ebike kit advice needed

[flying-chase]

Hi d8veh, thanks for your reply, I enjoy the power when offroading but feel I do need to tame it when doing more normal cycling. The throttle response is also very sudden.

With my watt meter and current set up I get about 1400w for average riding, with chain skip in the smallest gear at low speeds.

If I understand the SLCD3 correctly its max current is 25A and you can reduce that by 5A by changing the parameter. This would give me a min of 20A X 48V = 960W, i.e a decrease of 30% of power.

The lcd3 display says its compatible with 24 and 48 volt, but I couldn't find a controller that could cover that range. I thought that if I wanted to reduce the power further I could wire the lipos output for 24 volt , i.e. 480w.
Would you have any other ideas, I assume that the below items are the ones you are suggesting?

Thanks

Charles

http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/670-s-led770-e-bike-led-meter.html
http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/661-s-led770-e-bike-led-meter.html
http://www.bmsbattery.com/ebike-parts/579-pas-pulse-padel-assistant-sensor.html
http://www.bmsbattery.com/controller/552-s06-250w-imitation-torque-square-wave-controller.html (http links ti sine wave controller)
http://www.bmsbattery.com/accessory/395-thumb-level-throttle.html

 

[Deleted member 4366]

That shopping list looks correct. The S12S can be switched over to current control (torque simulation), which should be better for a crank drive.The five PAS levels relate to five different currents rather than crank speeds. Also, there's a bit of a ramp on the throttle response, which also might help.

 

[flying-chase]

Thanks, BMS say not all parameters can be set. Do you know what I should ask them to set?


Sorry to be a pain about this, but do you know of a controller that would do 24/48v as I am concerned that it might not lower the power enough or allow me to ramp it back up easily to it's current performance?
Thanks

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I don't understand what you mean by 24/48v. What's 24v got to do with it?

Normal settings are:
Wheel size
Max speed
Normal or torque simulation mode (speed or current control)
LVC

There's loads of other settings. You need to read through the manuals, which you can download from their listing.

The S12S has five power levels on the PAS from not very much to full power, selectable from the touch of a button. What more do you want?

 

[flying-chase]

Hi d8veh, initially that was what I was thinking of to reduce the power as I have two lipo's to produce the 48v. Ib thought that might also improve the range, but subsequent research shows that isn't the case.

 

[flying-chase]

My current set up has a five level pas from conhismotors which starts at 60% up wards. The throttle has a very narrow range, i.e. very little movement needed and you're at full power. So I am attempting to control/reduce that power when I want to use it on a road. The power is fine off road but too much for on road usage.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Try the S12S, the throttle should be much better.

 

[flying-chase]

OK will do

 

[flying-chase]

Hi d8veh.
I fitted the kit to my bike and am now stuck. It would go for about 2 seconds and then stop. After about 10 minutes and changing various settings, I still could not get it going.
I then had a fault reported on the LCD as fault 6 Motor or controller has short circuit Abnormality. It blew the fuse from my batteries. There's no obvious smell of burning on motor or controller. I then tried troubleshooting various possibilities, i.e. getting phase wires wrong way around etc, no success.

I disconnected the controller from all other wiring, put in a 10 amp fuse and reconnected to battery and promptly blew the fuse. So problem is in controller, but what? I've taken it apart but everything looks ok. Do you have any suggestions/ideas?

 

[Alan Quay]

It could be the in rush current blowing the fuse. I would try a 30a and see what happens.

 

[trex]

Hi d8veh.
I fitted the kit to my bike and am now stuck. It would go for about 2 seconds and then stop. After about 10 minutes and changing various settings, I still could not get it going.
I then had a fault reported on the LCD as fault 6 Motor or controller has short circuit Abnormality. It blew the fuse from my batteries. There's no obvious smell of burning on motor or controller. I then tried troubleshooting various possibilities, i.e. getting phase wires wrong way around etc, no success.

I disconnected the controller from all other wiring, put in a 10 amp fuse and reconnected to battery and promptly blew the fuse. So problem is in controller, but what? I've taken it apart but everything looks ok. Do you have any suggestions/ideas?

it looks like you have a short somewhere in the motor copper wires. It can't be a blown FET or short in motor cable because the motor runs for 2 seconds, enough for the controller to find the over current somewhere inside the motor and asserts error 6. As soon as the controller raises error 6, it stops the motor. I think you'll have to get a new motor.

 

[flying-chase]

Hi Mike, the original fuse was 30 amp and I have just tried another which also just blew. I can't physically see anything wrong with the controller, still no smell or damage.

 

[flying-chase]

Hi trex, I assume it must be controller as I have disconnected it from all other systems.

 

[trex]

have you tested the motor with another controller?

 

[flying-chase]

The motor was working fine with the original controller. This controller is completely unplugged except for power.

 

[trex]

does the motor have hall wires? if it doesn't then there may be an issue with the programming of the controller, you may be stuck with the old controller until you find a third controller to run more test.

 

[Alan Quay]

Ok, if you only have battery connected to controller, and it's taking out a 30a fuse, then you have a fault in the controller, or the wiring to it.

It's worth double checking the wires from battery to controller, just in case.

If that's all ok, you need a new controller.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I would say that something on the controller pcb is touching the case. The pcb has to sit in its slot. When it's in properly look through from end to end at the underneath of the pcb. Is anything hanging down enough to touch the case? I've seen them before direct from Chinese suppliers with the pcb asembled not in it's slot so the side opposite the FETs is touching the case.

Check that first and report back.

 

[flying-chase]

Thanks for your help guys. I still can't see anything wrong with the controller, But I'll leave it until tomorrow.

 

[flying-chase]

Hi d8veh, I can't see anything touching. Took it out of case for a once over and gave it a light blast with some air, still blew a fuse. I then checked it on a DMM(measuring resistance at 20k)
ground to yellow 9.95
ground to blue 10.00
ground to green 0.00

positive to yellow 9.95
positive to blue 10.00
positive to green 0.00

Does this mean the mosfets are blown on the high and low end? I've been doing some reading