Ebco ucl30 battery retro fit

[ben619]

As per the title, has anyone managed to retro fit a different battery onto one of these? The tranzx battery costs an arm and a leg to replace, I believe the controller is built into the battery connector on the rack but im wondering if you have rid of that, is it possible for a work around?

can’t appear to find any pictures of looms etc to have a nosey at

mother in law sent me it and asked if I could ask the group if anyone has any experience with them ( she knows of the help I’ve had previously here!)

happy Saturday!

 

[Nealh]

You may have to put up with tranzx option as some of the systems use CANbus another reason to stay clear of them, if so one will be locked in to expensive replacements. Depends on the bike age and motor used.

It will depend if the battery/controller uses comm's, how many wires for the charge process is it just two or a lot more ?

 

[ben619]

You may have to put up with tranzx option if the bike uses CANbus another reason to stay clear of them, if so one will be locked in to expensive replacements.

literally just read that it may be a canbus system, ill tell her to stay away!

Cheers Neal

 

[Nealh]

The new F15 hub motor designation for the bikes use a CAN bus system, one would need to know 100% sure but they can be troublesome cost wise later on and not imho a very good used option after two years.
Pretty sure why we see a few Bosh bike for sale now at about the two yea mark or over this mark as the users realise the cost should one go wrong.

 

[cyclebuddy]

Your Outlaw owns the bike already, or is thinking of buying it?

If the first, I'm pretty sure you can recell it - it depends on the age. If the usual XLR charge socket, it may have 3-pins connected (newer/CanBus system) or 4-pins (older/analogue).

The newer CanBus has a mini-USB socket on the controller board under the cover at the front of the battery (may also have one on the display, depends what model). For these, you can download the dealer software to diagnose the bike/reset the battery yourself if needed (PC only). Likely Ebikebatteries has come across these before; I doubt they're booby-trapped like Bosch, so should be recell-able.

On the older analogue, you short out the two orange wires at the connector to reset it (usage/cycle-life memory). There's stuff on a French forum/blogpost that shows how to recell and reset if the older type. I linked it here on the forum once before if you can find it.

What model/capacity is the battery?

 

[ben619]

Hi guys, just to let you know we didnt go for it after what Neal advised

 

[Nealh]

It is the best option without being 100% certain if the bike can be re-celled or a third party battery can be used, there will be other ebikes.

 

[ben619]

Couldnt agree more! My mother in law is 72, and she does actually own a bike, around 2 years old 'vintage' style rebrand type thing** with 26 inch wheels, she just struggles with it, will have a scout for a second hand kit that may be lurking around, had a look through Classifieds here but nothing in there really. I think a hub motor and a battery on the rear pannier could be a good idea!

**i believe it to be exactly the same as a pendleton with different graphics

 

[sjpt]

A kit on that bike could be just the thing. You want to make sure it isn't a pure speed controller that gives full power at startup even on lowest setting. That can be quite disconcerting, and not at all good for a slightly hesitant rider not used to an ebike.

You usually need a special rack for rack battery; no problem if the existing rack is a standard bold on one (it probably is), but could be awkward if the rack is integrated with the frame.

Rear hub is probably a bit better, but front hub should be fine.

 

[ben619]

Thanks for your input! Yeah just something fairly simple and as you say nothing mental power wise. She would only use the electric side purely for accessing the ‘green way’ near us. A purpose built cycling/walking road using an old railway line. It’s lovely and flat once your on, just accessing it with the slight inclines is enough to make her think she will just stay at home instead! Would like to change that

 

[Nealh]

Be warned riding hubs unpowered can be hard work, the extra unpowered weight and some low internal gearing ratio's tend to make the riding effort feel like pedalling thru treacle. One can soon lose the appeal of doing so.
The best option is to use a KT controller kit on PAS 1 level.
I would think an ideal hub would a small front akm75 or bafang g370.

 

[Mr Harry Morris]

Well gents I’m no expert on these eBikes but I’ve ended up with four of them! All have faulty batteries and have been quoted £310 plus shipping for the 36 volt lithium to be refurbished and this does not include ( if found to be faulty) the B M S completely out of the question as far as I am concerned so I set about installing the tried and tested and cheap lead acid batteries.
Now one thing I noticed about the original battery set up was that when you plugged the battery in by pushing the hole thing forward until it engages the spring loaded terminals at the controller end there is a definite electrical crack, no doubt as the capacitors in the controller charge up ! But hang on ! The bike is Not Even Turned On !!! No wander these batteries don’t last as long as they should, turning the bike off at the display end does Not Turn The Power Off.
So I tried the other bikes and they all did the same !!! Surly that’s a faulty design ! The only alternative is to pull the battery out when you put the bike away, one of things I have not been able to get any info on is the terminal wiring voltages, looking at the push on terminal block The Left terminal is Negative and the Right terminal is Positive and these are the standard 36 volt power terminals, and there are are Two more wires at terminal Two and Three coming from the B M S but I don’t know what voltage these should be or what they are for, well that’s my rant over would be great full to any member who may be able to shed some light on my minor problem,
Cheers Harry Morris.

 

[cyclebuddy]

All have faulty batteries and have been quoted £310 plus shipping for the 36 volt lithium to be refurbished and this does not include ( if found to be faulty) the B M S completely out of the question as far as I am concerned so I set about installing the tried and tested and cheap lead acid batteries.

£310 for a re-celled 36v 11Ah battery (given it's CANbus) - if they're pukka Samsung/Panasonic cells being used - is pretty fair IMHO, especially as a bike like this would today probably cost maybe £1500+ new? The bikes would be easily re-sellable for a profit with new Li-Ion batteries as without batteries the bikes are almost useless.

Lead Acid - if you can even get them to work without CANbus - aren't going to hold the same appeal.

Now one thing I noticed about the original battery set up was that when you plugged the battery in by pushing the hole thing forward until it engages the spring loaded terminals at the controller end there is a definite electrical crack, no doubt as the capacitors in the controller charge up ! But hang on ! The bike is Not Even Turned On !!! No wander these batteries don’t last as long as they should, turning the bike off at the display end does Not Turn The Power Off.
So I tried the other bikes and they all did the same !!! Surly that’s a faulty design !

No, that's not a faulty design, it's a faulty user.

You need to switch the battery off - not the bike - by holding down the battery power button until the lights extinguish. About 10 seconds. Then they won't spark.