Ditch-the-Swytch bike kit

[xla99]

Hi my take

1)a 17a controller should provide ample improvements in power output over the original 15a? job. a 22a controller would probably require you to limit use to pas levels 1-4, leaving 5 for the extra boost when needed only as to not overheat the motor? But if you have steep climbs that need that extra oomph in short bursts then it is an option.

2) swytch pas connector plug is what format?

julet or jst are the 2 options for kt controllers if you need to plug n play the connection if you cant buy the controller with the matching connector. buying a new pas that will plug in is your only non cable hack solution.
If plugs are compatible its worth a punt trying the original sensor. - configuring the pas will be required, it might be easier to just cycle through each option and test with a pedal push than try to understand the chenglish in that aspect of the pdf manual..

3) chances are the controller system will work with the throttle and brake cut offs out of the box with no parameter changes, to enable pas use the pas sensor will need configuring (above comments)

But if you have issues/problems just start a thread in here..

Hi there,

Thanks for the details about the 17a controller. That would be enough for my usage. About the PAS, it's just that the current one is working and I've two other new ones sleeping in my closet.

By tinkering, I meant having to change connectors myself, welding and stuff like that. Playing with the components and searching for the proper settings would be fine.

Regards.

Alex.

 

[xla99]

You choose the controller you need. KT comes in 14A, 17A, 20A and 22A. Your motor can handle maybe 17A at 36v and 14A at 48v. The Swytch controller is 36v 12A IIRC. If you were happy with that, then get the 14A KT one. Only go to 17A if you were struggling on hills.

The KT controller should work with your pedal sensor if you set the parameter for it correctly and wire it correctly. To save all the trouble, it might be an idea to get the complete kit from Topbikekit that includes throttle, PAS, brakes, speed sensor and LCD with the correct connectors correctly wired. The problems people get with pedal sensors are:
- Different sensors have the same connector, but different wiring sequence to the controller.
- 12 magnet sensors are normally handed, so only work on one side of the bike (not a problem for yours, as it'salready working)
- Incorrect setting parameters
- Magnet disc fitted inverted (not a problem with yours, as it'salready working)

When you permutate all those issues, there are a huge number of possibilities to get things wrong, and when people come on here for help, everybody is shouting particular possibilities from those permutations so the victim has no idea which direction to go, and they start jumping from one to the other, then give up, instead of eliminating possibilities in a methodical manner until the solution presents itself.

Yes, I got lost in the forum with so many information. It may be indeed a better idea to get the full KT kit if forcing the Swytch PAS and sensor could be that complicate. I'll think about that.

Thanks.

 

[saneagle]

Yes, I got lost in the forum with so many information. It may be indeed a better idea to get the full KT kit if forcing the Swytch PAS and sensor could be that complicate. I'll think about that.

Thanks.

It's not complicated as long as you're methodical. One problem is that the sealed type of connectors are very difficult to test. If you have the block type, you can see the wires, so it's just check the colours match and swap some pins if necessary. When you have the correct connection sequence, you can then test the pulse, which will confirm whether you have the correct installation orientations. When that's working, you can move on to the settings.

In the various threads, people were doing the settings without knowing whether they had the correct connections nor the correct installation orientation. You can't check everything at once. You have to check in the correct sequence.

 

[thelarkbox]

might as well have a go..
IM not an engineer/electrician etc.. and therfore have done everything wrong at least once..

Many early self inspired projects (pre web) did to my shame involve twisted wire connections in many dc battery circuits, including my 1st central bike light switch attempt circa 1970.. which both worked and held up to pre teen muckin about on bikes fine.. (as i recall... selective recall??)
a pas sensor is operating with milliamps of current so a bodge job secured with a hot glue dollop will either last for years trouble free or show up as an intermittent irritant pdq.. so if thats you comfort/skill level - go for it. (though @guerney 's life-hack of carrying a throttle control to plug in for emergency use may be a wise safety net /precaution if solid connections are not employed.)

 

[guerney]

@guerney 's life-hack of carrying a throttle control to plug in for emergency use may be a wise safety net /precaution if solid connections are not employed.

This type is quick to attach and release - no need to pull stuff off the handlebar.