Do titanium handlebars absorb much shock?
- Thread starter I893469365902345609348566
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Who is it you're adressing ?. Oh you think this is twitter or something like that and are trying to gain followers.
Yawn.
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Wrist pain is certainly real for many older riders, even with a fairly sit up and beg position and relatively little pressure on the wrists. I think the angle of the bars (both slope back and slope down) is more important than the bar material, and so is the material and shape of the grips. The best angles and grips vary from person to person, and for a given person on ride type and age.
The bars on our Motus are just right for me. Our tandem came with bars that were too straight and I replaced them with more swept back ones; unfortunately a little too swept back for maximum comfort, but OK. I've been thinking of trying some sort of shock absorbing stem.
The bars on our Motus are just right for me. Our tandem came with bars that were too straight and I replaced them with more swept back ones; unfortunately a little too swept back for maximum comfort, but OK. I've been thinking of trying some sort of shock absorbing stem.
Oh absolutely. How your hands grip the bars, the bars themselves, their sweep and angle is critical. Wrists need to be straight, and if they arent, a lifetimes riding will present problems. But most of that will be down to being uninformed or giving it little attention.
It's like saddle height, and how the knee is or straightness of the leg as the crank goes through its rotation. I've seen too many who clearly have their saddles way too low.
That looks great! I'll send a link to my friend with the titanium MTB. He's retiring from work soon (or so he says) and will presumably have much more time for cycling and paragliding. Both activities at the same time may start a perilous trend. What hub drive have you installed and is the controller in the bag? What conversion kit have you used? He was considering mid-drive for when he can't hack it anymore "The time will come," were his words. I think he should convert the bike he already has and enjoys using, rather than buy a new one.
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That looks very interesting. My wrists are coping for now, the pain may actually help accelerate the very slow healing, but thank you for your suggestion. Sadly, I can't install that either unless I transfer my kit to a different bike. Until then, I may buy a titanium handlebar, if I can find the right size. The idea of attempting to trim titanium doesn't appeal.The Original -
vintage retro mountain bike Girvin suspension flex stem #171 | eBay
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I saw something similar looking on aliexpress for far less than half that. The listing was labelled as a Reshift Shockstop.
The original conversion kit was a generic Bafang rear hub 250W for freewheel kit off eBay. At the time, supplies were not good, and in retrospect I should maybe have waited until the cassette version was more readily available.
The controller and all the spare cables are in the bag, there were few options to fit the stuff in the frame triangle area as its fairly small and you need room to get the battery on and off.
One thing I discovered was you get to like the eBike quite quickly, so I set about making sure I did not have to wait weeks for a new motor wheel for instance coming from China.
So I have since bought another rear wheel as a spare which is a Sparticle 250W, built here in the UK, that has cassette so all the original Shimano 9 speed gears are back on. If that motor were to fail, I have the original Bafang wheel to swap in, which allowing for changing the rear gear shifter back to an 8 speed, I would be back and running in an hour or so.
One of the benefits of the DIY approach, to me at least, is that your not trapped in the system where the manufacturer can make it difficult or impossible to get spares. The DIY parts are cheap, so I already have here as spares, a motor wheel, controller and cables, brake sensors, PAS sensor and display, two batteries as well.
I have been thinking of getting a bare rear hub motor and building another cassette based rear wheel, mainly to see if I can do it, but I would then have a 26" wheel conversion kit spare with not many miles on it.
The controller and all the spare cables are in the bag, there were few options to fit the stuff in the frame triangle area as its fairly small and you need room to get the battery on and off.
One thing I discovered was you get to like the eBike quite quickly, so I set about making sure I did not have to wait weeks for a new motor wheel for instance coming from China.
So I have since bought another rear wheel as a spare which is a Sparticle 250W, built here in the UK, that has cassette so all the original Shimano 9 speed gears are back on. If that motor were to fail, I have the original Bafang wheel to swap in, which allowing for changing the rear gear shifter back to an 8 speed, I would be back and running in an hour or so.
One of the benefits of the DIY approach, to me at least, is that your not trapped in the system where the manufacturer can make it difficult or impossible to get spares. The DIY parts are cheap, so I already have here as spares, a motor wheel, controller and cables, brake sensors, PAS sensor and display, two batteries as well.
I have been thinking of getting a bare rear hub motor and building another cassette based rear wheel, mainly to see if I can do it, but I would then have a 26" wheel conversion kit spare with not many miles on it.
Must confess I've been mulling over trying a hub drive because of their long term reliability - how much torque does that produce? The Sparticle website doesn't say. The low torque of 250W hubs has thus far put me off, seems to be about only 40nm - not enough for my trailer hauling needs.
I dont know exactly, but whilst its plenty for me, its maybe just a small amount less than the original 250W Bafang.
I did think about a front hub, so much less hassle than the rear, you could swap in a spare in a few minutes. But the front suspension forks are too good to miss out on, and I gather fitting a hub motor to alluminium bodied forks is less than a good idea.
Goto https://wooshbikes.co.uk/?hubkits and search down to WHICH MOTOR?
That gives torque for several hub motors; mostly above 40nm, some by a significant amount.
A tram line bit my front wheel a while back, sending me and the bike flying, ending with a badly bruised and sprained wrist.
To get a more upright position I got a pair of stuttgarter handlebars, raised the headstock up and back and fitted some palm grips. I now don't have to put weight on my wrists, the site one has now healed.
To get a more upright position I got a pair of stuttgarter handlebars, raised the headstock up and back and fitted some palm grips. I now don't have to put weight on my wrists, the site one has now healed.
I know you shouldn't trust an individual review, but the second one down says:
'Very well made, wide and strong. Only issue is that it’s very stiff and it transmits all the bumps to your body unless you’re got a suspension fork. '
I suspect you're paying for reduced weight rather than more flex.
Call me crazy but how about some well padded cycling gloves? Specialized make some nice ones, as a random example:
Specialized BG Dual Gel Mitts / Short Finger Cycling Gloves | Tredz Bikes
Save 10% - Specialized BG Dual Gel Mitts / Short Finger Cycling Gloves £27.00 or available with 0% APR finance on baskets over £99. All Short finger gloves are delivered free to the UK mainland*, 365 day returns & Price Match. Buy Now.
www.tredz.co.uk
It pays to wait. I didn't proceed with my purchase on the website so got an email with a 10% discount code REDSHIFT10 to bring the price down to a very tempting (NOT) £310.49.
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