Do I need to file dropouts?

[Max1980]

Do I need to file before final fitting or can I get away with as-is?

 

[Wheelie]

Can't quite see whether the axle is dropping right in, but my first thought would be never file your dropouts, file the axle if needed.

 

[Max1980]

Can't quite see whether the axle is dropping right in, but my first thought would be never file your dropouts, file the axle if needed.

Thanks! Added some better picks. The axle drops right in but I've seen people go deeper so the anti rotation lock washer is fully within the dropout, then again I've seen people go a bit shallower too.

 

[Nealh]

The torque washer is doing nothing, it has only a good bearing on one side so it next to useless.
This is why we see s issues of drop outs wearing or wheels spinning out , a typical geared hub axle is 12mm deep which is in most cases 3mm shy of most bikes with 9mm QR drop out. Not very many bikes have deep drop outs.

If one wants to do a proper job then the drop out needs to be deeper by the amount we can see of torque washer tab, other wise one should fit two Torque arms and make sure they are secure, one piece arms are best.
The P clip/ Jubilee clip type arrangement for secuirng is a poor substitute.

 

[Nealh]

In the pics if you zoom closely one can see at the seat area clear daylight/space between the axle and drop out seat bottom, to start with one may gain 1.5mm - 2mm by carefully useing a rat tail file or a dremel tool to gently shape the drop out corner where it meets the side flat to allow the axle to sit better.

The pinch points are arrowed where gentle shaping is needed.
View attachment 48750

 

[Nealh]

One can rotate the tabbed torque washer so the tab actually is located at the drop out seat.

 

[Max1980]

Thanks so essentially it's either file the dropout or add torque arms. Filings sounds doable

 

[Nealh]

What ever you do to the dropouts at least one TA will be required for ali DO's.

 

[Wheelie]

I agree with Nealh about the torque arm. Your dropouts look very shallow and the frame is Aluminium. I still wouldn't file the frame or rear hanger, they are designed to use the least metal yet still give enough strength - so removing metal is going to weaken the DOs. If you accidentally create a stress point, the dropout lug could fail. I'd take a little off the axle so it fits snug into the DOs and fit a torque arm. Whatever you do axle/DO wise, you need to do the same on both sides.

 

[Benjahmin]

On the non-drive side you have room to fit one of these:

Store

www.hammer-ebikes.com

Check the axle flats size before ordering.

 

[Nealh]

One shouldn't do anything to the axle as the nuts are m12 x 1.25mm, any reduction on axle size is a no.
On both drops outs inc the derailleur hanger there is ample material left if one was to remove up to 2mm. The hanger is easy as one can remove it to get a good fit, as long as one does actually square the bottom of the DO seat then it will remain strong.

 

[Wheelie]

OK my final advice to OP.
You can remove some of the thread of the axle without affecting its' structural integrity (hub manufacturers recommend this), you cannot remove any material from a carefully designed frame or indeed dropout in the same way and guarantee that it does not weaken the frame/dropout.
You should aim for the centre of the new axle to be the same as the centre of the old one, especially when using disc brakes. If you move the centre of the axle you are also moving the centre of the brake disc.
Investigate installing a torque arm (or two). Most people will tell you it's a must with aluminium frames. When converting a bike you are adding extra stress and strain to the frame which it was not originally designed to withstand. In that case removing frame material should be avoided.
Everyone has an opinion, Google "hub motor aluminium frame" and make up your own mind. Hope this helps (although it probably doesn't, sorry).