Easybike easycity 36v 10amp

[Dctyke]

Hi:
The speed display has stopped working and just shows 00. I have tried to contact easybike in France without success. The bike details are on:

http://www.easybike.fr/product_fiche.php?id=34&reference=ecitw-coffee8&reference_libelle=&depart=listing

Any help on a fix would be much appreciated.

 

[trex]

check the spokes on the bike to see if you have a magnet attached to one of them.
If you do, then you need to keep the magnet facing the sensor or post a picture here, we'll help you find the fault.
Another trick is to remove the battery in the LCD, wait two minutes then re-install the battery, that will reset the LCD.

 

[Dctyke]

Thanks for the reply trax. This model does not use magnet on spoke and the LCD takes it's power though a loom.

 

[danielrlee]

It probably takes the speed sensing signal from one of the hall sensor phases. Do you own a multimeter?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

There's two possibilities I can think of:

1. In the advanced settings of the LCD, there's often a setting that tells the LCD where it gets its speed signal from. Maybe yours has had a reset and defaulted to an external speed sensor that you don't have. You need the LCD manual for that. If you can show a picture of your LCD, somebody might be able to find the instruction for it.

2. The LCD can't see the speed signal from the motor. Often, the ninth wire (white) in the harness is used. Unplug and re-plug the motor connector by the wheel if it has one behind the chainstay and/or the multipin connector at the controller. The controller sits in the box at the front of the battery.

 

[Dctyke]

It probably takes the speed sensing signal from one of the hall sensor phases. Do you own a multimeter?

Yes I do

 

[Dctyke]

There's two possibilities I can think of:

1. In the advanced settings of the LCD, there's often a setting that tells the LCD where it gets its speed signal from. Maybe yours has had a reset and defaulted to an external speed sensor that you don't have. You need the LCD manual for that. If you can show a picture of your LCD, somebody might be able to find the instruction for it.

Pic below.

2. The LCD can't see the speed signal from the motor. Often, the ninth wire (white) in the harness is used. Unplug and re-plug the motor connector by the wheel if it has one behind the chainstay and/or the multipin connector at the controller. The controller sits in the box at the front of the battery.

Tried undoing and re-connecting by the wheel, no luck. If it helps the plug has 3 large pins and 5 smaller ones below. The pic below is my LCD

 

[danielrlee]

Yes I do

Have you tried d8veh's first suggestion yet? Also, it's worth checking that the LCD is still set to the correct wheel size.

You also mentioned a wiring loom in your earlier post. Are there any plugs or wiring visible there? Failing that, you are going to have to gain access to the controller and post a photo of the connectors there.

 

[Dctyke]

Right folks, the story continues. I found that if I disconnected the hall sensor plug at the controller the bike would work. When I took the cover off the rear hub motor I expected to see 3 hall sensors however there was only one. I thought it must be a sensor for the speed display. I replaced the sensor with a new Honeywell one. On start up the bike worked but the LCD displayed everything it could. I disconnected the hall sensor plug again but then the bike would not work, reconnected and still won't work. Do I have a 'sensing controller'? And how do I reset it.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

There's three wires for the hall sensor that you replaced - normally red 5v, black 0v and white signal. Measure the voltage between the red and black at the controller end while it's connected and switched on. Try and keep your probes on, while someone turns the wheel slowly to see that it stays stable at 5v when the hall switches on. Measure between the black and the signal, to see that the hall gives a single 5v pulse during rotation.

How many wires are connected to the motor not counting the three thick phase wires: 3, 5 or 6?

 

[Dctyke]

There's three wires for the hall sensor that you replaced - normally red 5v, black 0v and white signal. Measure the voltage between the red and black at the controller end while it's connected and switched on. Try and keep your probes on, while someone turns the wheel slowly to see that it stays stable at 5v when the hall switches on. Measure between the black and the signal, to see that the hall gives a single 5v pulse during rotation.

How many wires are connected to the motor not counting the three thick phase wires: 3, 5 or 6?

Thanks for getting back.
Red and black 4.75v. Black and green 1.97v with a 2.12v pulse.
Not counting the 3 thick wires there are 3 thin wires connected to a single sensor which is triggered by a magnet fixed to the inside of the hub cover.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Did you replace the hall sensor with the same type? That looks like a throttle one. Normally I'd expect a switch type that gives 4.75v and 0v.

 

[Dctyke]

It was replaced with a Honeywell SS41 as reccomended as a general use sensor for ebikes, no idea what original was. Not withstanding this the bike was working with the whole plug disconnected, now it isn't.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Is it definitely a SS41 and not a SS49. A SS41 shouldn't give 1.97v with no magnet. Try lifting the signal wire and test it unconnected. You have to leave the red and black connected.

 

[Dctyke]

I was hoping to not have to dis-assemble the rear hub and de-solder again. I am happy not to have the speedo working. The controller must run sensor less as it did work with the plug undone prior to me trying to fix the speedo. Somehow connecting the speed sensor with the new hall changed something in the controller. I have read about controllers that 'learn' connections, I am hoping to return it to as it was but have no idea how to.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Your motor and controller are permanently sensorless aren't they? The speed sensor has nothing to do with that, but, if were faulty, it would affect the 5v rail, which also powers the CPU. Are you sure that you have it connected into the right connector?

If you unplug the speed sensor, you might find that your controller and/or display will shut down after 10 minutes or so (sleep mode).

You can do the last test I mentioned without disassembling the motor. Just remove the pin from the connector at the controller. Use a darning needle to hold down the barb while you pull it from the connector housing.

 

[Dctyke]

With the signal disconnected it remains 4.75 throughout wheel rotation.
All of the plugs are unique and cannot be connected wrongly.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

That doesn't quite add up. I'm wondering if you got your wires mixed up when you soldered it. Is it possible you swapped the signal and 5v wires? Try swapping the signal and 5v wires on the connector.

The 5v and signal wires are connected by a pull-up resistor in the controller, which would account for why you can still measure 4.75v between the other two

 

[Dctyke]

I will try that. In the mean time something for you...... If I press the two middle buttons together on the C300 LCD the motor runs without me having to turn the pedals even though it has a pas sensor on the crank? Pic of LCD in earlier mail above.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

That's walk mode so that the motor goes at walking speed when you want to walk your bike.