Dual voltage

[Benjahmin]

When i bought the recumbent it came with an orrible Dillenger 48v kit - that's gone.
Fitted an AKM 128 with a dual voltage KT and lcd5.
So I can now use the original underslung 48v battery, but I've also mounted a din rail to take my 36v rack battery.
So if using up the 48v (range is not great), how long a disconnect should I leave before connecting the 36v?
I'm wondering about any residual loading from inrush capacitors.

 

[AGS]

If you disconnect the battery and then switch on the display power button the capacitors in the controller will discharge and you should be good to go.

The display should come on for a few seconds while the capacitors are discharging and then it should go blank.

I always do this when I’m doing some work on my bikes to make sure the capacitors discharge properly.

You can use a voltmeter the first time you do it to satisfy yourself that the controller discharges.

 

[saneagle]

When i bought the recumbent it came with an orrible Dillenger 48v kit - that's gone.
Fitted an AKM 128 with a dual voltage KT and lcd5.
So I can now use the original underslung 48v battery, but I've also mounted a din rail to take my 36v rack battery.
So if using up the 48v (range is not great), how long a disconnect should I leave before connecting the 36v?
I'm wondering about any residual loading from inrush capacitors.

If you're going to swap between 36v and 48v batteries, you need to make sure that you connect each battery when it's at an unambiguous voltage otherwise the controller won't know you've changed and your fully-charged 36v battery will be switched off when it reaches 41v.

 

[Benjahmin]

Won't that always happen?
The system has nicely swapped from 36 to 48 without problem. I guess to get it to swap back I'd have to connect a partially discharged 36v volt.
So........
If the full 36 was used first and part discharged, then the full 48 could be used, then after the ride the partially discharged 36 could be connected to get the system to swap back ready for next use.
Jeez - what a faff.

 

[Sturmey]

Won't that always happen?
The system has nicely swapped from 36 to 48 without problem. I guess to get it to swap back I'd have to connect a partially discharged 36v volt.
So........
If the full 36 was used first and part discharged, then the full 48 could be used, then after the ride the partially discharged 36 could be connected to get the system to swap back ready for next use.
Jeez - what a faff.

There are 'L' settings on some KT LCD's and controllers which allow you to force the controller's LVC to say 30 volts which is an option but has its drawbacks. I have never actually tried it but the settings are on my LCD's

After finishing C14 parameter setting...........
1. L1 parameters are applicable to the automatic under voltage controller. The default of the factory L1 is 0.
1.1 L1=0, the automatic undervoltage controller can automatically select the under voltage value according to the battery voltage.
1.2 L1=1, the undervoltage value of the automatic undervoltage controller isconfirmed to be 20V.
1.3 L1 = 2, the under-voltage value of the automatic under-voltage controller is forcibly confirmed to be 30V.
1.4 L1 = 3, the under-voltage value of the automatic under-voltage controller is forcibly confirmed to be 40

 

[Benjahmin]

Thanks Sturmey. No 'L' settings in the spec that I've got.

 

[AGS]

My KT controller has L settings. It’s L1 where you can set the under voltage value to be manual or automatic.

 

[Sturmey]

Thanks Sturmey. No 'L' settings in the spec that I've got.

Just checked, my LCD5 has L settings. To check mine, I scrolled through the P and C settings as normal. After C14 flashes, hit center button quick once and C14 stopped flashing. Then press the up and down button together for about 10 seconds in my case and this brought me into L1. This also works on my other two LCD3's (2018 & 2019) so I presume its a normal feature.