Please do the test I suggested and let us know the results.BUT sorry to contradict a few comments on here. There is no detectable resistance in the hub ( yes I know by definition it's using energy, but I can't detect it
When I said i couldn't detect it I meant as I was riding. We all know you don't get energy for nothing. Having the lights on does not slow the bike in any noticeable way and, as I mentioned, the range is so good if the Dynamo takes a mile off the range it's irrelevant.Please do the test I suggested and let us know the results.
okeydokey, this should make heath Robinson proud, and I wouldn't mind doing it myself in the parallel universe where I live on farm on the coast on a Caribbean island and have a huge workshop and infinite amounts of free time): http://minisystem.blogspot.co.uk/2011/11/sturmey-archer-dynohub-magnet-upgrade.htmlAhh slight problem then. 10w banggood led light cannot be powered especially if rear light is added to circuit.
They look great(if pricey), but will they work with alluminium rims?How about non contact Magnic dynamo lights, not cheap like the aldi ones though.
http://www.magniclight.com/MagnicLight/index.php/en/
They're just a more expensive way of not getting something for nothing. It doesn't really matter how you take energy from the wheel and turn it into light. The result is more or less the same: if you want a lot of light, you introduce drag on the wheel. The whole idea of having an ebike is to use some power from a battery to assist the bike. It doesn't make any sense to use the bike to assist the battery. The only case where it would make sense would be to use wasted energy from the bike like using braking to charge the battery, but we don't do that for reasons too.How about non contact Magnic dynamo lights, not cheap like the aldi ones though.
http://www.magniclight.com/MagnicLight/index.php/en/
there's a thought, I remember sidewall dynamos decelerating a bike very usefully on a very steep downhill here, if there were a remote way to engage and disengage a sidewall dynamo it could save a lot of brake wear..They're just a more expensive way of not getting something for nothing. It doesn't really matter how you take energy from the wheel and turn it into light. The result is more or less the same: if you want a lot of light, you introduce drag on the wheel. The whole idea of having an ebike is to use some power from a battery to assist the bike. It doesn't make any sense to use the bike to assist the battery. The only case where it would make sense would be to use wasted energy from the bike like using braking to charge the battery, but we don't do that for reasons too.
brake pads are cheaper than tyre sidewalls, and easier to change toothere's a thought, I remember sidewall dynamos decelerating a bike very usefully on a very steep downhill here, if there were a remote way to engage and disengage a sidewall dynamo it could save a lot of brake wear..
But that's not how they wear. When hard and soft materials are in friction, it's the hard material that suffers the wear. I remember over sixty years ago when most of Britain commuted by bike and bottle dynamos were commonplace and used daily for a large part of the year, the serrations on dynamo wheels were often worn right down near to smooth. I never knew of a single incidence of tyre wall wear ending life before the tread was finished.brake pads are cheaper than tyre sidewalls, and easier to change too
as a somewhat tangent - look athe pics on this guy's blog - especially the teardrop fender design, so art deco/fifties/elegant its enough to make one want a dynamo light http://minisystem.blogspot.co.uk/I remember people "fixing" a worn out dynamo pulley by fitting a rubber ring from a pop bottle stopper over it. It worked OK until it rained.
I stand corrected (as usual), however are modern tyres built with the heavy serrated sidewalls that my "Dunlop Roadsters" (think that was their name 26" x 1 7/8") used to have to withstand the effect of a dynamo wheel rubbing on themBut that's not how they wear. When hard and soft materials are in friction, it's the hard material that suffers the wear. I remember over sixty years ago when most of Britain commuted by bike and bottle dynamos were commonplace and used daily for a large part of the year, the serrations on dynamo wheels were often worn right down near to smooth. I never knew of a single incidence of tyre wall wear ending life before the tread was finished.
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Yes they have them still, not surprising since today's better cycle lighting firms still make bottle dynamos. I had a pair of Maxxis tyre on a bottle dynamo e-bike which were branded as "For Electric Bike" on the sidewalls, and they had the serrated sidewalls. Both my eZee bikes had Kendas with serrations on the tyre sidewalls and so do the Schwalbe tyres they have fitted now:I stand corrected (as usual), however are modern tyres built with the heavy serrated sidewalls that my "Dunlop Roadsters" (think that was their name 26" x 1 7/8") used to have to withstand the effect of a dynamo wheel rubbing on them
I think logic has long since been abandoned in this thread.Perhaps a thought here ....l:
My experiences too, the Shimano hubdynos having no discernable drag. In contrast the bottle dynamo on the Lafree Lite e-bike that I owned and shown below had a suprising amount of drag, engaging it was actually worse than having a two wheeled trailer attached on the flat:Like lowranger I have a Kalkhoff with the Shimano dynamo front hub. There is no discernible drag either with the light on or off and in the context of the power from the motor the slight drag which must exist is meaningless. Unlike the old bottle dynamos which had noticeable drag.