Easy Motion Neo Cross

[Convert-e-Bike]

Hello All

I have just taken delivery of an Easy Motion Neo Cross with a fault. The battery cells have just been replaced but when the display is turned on it is not possible to set the assist level. The up or down keys have no effect. The walking mode works fine but nothing else. I have noticed that the up key very occasionally can set the assist level but almost immediateley the setting returns to zero again.
Any advice will be greatley appreciated.

 

[vfr400]

Send it back?

 

[danielrlee]

A stuck [DOWN] button perhaps? Does it feel different to the other buttons?

 

[Convert-e-Bike]

A stuck [DOWN] button perhaps? Does it feel different to the other buttons?

I suppose that could give the symptoms we are experiencing, I will investigate further, thank you.

 

[Convert-e-Bike]

Send it back?

Ah, I should have explained. I have taken delivery of this bike for repair. It was apparentley working until the owner had the battery re-celled. The battery technician told the owner that the handlebar display would not show an accurate voltage display so fitted an LED display to the battery, this actually shows fully charged but the handlebar display flashes flat. Since then the assist level function is not working. I suspect that the battery is causing the issue but don't want to jump to conclusions and without a standby battery I cannot confirm my suspicion. This battery has the controller built in I am informed and so I cannot just connect a substitute battery for test purposes.

 

[vfr400]

It was apparentley working until the owner had the battery re-celled. The battery technician told the owner that the handlebar display would not show an accurate voltage display

That doesn't make sense. You're hiding some information. The LCD works on battery voltage. How can it know that the battery has been changed? Is the missing info that the battery was changed from 10S to 12S or 13S?

 

[Convert-e-Bike]

I suppose that could give the symptoms we are experiencing, I will investigate further, thank you.

Tried this but I forgot that holding the (DOWN) button in brings on the LCD illumination. So I tried holding in the (DOWN) button whilst powering up and sure enough the LCD illumination came on as the unit powered up which seemed to indicate that the down button is not stuck in. The + button still had the same symptoms, ie. assist level would increase but then immediatley return to zero.

 

[Convert-e-Bike]

That doesn't make sense. You're hiding some information. The LCD works on battery voltage. How can it know that the battery has been changed? Is the missing info that the battery was changed from 10S to 12S or 13S?

Yes I probably am missing some information. Since spoken to the owner who reports that the bike was working fine until after the recent very cold spell when he went to the bike in his shed and the battery was flat, he attempted to charge it with no luck so sent the battery away to a specialist. Since getting the battery back the handlebar display indicates a flat battery but the new LED display on the battery shows full and a voltmeter check shows a steady 42v on a 36v battery. The battery frame connector has 2 power conections plus 8 control connections all in the same housing which tells me that the battery pack also houses the main controller and so it is possible that something new introduced into the battery pack could be affecting how the LCD is indicating things. The battery specialist has asked us to make sure ALL electrical connections are sound. With this in mind I am attempting to remove the plastic cover at the bike's bottom bracket. I have removed the 3 csk machine screws but the cover is held firm further down and I cannot see any more fasteners. Is there a hidden catch somewhere?

 

[Nealh]

When I saw the thread on Thursday but with no pics as per normal, the first thing that struck me was the bike probably uses CANbus or some kind of handshaking esp the battery to controller and maybe the display. The re-cell has buggered this up and bricked something likely the controller to battery comm's, the 2 + 8 battery connections/contacts rang alarm bells straight away once this was mentioned.

The re - celler may not have been aware of this extra tamperproof trickery and and has caused the battery to lock, like Bosch and others I doubt it can be reversed. the battery cells themselves will be usable but on a bike using generic China electrics and a new generic BMS added.
Some BMS on these type of batteries can be made to work but during the re -cell process needs to be kept a live and working before disconnecting the old battery pack.

Looks like the owner has cost himself a lot of money, there may be little chance of this bike working now as the locked in brands don't like others tampering with them and rely on the owners paying for expensive propriety replacement's.

 

[Convert-e-Bike]

When I saw the thread on Thursday but with no pics as per normal, the first thing that struck me was the bike probably uses CANbus or some kind of handshaking esp the battery to controller and maybe the display. The re-cell has buggered this up and bricked something likely the controller to battery comm's, the 2 + 8 battery connections/contacts rang alarm bells straight away once this was mentioned.

The re - celler may not have been aware of this extra tamperproof trickery and and has caused the battery to lock, like Bosch and others I doubt it can be reversed. the battery cells themselves will be usable but on a bike using generic China electrics and a new generic BMS added.
Some BMS on these type of batteries can be made to work but during the re -cell process needs to be kept a live and working before disconnecting the old battery pack.

Looks like the owner has cost himself a lot of money, there may be little chance of this bike working now as the locked in brands don't like others tampering with them and rely on the owners paying for expensive propriety replacement's.

Hello Neal, thank you for taking the time to write this reply, I really appreciate it. I had a suspicion that something along these lines might be happening. I have sent an email to the shop that carried out the re-cell asking the relevant questions based on your reply.
I will post updates as they happen.

Meanwhile has anyone got any idea how I take off the plastic bottom braket cover housing the electrical connections? I have remove 3 csk machine screws but something fiendish is stll locking it on.

 

[vfr400]

From memory, the battery has multiple pins that are used by the charger and for a diagnostic device, but it only connects to the controller with two wires, which means that the battery is dumb in that respect. The controller is conventional, not part of the battery, and it's 20A - Santroll, I think.

If it were my bike, I'd change the controller and display, which would give the possibility of fitting a throttle and releasing the speed limit. You'd lose the torque sensor, but you can fit a normal PAS. That would be about 1/3 the price of getting a replacement LCD.

 

[Convert-e-Bike]

From memory, the battery has multiple pins that are used by the charger and for a diagnostic device, but it only connects to the controller with two wires, which means that the battery is dumb in that respect. The controller is conventional, not part of the battery, and it's 20A - Santroll, I think.

If it were my bike, I'd change the controller and display, which would give the possibility of fitting a throttle and releasing the speed limit. You'd lose the torque sensor, but you can fit a normal PAS. That would be about 1/3 the price of getting a replacement LCD.

Thank you..I have managed to release the plastic housing to reveal the connections by the way.