggering the alarm, or cut/forcibly remove the chain, though it is more expensive and less flexible than separate lock & chain...

What do you think?

Stuart.

I don't know much about motion alarms so I can't offer much here except with regards to lock toughness (as covered above). Perhaps someone else can comment.

Cheers,
Q

 

[coops]

Thanks again Quicken,

Having just looked at a 'Fahgeddaboutit' sold secure gold rated lock at little under £100, I can see better what good value that PJB lock is in terms of chain strength/thickness for the money, as you say...

I've come to the same conclusion as you vis-a-vis the Abus locks in comparison with the PJB, though I still don't feel I have enough information on what makes a good lock/chain design to differentiate... so I guess I'll just have to go by the 'sold secure' rating, aswell as manufacturers' own security rating scales for comparison between different locks of the same brand e.g. abus. In addition, awareness of how the lock might work with other security measures e.g. a motion alarm, helps with making the choice.

The sold secure silver-rated abus diskus looks better value than the steel-o-chain (about the same price) and this 4.23kg 'blok' 12mm thick & 110cm long chain lock also under £50 seems better value still for 'in store' buying - no sold secure rating given though for that one.

Stuart.

 

[Cyclezee]

Check out these Bargain Locks available from Wilkinson for only £3.99 each Magnum Top Lock Supertough 22mm Armoured Lock 100cm (3'3in) at Wilkinson Plus

They may not be the most secure or strongest, but I use 2 of them on my bikes and I am pretty sure they act as a deterrent to the opportunist thief.
The way I look at it, a determined serious thief can break most locks or do a lot of damage in the process if they can't steal the bike, so I would rather the bike was taken and claim back from my insurance than spend up to £100 on a lock and get a trashed bike back. That's my personal view, many would disagree.

John

 

[giguana]

how about liquid nitrogen? that can get past almost anything. you can learn a lot by checking all the bike lock information from YouTube - Opening bike lock , if you look at "bike lock" it is mostly people telling each other how to pick them.

it's not just kryptonite that can be picked with a felt pen its Oxford locks as well, quite a lot of round key locks. you can use a car jack to prise u-locks open, skeleton keys, I just picked a combination lock yesterday in five minutes after checking the video out.

also found some interesting things, a remote activated siren, which has a remote on a keyring like a car with a red button on it which activates the bike alarm, also there was a guy selling cheap alarm integrated cable locks. Motion activated sirens definitely add some safety.

thanks for all the excellent guidance so far, still worried about leaving an electric GT I-drive around town!

 

[giguana]

yum...radio tracking
Biotrack, specialists in radio tagging for wild animals
they can radio track amphibians and not bikes? that is outrageous!

 

[giguana]

I have an idea for quite a safe lock, I want a motorbike chain with a motion alarm fixed near the lock.

the plan is to secure the bike and fix the alarm and the lock inside the spokes of the back wheel and to roll down the back wheel past to the forks, so that to gain slack on the chain and access to lock, the intruder would have to move the alarm enough for the motion detector to activate the siren.

thing is motorbike locks are very long and very heavy, haven't yet found a shorter length of chain that is "sold secure Gold" certified...

 

[morphix]

new bike owner

I have just been reading this old thread with interest.. as a new bike owner one thing that bothers me is the quick release nature of components on my bike, i.e. the front-wheel and seat post. Since my bike has a rear hub motor which most likely would be targeted by any theif trying to remove the wheels, I need a lock (or locks) which can cover all bases...front wheel, back wheel, frame and seat.

That doesn't seem possible given the limited lengths of chains unless you're prepared to shell out £200 on a lock and carry about 7-8kg extra weight for 2m of chain (which I'm not). I don't like the idea of having to remove the seat though and carry that around with me.

I think I will get my insurance sorted with Cycleguard and then just do the minimum they ask, i.e. get a gold standard lock (either D-lock or 1.2m chain) for under £50, then use a cheaper < £10 lock as a deterrent on the other wheel and perhaps another cheap lock on the seat to the frame.

It seems silly to spend hundreds on locks and alarms on top of insurance.. I'm inclined to agree with the other poster who said he would rather his bike get nicked than vandalised by some persistent or frustrated thief which would not be covered by insurance.

 

[Mussels]

I have an idea for quite a safe lock, I want a motorbike chain with a motion alarm fixed near the lock.

the plan is to secure the bike and fix the alarm and the lock inside the spokes of the back wheel and to roll down the back wheel past to the forks, so that to gain slack on the chain and access to lock, the intruder would have to move the alarm enough for the motion detector to activate the siren.

thing is motorbike locks are very long and very heavy, haven't yet found a shorter length of chain that is "sold secure Gold" certified...

Motorbike chains may be heavier but plenty of them are easy to brake, I don't know how short you want the chain but if you want it to go round lamp posts then there are motorbike chains the right length. I've never seen a motion alarm fixed to a good chain, you could use a motorbike disc lock if you have disc brakes I guess. Keep looking as what you want is probably available.

I have just been reading this old thread with interest.. as a new bike owner one thing that bothers me is the quick release nature of components on my bike, i.e. the front-wheel and seat post. Since my bike has a rear hub motor which most likely would be targeted by any theif trying to remove the wheels, I need a lock (or locks) which can cover all bases...front wheel, back wheel, frame and seat.

That doesn't seem possible given the limited lengths of chains unless you're prepared to shell out £200 on a lock and carry about 7-8kg extra weight for 2m of chain (which I'm not). I don't like the idea of having to remove the seat though and carry that around with me.

I think I will get my insurance sorted with Cycleguard and then just do the minimum they ask, i.e. get a gold standard lock (either D-lock or 1.2m chain) for under £50, then use a cheaper < £10 lock as a deterrent on the other wheel and perhaps another cheap lock on the seat to the frame.

It seems silly to spend hundreds on locks and alarms on top of insurance.. I'm inclined to agree with the other poster who said he would rather his bike get nicked than vandalised by some persistent or frustrated thief which would not be covered by insurance.

You can change the quick release mechanisms for locking ones that need a special wrench to undo, like car wheel locking nuts.

 

[morphix]

You can change the quick release mechanisms for locking ones that need a special wrench to undo, like car wheel locking nuts.

Thanks Mussels, that's good to know..I was just about to do a post asking about this so you beat me to it! I will certainly look into getting mine changed as it's one less thing to worry about when leaving the bike unattended. I can't really see the point in quick release components at all on regular bikes..what actual benefit does it serve? On pro-racing bikes sure, but on regular bikes it's just a lazy gimmick that makes it easier for thieves?

 

[flecc]

I can't really see the point in quick release components at all on regular bikes..what actual benefit does it serve?

It slashes the toolkit needs. For the experienced who don't need tyre levers, just a spare tube and a lightweight pump is enough for most needs.
.

 

[allen-uk]

Giguana: I fear you might end up carrying such a long and heavy chain that you'll need an auxilliary battery to compensate.

I aim for a similar degree of protection to you, but use the Abus Granit 1000 to secure the main part of the bike to a lamp-post, then a subsidiary (lighter and less secure) chain to thread through the saddle, battery, and then a Bulldog D lock through a pedal.

No, it's not Fort Knox, and it still weighs a few kilos, but the only way to deter ALL bike thieves is never to leave the house.


A.

 

[Mussels]

Giguana: I fear you might end up carrying such a long and heavy chain that you'll need an auxilliary battery to compensate.

I found the problem with a heavy lock was how to secure it so it didn't cause any damage. I tried to stow my D lock several ways but bumps would throw it around and it always broke something eventually, it also forced it's way out of the bottom of my pannier so that didn't help.
I currently use a chain wrapped around the seat post but I have to be careful with that as the padlock tends to jump around a bit.