E-bike chain Vs normal bike chain

[kingsknight]

So I've been buying a bunch of spares for my Ebike and I've come to the chain. A replacement E-bike change costs around about £20 but a stand chain costs £8. I've got a lot of conflicted reports from the internet saying there is no point getting a E-bike drive chain over a standard bicycle chain.

What do you guys think?

 

[Gubbins]

My view is that chain wear is determined more by the environment by anything else with maintenance coming a close second. You may get a few more miles out of a better spec ebike chain but I generally look for a mid priced chain that's been discounted.

 

[kingsknight]

How many miles would you expect to get out of mid priced chain? I've just hit 1200 on my chain and it still looks like it is in good shape.

 

[Gubbins]

How many miles would you expect to get out of mid priced chain? I've just hit 1200 on my chain and it still looks like it is in good shape.

Depends on terain and maintenance . I get around 1000 on a road ebike and change it when it hits the first measurement on a park chain measuring tool. But some who ride in mucky gritty conditions dont get anything near that.

 

[kingsknight]

You only get 1000 miles from a drive chain??? wow! im a large (105kg) rider who rides 95% on the road and ive not hit the first measurement on my chain measuring tool yet! You must ride really hard lol

 

[Artstu]

You only get 1000 miles from a drive chain??? wow! im a large (105kg) rider who rides 95% on the road and ive not hit the first measurement on my chain measuring tool yet! You must ride really hard lol

I take it your bike is crank drive? Hills are the killer and Gubbins rides up lots of hills.

 

[kingsknight]

Yeah I'm running on an Active line plus mid drive motor and it isnt' super hilly around there

 

[Andy-Mat]

So I've been buying a bunch of spares for my Ebike and I've come to the chain. A replacement E-bike change costs around about £20 but a stand chain costs £8. I've got a lot of conflicted reports from the internet saying there is no point getting a E-bike drive chain over a standard bicycle chain.

What do you guys think?

My take is to ask, where is your motor?
If it is in either the front or rear wheel, then a good cheap chain is fine as only your own "Pedal Power" goes via it to the rear wheel. It will be far less stressed than when on a normal bike,as the motor "assists".
But if you have a central motor, around the cranks, then the electric power goes via that chain as well in the ones I have seen! Then you might want to buy the better one, assuming it really is better.
Or invest in a chain with roller bearings (assuming they are still available for bikes!).
I myself buy good cheap chains on ebay, I keep them clean and lubricated and I have never had a problem. They last several years. Though I have found that Shimano sprockets need replacing at the same time with new, every 2 - 3 years from memory.
But I don't have bikes with a central motor either, as I find them engineering wise, only from friends experiences, as expensive, parts wear out quickly and they become unreliable, and they do not do even 10% of my average yearly distance.....
Some (Bosch is one) have plastic gears in them, well I ask you........?????
Your final choice of course.
Andy

 

[KirstinS]

I buy mid range chain on a deal. On my mid drive mtb I am on my second chain at 3500miles on the odo. But it needs changing again really

 

[flecc]

Some (Bosch is one) have plastic gears in them, well I ask you........?????

Other than direct drive ones, so do most hub motors.
.

 

[Andy-Mat]

Other than direct drive ones, so do most hub motors.
.

I believe you completely, its one of the things I really dislike about them, and having Scottish blood, the prices are also unappealing too!!
Also, I see on German e-bike web sites that many have had problems with these plastic gears in Bosch units, and sometimes the repair "quality" leaves a lot to be desired......(I am fluent in German by the way).
As an engineer of many years standing, such designs cause the hair on my neck to rise!!
I prefer to buy cheap, but new, and simply with some of the money saved, replace any bits that do not come up to the standard, eg. break in the first few years!!
This has stood me in good stead over many years of bikes and almost 10 years of (2) e-bikes!!
Regards
Andy

 

[flecc]

I believe you completely, its one of the things I really dislike about them

The big advantage of nylon gears is the relative silence. The occasional wheel hub motor using steel gears has been very noisy.

Panasonic's original series one crank unit used three stage helical steel gears which were quiet, but of course expensive to produce

But helical cut gears are difficult to apply for hub motor epicyclics with the restricted available width making it difficult to deal adequately with their lateral thrust.
.

 

[Charliefox]

My take is to ask, where is your motor?
If it is in either the front or rear wheel, then a good cheap chain is fine as only your own "Pedal Power" goes via it to the rear wheel. It will be far less stressed than when on a normal bike,as the motor "assists".
But if you have a central motor, around the cranks, then the electric power goes via that chain as well in the ones I have seen! Then you might want to buy the better one, assuming it really is better.
Or invest in a chain with roller bearings (assuming they are still available for bikes!).
I myself buy good cheap chains on ebay, I keep them clean and lubricated and I have never had a problem. They last several years. Though I have found that Shimano sprockets need replacing at the same time with new, every 2 - 3 years from memory.
But I don't have bikes with a central motor either, as I find them engineering wise, only from friends experiences, as expensive, parts wear out quickly and they become unreliable, and they do not do even 10% of my average yearly distance.....
Some (Bosch is one) have plastic gears in them, well I ask you........?????
Your final choice of course.
Andy

Geared hub motors have 'plastic' (actually Nylon) gears too. 3 of them in fact but at least they are cheap! I do see your point though even as I have added a central motored MTB (Yamaha Motor) to my collection. I had to try it before I die!

 

[nemesis]

KMC chains have always been the first choice for strength and durability in independent tests,i won`t use anything else on the Bafang BBSHD and it is ridden on high performance.
In the past i did use the KMC e-bike chain but after using the standard ones for over two years i have found no difference.

 

[egroover]

I only buy kmc chains now, they last well and are cheap. Plus the 'missing link' system is a doddle to fit and remove

 

[kingsknight]

thank you very much for your replies. ill grab a kmc chain as my spare

 

[Deno]

Bike was fitter originally with a KMC x10 'normal bike' chain. I Used a couple of those, usually lasting about 1900mls each. Saw a deal with the KMC ebike rated chain and bout a couple and saw no difference in chain life - if anything they didn't go to 1900mls but it was mid winter when I used them. Since bought YBN ebike chain and am on the first one but its not great, doesn't shift well and has skipped from new (new cassette and chainring fitted at the same time).

Upshot, I will be buying normal KMC chains in future.

 

[Deno]

Since bought YBN ebike chain and am on the first one but its not great, doesn't shift well and has skipped from new (new cassette and chainring fitted at the same time).

Upshot, I will be buying normal KMC chains in future.

I wanted to correct myself here. The YBN chain was not responsible for the skipping. My freewheel was gunked up and I think it was 'driving' the chain forward and causing it to skip, since fitted a new freewheel (new wheel actually), cleaned the chain and its been fine. I will update on how long it lasts, its done ~800mls to date.