Does anyone use a torque wrench on their bike religiously?

[Fordulike]

I only use my torque wrench to tighten the crank arm bolts, and tighten everything else by feel.

Does anyone use a torque wrench to tighten all the nuts and bolts on their bike?

I'm just wondering if there would be fewer creaks and rattles if everything was correctly torqued, and whether tightening by feel can lead to premature failure of components?

 

[tillson]

I use one when a bolt torque is specified, everything else gets done by feel. On my bike, the Panasonic motor mounting bolt, rear wheel nuts and brake parts are the most critical and I always tighten these with a torque wrench.

 

[Yamdude]

Not me, i'd rather do it by feel. You never know for sure if a torque wrench has gone out of calibration.
Dont use em on my motorcycles either..... i guess you either trust your own skills, or you dont.

 

[flecc]

Never, always by feel.
.

 

[Emo Rider]

Yes I do in cases where it is reqired. Threads are in reality springs. They, at the correct torque, exert the optimim pressure on the the opposing thread to hold the assembly together. Too tight and there is risk of the threads shearing or stripping. This also can damage assemblies that require the correct torque. Not enough pressure result in the threads potentially loosening. An experienced mechanic can put together assemblies, that do not require spot on torque, without a torque wrench and be reasonably close. However, even these assemblies would serve better if they were torqued. Hope this helps.

 

[Emo Rider]

Not me, i'd rather do it by feel. You never know for sure if a torque wrench has gone out of calibration.
Dont use em on my motorcycles either..... i guess you either trust your own skills, or you dont.

When necessarily, an adjustable torque wrench can be calibrated by a qualified metrologist. One way of maintaining the calibration on a torque wrench is to set it to zero, if it is possible, when not in use.

 

[EddiePJ]

Not me, i'd rather do it by feel. You never know for sure if a torque wrench has gone out of calibration.
Dont use em on my motorcycles either..... i guess you either trust your own skills, or you dont.

You wouldn't have been allowed within a country mile of my GP125 and 250 race bike engines, or bikes.
Not a single bolt or nut was ever fitted without the aid of a torque wrench. I fully trust my bike maintenance and 2 stroke engine rebuilding skills, but I trust the manufacturers quoted torque requirements more than a that'll do approach. Why would I want to risk my life, or the life of others by not using one.


As for the e-bike related question.

I use both methods. Generally the by feel, is on plastic items such as covers/cases.

I also feel that say in the case of repeatedly reading things like Haibike's loosing rear suspension bolts, that the problem does not lay at the feet of Haibike. It is either down to poor PDI as in the case of the bike that had only covered 25 miles, and beyond that, it is just down to a lack of any kind of maintenance regime by owners. Common sense dictates that design faults/defect aside, that if you don't look after something, sooner or later it will fail.
On that subject, I still say that fitting cable ties through the bolt holes to prevent the bike from loosing the bolt, is nothing more than an utter bodge. All that will happen is that the bolt will work fractionally loose because it can't be checked, the suspension movement will eventually allow the linkage to move and will strip the thread. Which is better, check and adjust as required, or buy a whole new rear end, because cable ties have been fitted.

I remove the crank arms and covers on my bike at least once a month, to remove and clean out the inside of the covers and to check engine mounting bolts. I did have a creak for the first time last week though. Every incident is traceable and has a reason, and the reason for that one, was simply down to me experimenting with an anti seize spray that someone had asked me to try. It was just a bit too good. I have put it on the spline, but had been careless got it on the thread.

 

[Yamdude]

Anyone who wants to use a torque wrench, hey fill yer boots, i aint telling you not to.
But i've been getting by fine for 40 years without one.... and i'm not likely to change now.

 

[D C]

I've somehow managed for about 60 years without one and got along fine although I've been meaning to get one for the last 30 years or so. Anyone got any recommendations?
Dave.

 

[flecc]

I've somehow managed for about 60 years without one and got along fine

Me too, including in the vehicle trade I'm qualified in. Many years of experience do count.
.

 

[soundwave]

what is the torque setting for the rear of my haibike?

 

[awol]

I will use a torque wrench where there is more than one bolt doing the holding, taking each bolt up gradually and evenly to ensure even tension across whatever it is being held.

 

[Emo Rider]

what is the torque setting for the rear of my haibike?

this HTML class. Value is http://www.futek.com
Click support/smart tools/at online calculators click bolt torque calculator.


This will take you to a torque setting calculator. There may be a symbol on the bolt that tells you what type of material it is, searchable on Google. Failing that use the better grade steel selection.

 

[Alan Quay]

I use an ordinary spanner, religiously.

I pull it up to where I think it should be and pray.

 

[Emo Rider]

this HTML class. Value is http://www.futek.com
Click support/smart tools/at online calculators click bolt torque calculator.


This will take you to a torque setting calculator. There may be a symbol on the bolt that tells you what type of material it is, searchable on Google. Failing that use the better grade steel selection.

If you are putting a steel bolt into an aluminium receiving tread, calculate your torque based on the aluminium threads.

 

[Croxden]

Martin uses one on my bikes, it's the best I can do. Never have any problems that way. Apart from a trek to OnBike in Worcestershire.

 

[tillson]

Yes I do in cases where it is reqired. Threads are in reality springs. They, at the correct torque, exert the optimim pressure on the the opposing thread to hold the assembly together.

That's a good analogy. Of course different materials have a different modulus of elasticity, so whilst a certain "feel" on a 12 mm bolt made from mild steel might be ok, it may push a bolt made from another material into the plastic deformation region. In other words you may weaken bolts made from unfamiliar materials by using the the old trusted, "feel". That can lead to a sudden and catastrophic failure, particularly on aircraft where many different materials are used.

 

[Fordulike]

One way of maintaining the calibration on a torque wrench is to set it to zero, if it is possible, when not in use.

Yep, do that every time I put it away. It suggests doing this in the supplied instructions too.

 

[Emo Rider]

That's a good analogy. Of course different materials have a different modulus of elasticity, so whilst a certain "feel" on a 12 mm bolt made from mild steel might be ok, it may push a bolt made from another material into the plastic deformation region. In other words you may weaken bolts made from unfamiliar materials by using the the old trusted, "feel". That can lead to a sudden and catastrophic failure, particularly on aircraft where many different materials are used.

You are spot on with this. Regardless of the material, it is elasticity of the thread material that determines the amount of torque required.

 

[Cyclezee]

Anyone who wants to use a torque wrench, hey fill yer boots, i aint telling you not to.
But i've been getting by fine for 40 years without one.... and i'm not likely to change now.

Snap.....oops

Actually I do use a torque wrench in several instances, if anyone can tell by feel that an axle nut is tightened to 45Nm they are much better than I am and there are probably a number of your out there of you out there.