Help! e-City Bike/Coyote Connect Repair - Motor probably gone

[AndrewDJohnson]

Hi all

Don't know if anyone can help... I have an e-City+ bike (from Argos) but apparently it's identical to a Halfords Coyote connect...

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I was riding along with the motor driving the hub and I went into a pothole and now the motor does not work... I took it to a local shop but they couldn't fix it and so I am wondering whether it's worth trying to change the front wheel, as they suggested. So, can anyone tell me where to get a compatible front wheel? Or does anyone on here have a suitable ebike that they can sell spares off of!!

Alternatively, I am thinking of selling mine for spares...

Any advice would be appreciated!

Thanks for your time!

Andrew Johnson

 

[saneagle]

Hi all

Don't know if anyone can help... I have an e-City+ bike (from Argos) but apparently it's identical to a Halfords Coyote connect...

Coyote Connect ECO Power Assisted ELECTRIC FOLDING Bike | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Coyote Connect ECO Power Assisted ELECTRIC FOLDING Bike at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products.

www.ebay.co.uk

I was riding along with the motor driving the hub and I went into a pothole and now the motor does not work... I took it to a local shop but they couldn't fix it and so I am wondering whether it's worth trying to change the front wheel, as they suggested. So, can anyone tell me where to get a compatible front wheel? Or does anyone on here have a suitable ebike that they can sell spares off of!!

Alternatively, I am thinking of selling mine for spares...

Any advice would be appreciated!

Thanks for your time!

Andrew Johnson

It's not likely to be the motor. Did the bike shop do any tests? Are you capable of testing with a meter? Did you fall off or what?

Three things you can check now. There should be a connector on the motor cable near the motor. Push it all the way in while wiggling it, then some more. See if that fixes it. then, while you're at the connector, wiggle it apart so that you can let the cable hang down from the motor. Have a look where it comes out of the axle to make sure it didn't get bitten into. When you reconnect, do it like i just said. Next, look at the pedal sensor, which sits behind the chainwheel. There's a black disc with magnets in. It should rotate with an even gap of about 1mm from the sensor, which is the stationary thing with a wire coming out of it. On some bikes it can get knocked away. You can move it into the correct position with your hand by wiggling it a bit.

 

[AndrewDJohnson]

Thanks - the shop checked all of that for me and I checked as far as I can - no broken contacts and nothing has come loose... So that wasn't my question really!

 

[Bonzo Banana]

From what I understand from reading forums this type of ebike typically has quite a small capacity battery pack which means each individual cell is under more stress as its discharged at a higher rate compared to larger battery packs. This can mean battery pack failure happens more quickly and you don't get as many charge cycles out of the battery pack. The battery pack may charge and give full voltage but because some of the cells are failing under load it just can't provide the necessary current to power the motor. Ideally you need another pack to test your ebike. I'm not sure but I think your ebike has the controller built into the battery pack so is more difficult to test. If the controller wasn't built in you could splice in another 36V or 24V battery (depending on what your ebike voltage is) and test it. The battery pack is the most likely faulty because it contains the cells, BMS and the controller plus all the fuses probably so its all about checking that I would of thought. The simply display/control units can also fail, sometimes due to water ingress. I feel the least likely part to fail silently and abruptly is the hub motor.

 

[egroover]

The bike is 24v, and the controller is separate to the battery but housed in the rear carrier which the battery slides into. The battery is approx 8ah, about 250wh
I'm not convinced it is the motor that's the problem, but if it is, something like below provided its the same axle spacing and motor connector type might suit

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[AGS]

The only way that you can test it at home to find out what’s going on is to use a multimeter to check the various voltages coming in and out of the controller and feeding the various peripherals like battery, throttle, pas and hall sensors.

Then you can start to make some sense of what is going on.

 

[AndrewDJohnson]

Thanks for your replies. The shop did some testing. Everything seems to power up normally - except the motor!

 

[egroover]

Thanks for your replies. The shop did some testing. Everything seems to power up normally - except the motor!

So presumably the shop unplugged the motor cable near the motor and tested the voltage with a multimeter of the connector whilst turning the pedals while the system was powered on ? Was there voltage getting that far ?

 

[AndrewDJohnson]

So presumably the shop unplugged the motor cable near the motor and tested the voltage with a multimeter of the connector whilst turning the pedals while the system was powered on ? Was there voltage getting that far ?

Not sure - it wasn't a specialist e-bike shop. They didn't know the pinout of the controller/wheel (and neither do I), so the basic checks they did probably didn't reveal this.