Help! Disaster, Hub motor failed, discontinued!

[Nealh]

Yes if the connector goes together with a final click that wasn't noticed before may well be where the bad electrical contact comes from, it resonates and can appear to be coming via the hub.
For the hub bearings one should be able to hear grating or feel the roughness by manually turning the wheel forwards.

 

[Nealh]

What we do notice is that for the first 5 miles or so it is quiet. Then it builds up and gets worse and worse. I was thinking that it was the bearings getting warm but the electrical source does sound like it is worth investigating.
Thanks for re-assurance about generic parts. I was pretty certain that would be the case. A lot of investment for a small firm otherwise.

If the motor connector click doesn't rectify the noise, then check the phase wire bullets (if used ) at the controller end. During a ride check to see how warm they become once the noise starts.

 

[NOTTNICK]

OK. A 10 mile cycle:
All fine for 7.5 miles. Thought we had it cracked.
Then it started, a creaking / clicking noise.
Also it seems to be associated with a slight loss of power.
It stopped for about 1/4 mile at one stage.

If the motor connector click doesn't rectify the noise, then check the phase wire bullets (if used ) at the controller end. During a ride check to see how warm they become once the noise starts.

I did check all couplers after it started, none were warm.

I also recall, and had forgotten, right at the very start of this problem there was a complete loss of power on one ride, it came back intermittently.

So it does look like it is an electrical fault.

I had taken it to two separate Nottingham bike shops, one a big city centre e-bike company. Both referred me to Benelli!
I still have the problem though. I guess now I need to find a repairer who will take it on.

 

[WheezyRider]

OK. A 10 mile cycle:
All fine for 7.5 miles. Thought we had it cracked.
Then it started, a creaking / clicking noise.
Also it seems to be associated with a slight loss of power.
It stopped for about 1/4 mile at one stage.



I did check all couplers after it started, none were warm.

I also recall, and had forgotten, right at the very start of this problem there was a complete loss of power on one ride, it came back intermittently.

So it does look like it is an electrical fault.

I had taken it to two separate Nottingham bike shops, one a big city centre e-bike company. Both referred me to Benelli!
I still have the problem though. I guess now I need to find a repairer who will take it on.

You're making progress, keep at it. Probably swap in a new controller and you'll be back in business, or it could be something as simple as poor connection from the battery to the controller, or maybe battery BMS playing up.

In my experience, most bike shops are a waste of space. Unless you want to buy a high end mid drive, they don't want to know you.

 

[vfr400]

Repair is not difficult, regardless of the cause. The first thing you need to check is whether there are connectors at the controller end of the motor cable. Follow the cable until you come to the controller. You'll probably have to unscrew something to get at it. Take some phptos of what you find. It's probably inside that lump underneath the battery.

 

[NOTTNICK]

OK, final update:
I swapped the wheel over to my 29" bike (tricky as I had to swap the disc rotor as well).
It is definitely in the hub as it got noisy almost straight away .
I now have to find someone who can fix or replace it.
Thanks for all the help here.
Nick

 

[NOTTNICK]

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Do you think is this what I have? I am sure it is a cassette (Epoch cocs 0004) and it is 350W

If that's the case, this might be the simplest answer

 

[NOTTNICK]

It looks like a Shengyi DWG07. It should be repairable.

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Do you think this is the same? The link you sent is 250W Ours is 350W

https://uk.banggood.com/MXUS-36V-350W-Rear-Cassette-Ebike-Hub-Motor-High-Speed-Brushless-Gear-Hub-Motor-for-Electric-Bicycle-Rear-Wheel-Drive-p-1772708.html?cur_warehouse=CN&ID=6287830&rmmds=search

 

[vfr400]

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Do you think is this what I have? I am sure it is a cassette (Epoch cocs 0004) and it is 350W

If that's the case, this might be the simplest answer

Your is from Shengyi, but all those sort of motors are similar, if not exact clones.

Ebike/Bicycle Brushless Wheel Hub Motor | Shengyi

Ebike brushless motor manufacturer/supplier in China. All the weight is on the motor, which provides maximum traction in different conditions. Competitive price. Get a Quote!

www.syimotor.com

They're very easy to open - just remove the nuts from the axle, then the 6 screws in the side-plate and pull the side-plate off. From there, you'll see what's wrong if anything, like rust, worn gears (not likely) or chaffed wires. If you can't get at the 6 screws because the casette is covering them, you'll need to take the cassette off, for which you need a chain-whip and cassette tool that don't cost much. Any worn parts inside can be bought as spare parts or you can buy a replacement bare motor and swap the whole insides, which saves building a new wheel.

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Check those exact sizes before ordering.

 

[NOTTNICK]

Crikey, I think that the motors must be 250w, just seen that 350w isn't legal! I guess I have misread the original bike spec.

 

[sjpt]

Crikey, I think that the motors must be 250w, just seen that 350w isn't legal! I guess I have misread the original bike spec.

Often the same motor will be badged 250w in some places (eg EU and UK) and 350w elsewhere (eg US, where 350 is legal and people don't want to think they have lost out). It's only a legal idea of 'continuous' power, most 250w motors will generate 600w or more for short periods, depending on the controller.

However according to the strict letter of the law, it should be marked 250w. The chances of being caught, even with a blindingly obvious 1000w motor, are pretty low. Similarly, there is a 15.5mph (25kph) assisted limit, and again the chances of being caught are very small. (Soundwave will tell you)

 

[NOTTNICK]

Your is from Shengyi, but all those sort of motors are similar, if not exact clones.

Ebike/Bicycle Brushless Wheel Hub Motor | Shengyi

Ebike brushless motor manufacturer/supplier in China. All the weight is on the motor, which provides maximum traction in different conditions. Competitive price. Get a Quote!

www.syimotor.com

They're very easy to open - just remove the nuts from the axle, then the 6 screws in the side-plate and pull the side-plate off. From there, you'll see what's wrong if anything, like rust, worn gears (not likely) or chaffed wires. If you can't get at the 6 screws because the casette is covering them, you'll need to take the cassette off, for which you need a chain-whip and cassette tool that don't cost much. Any worn parts inside can be bought as spare parts or you can buy a replacement bare motor and swap the whole insides, which saves building a new wheel.

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Check those exact sizes before ordering.

That is so helpful. I have ordered the maintenance kit just now and will look inside when it arrives. I may well be adding to this thread if I can't find a simple fix. The link you have given has a June delivery date, and all others seem to come from China. There is an Amazon one although I don't think it is cassette. However, if I get what you are saying, I could just swap the workings over from one to the other.
Watch this space. Thanks again.

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[NOTTNICK]

Update: The tool kit arrived today. When I went to remove the cassette - it turned out it was a screw on freewheel. Then (before I started) I also noticed it was very wobbly and loose (not on the bike, but the unit itself. I have just finished swapping it with my (much tighter) freewheel. It's dark now so we can't go out for a ride now, but I am hoping that I have possibly diagnosed the problem. If my bike is now noisy, I shall be thrilled. I will update tomorrow.
I took the motor cover off (easy) and looked inside. It looks pristine.

 

[NOTTNICK]

A faulty screw-on freewheel. (interesting it is 10 speed - unusual).
Only got to this because I had to take it off to get to the motor cover.
Swapped it over onto another bike - and fault transferred with it. Easy solution (and much cheaper).
Appreciate all help.
Happy, can cycle again and have saved a shed-load of money.
Nick

 

[flecc]

A faulty screw-on freewheel. (interesting it is 10 speed - unusual).
Only got to this because I had to take it off to get to the motor cover.
Swapped it over onto another bike - and fault transferred with it. Easy solution (and much cheaper).
Appreciate all help.
Happy, can cycle again and have saved a shed-load of money.
Nick

Good to hear your problem has been solved so easily. Multi sprocket freewheels are nowhere near as reliable as cassettes due to their inboard bearings. I personally think six sprockets is about the limit in freewheels for long life, so ten sprockets with the upper gear sprockets so far out out from the bearings means they put a large twisting strain on the bearings.
.