Ebike controller/battery connection

[johnRN]

I am trying to find out which battery (rack mounted) is designed to fit the input to this controller ....Thanks

 

[johnRN]

...looks like there is a crack in the battery locking mechanism?

 

[cyclebuddy]

It may be easier to state/show which bike it is. Different bike brands tend to use batteries from specific manufacturers.

 

[johnRN]

Good point ...I already contacted 'FunBikes', who appear to be the manufacturer/supplier of 'Enhance' bikes, but had no response yet ...their current range of ebikes does not include this one !

 

[saneagle]

I am trying to find out which battery (rack mounted) is designed to fit the input to this controller ....Thanks



View attachment 58509

It doesn't matter. You can replace the whole lot. You need to open the compartment to see what voltage is written on the controller first.

Pardon our interruption...

 

[johnRN]

Thats true ..I'm guessing 36V, and as you say there are quite a few options of battery+controller for sale ...I'll have to see what signal wires currently exist, so that I know what they are supplied to, such as motor hall sensors, lights, display, brake cut-off etc. If I knew which battery fits the pin arrangement, then I either source a new one, or re-cell a used battery.....thanks

 

[saneagle]

Thats true ..I'm guessing 36V, and as you say there are quite a few options of battery+controller for sale ...I'll have to see what signal wires currently exist, so that I know what they are supplied to, such as motor hall sensors, lights, display, brake cut-off etc. If I knew which battery fits the pin arrangement, then I either source a new one, or re-cell a used battery.....thanks

You don't need to change the controller. All those rack batteries have a compartment for it at the front of the receiver. Just take it out and install it in the new one.

 

[johnRN]

I don't need to change the controller ...but I do need to find a battery with the same out pin configurations as the existing controller ...thats the difficult bit!

 

[saneagle]

I don't need to change the controller ...but I do need to find a battery with the same out pin configurations as the existing controller ...thats the difficult bit!

No you don't. Get your controller out first and look at how it's connected. Typically, they have two bullet connectors that are more or less standard, so just unclip it from yours and clip it to the new one. In the worst case, you have to solder two wires.

 

[johnRN]

Yes...you are right ...output of the 3 main phase lines from the controller to the motor are bullet connectors. Still leaves smaller 5V signal wires from the BMS to the controller, and then out of the controller to the display, brake cut-off, lights , RPM sensor etc. maybe the sensor 5V lines are generic and not a problem.

 

[johnRN]

Yes...you are right ...output of the 3 main phase lines from the controller to the motor are bullet connectors. Still leaves smaller 5V signal wires from the BMS to the controller, and then out of the controller to the display, brake cut-off, lights , RPM sensor etc. maybe the sensor 5V lines are generic and not a problem.

 

[saneagle]

Yes...you are right ...output of the 3 main phase lines from the controller to the motor are bullet connectors. Still leaves smaller 5V signal wires from the BMS to the controller, and then out of the controller to the display, brake cut-off, lights , RPM sensor etc. maybe the sensor 5V lines are generic and not a problem.

It's only the thick red and black battery wires that matter.

 

[Nealh]

As mentioned the only wires to concern yourself with are the pair of battery connections to the controller both usually a bullet connection.
The phase and Hall connectors and any other wire connection have no relation to the battery, they are merely housed within that front section to hide them. They feed out the front of the battery housing to the peripheral items connected to the bike so PAS , display, wheel spd sensor (optional) , throttle (optional) , lights optional.