I think these things are a compromise. A longer range needs a bigger battery, which is heavier. Good hill climbing ability will tend to be a slightly heavier motor. Suspension adds weight. I think it is worth trying a couple more e-bikes for a demo. Low down , balanced weight between front and back is easier to manoeuver when you are pushing it. I think you might struggle to get something hugely better than the Woosh Crusa. Maybe there is stuff that is a bit lighter , with the battery mid mounted, but a lot of bikes will be step backwards for you
Disabled cyclist; with one bad choice behind her, needs help with a new bike
- Thread starter Katymac
- Start date
A Brompton or converted Brompton is about the lightest one may get for your needs.
You want something to ride that is beyond your physical fitness/ health to ride, so a minimalist input bike is out of the question.
As you have found, the Crusa is an ideal bike but too heavy biased to the rear. So you need to try a similar bike but a little better balanced as far as the battery positioning goes, weight wise you aren't really going to get a bike that much lighter thta will do what you want.
A battery in the middle of the bike on the down tube is the best location.
You want something to ride that is beyond your physical fitness/ health to ride, so a minimalist input bike is out of the question.
As you have found, the Crusa is an ideal bike but too heavy biased to the rear. So you need to try a similar bike but a little better balanced as far as the battery positioning goes, weight wise you aren't really going to get a bike that much lighter thta will do what you want.
A battery in the middle of the bike on the down tube is the best location.
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Typically the lightest bike may be a small folder type around 20 - 22kg.
The newer style designed Wisper Wyfarer step thru bikes are still a heavy 26 - 28 kg in weight.
The Wisper Tailwinds are a bit lighter 21 kg - 22kg but they have a slightly different low crossbar design, a halfway bewteen a stepthru and crossbar.
What you want doesn't really exist for your needs so one is going to have to ocompromiseon something, power control system of the Crusa works for you which is found on a lot of bikes , the new bike has the wrong power system for your needs so the more specalist type of bike is out.
Weight is where you will have to compromise and accept it goes hand in hand with most bikes that will suit your needs because of the power you need and the simpler rideability of the PAS system.
The newer style designed Wisper Wyfarer step thru bikes are still a heavy 26 - 28 kg in weight.
The Wisper Tailwinds are a bit lighter 21 kg - 22kg but they have a slightly different low crossbar design, a halfway bewteen a stepthru and crossbar.
What you want doesn't really exist for your needs so one is going to have to ocompromiseon something, power control system of the Crusa works for you which is found on a lot of bikes , the new bike has the wrong power system for your needs so the more specalist type of bike is out.
Weight is where you will have to compromise and accept it goes hand in hand with most bikes that will suit your needs because of the power you need and the simpler rideability of the PAS system.
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We tend to recommend the reliable brands ( often ones not familiar with public as they are specalist e bike brands only) these brands are amonsgt the oldest supplied brands available and with the great CS they are known for, but not main stream names that most people will have heard of.
Typically Wisper and Woosh are two of those and they keep spares and are reliable.
Once you venture into other brands that are a bit more niche then you will need the same type of service , often these niches are around for afew years then disappear or once they have your custom cna be hard to deal with or have the bike repaired due to lack of dealers or UK support.
Typically Wisper and Woosh are two of those and they keep spares and are reliable.
Once you venture into other brands that are a bit more niche then you will need the same type of service , often these niches are around for afew years then disappear or once they have your custom cna be hard to deal with or have the bike repaired due to lack of dealers or UK support.
The issue today vs 10 years go is that ebikes are being sold by every body and choosing the better bike for ones needs is getting harder . Typically Wipser and Woosh don't sell you just any old bike because that is the stock they have , they are better then that and will sell you the bike that most suits your needs as they have had many years of expertise in the game.
For a hub bike one should be looking at 48v , though Wisper have the new 43v bike which approx. give 18-20% more torque/power then 36v bikes.
One could convert a lighter bike and use a BBS01 as guereny has done and use it tuned to max power so that you can pedal is easier or better still us eit with athrottle and ignore the illigality side of it. He uses a samll 20" wheel older type bike that gives high torque for his hills .
One could convert a lighter bike and use a BBS01 as guereny has done and use it tuned to max power so that you can pedal is easier or better still us eit with athrottle and ignore the illigality side of it. He uses a samll 20" wheel older type bike that gives high torque for his hills .
Motor Diameter: 10.5 Inches
Motor Case Length: 11.25 Inches
Motor Shaft Length End to End: 12.25 Inches
Motor Type: Brushless Permanent Magnet
Brushes: No
Weight: 150 lbs.
Max Voltage Input: 360 Volts
Integrated Sensors: Encoder, temperature
Peak Torque: 280 Lb Ft Peak (w/150kW controller)
Peak Power: 210 HP Peak (w/150kW controller)
Max RPM: 10,000
Drive End Shaft: 32 spline 35.5 mm
Thermal Cooling: Internal oil pump with water heat exchange
Warranty Period:1 Year
id recommend one motor for each back wheel n 4 wheel drive 0-60 0.3sec 0-100 1.1 0-200 3.2 0-300 5.2 sec
whats the speed limit in tescos lol id shop at asda if i can go faster
If you reach a stage without a clear way forward it can help if you revisit your needs.
Gather them all together in one post, one on each line. For each one rather than what the bike's like (needs to be light) make it what the bike does (lift into the boot). Put a figure on it if you can (about 20kg max) and preferably explain why (I've one weak arm) or what else might work for you (a low towball rack) and what wouldn't (no space for a boot ramp).
Then hopefully we can get busy devising viable work-arounds so the more you can say about yourself and your terrain and use the better. As others have mentioned small wheels would help in many ways and there are other ways to smooth the ride.
I got 43 miles from my 19.2Ah battery at maximum assistance, over this mixed terrain. It was easy.
The battery on my Dahon Helios is rear rack mounted, but the only time this caused issues, was when I attempted to ascend a 45 degree angled stony dirt tracked slope... the motor was game, and I guess if I had a throttle my bike could have ascended some of it, before I fell off after the bike tipped upwards because weight is imbalanced. Luckily, that wasn't a necessary journey. I've experienced difficulties weighing my bike, but will try again at some point.... however, it measured 22.4kg on my last attempt a couple of months ago - that's with numerous soldered on lights, side mirrors, rear rack, mudguards, various mounts, extension bar, 19.2Ah battery, two Oxford lollipops etc. Unfortunately, I didn't weigh my bike before conversion.
None of the OP's bike fold, therefore how about adding 5.6kg BBS01B kit + 3.6kg 19.2Ah battery + about 2Kg of mudguards and pannier rack to this 10kg bike? = about 21.2Kg? A bit less, with a smaller battery. Wide puncture resistant Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres would increase weight, as could a comfy padded sprung saddle, possibly a replacement swept back handlebar. Looks like there would be more an upright riding position than my Dahon. Again I have no idea if this mini velo is any good to start with, but if the frame is ok, all components could be upgraded, such as the disc brakes. The battery could be mounted to the lower downtube, for better balance. 20" wheels for more torque. Of course the BBS01B's controller would need it's firmware tweaked.
Steel framed Tokyo bike Mini Velos might be better made, heavier, but no disc brakes:
I know a rack and mudguards can be installed, because I've seen them on ebay:
Alternatively: The Crusa's kit seems to work well for the OP, therefore perhaps the OP could get the hub motor kit transferred from the Crusa to a lightweight mini velo, while replacing the old rackmounted battery with a downtube?
The battery on my Dahon Helios is rear rack mounted, but the only time this caused issues, was when I attempted to ascend a 45 degree angled stony dirt tracked slope... the motor was game, and I guess if I had a throttle my bike could have ascended some of it, before I fell off after the bike tipped upwards because weight is imbalanced. Luckily, that wasn't a necessary journey. I've experienced difficulties weighing my bike, but will try again at some point.... however, it measured 22.4kg on my last attempt a couple of months ago - that's with numerous soldered on lights, side mirrors, rear rack, mudguards, various mounts, extension bar, 19.2Ah battery, two Oxford lollipops etc. Unfortunately, I didn't weigh my bike before conversion.
None of the OP's bike fold, therefore how about adding 5.6kg BBS01B kit + 3.6kg 19.2Ah battery + about 2Kg of mudguards and pannier rack to this 10kg bike? = about 21.2Kg? A bit less, with a smaller battery. Wide puncture resistant Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres would increase weight, as could a comfy padded sprung saddle, possibly a replacement swept back handlebar. Looks like there would be more an upright riding position than my Dahon. Again I have no idea if this mini velo is any good to start with, but if the frame is ok, all components could be upgraded, such as the disc brakes. The battery could be mounted to the lower downtube, for better balance. 20" wheels for more torque. Of course the BBS01B's controller would need it's firmware tweaked.
Mini Velo, lightweight, 20"wheels, 10 gears,Kosda city bike, unisex, brand new | eBay
Condition is "New".
www.ebay.co.uk
Steel framed Tokyo bike Mini Velos might be better made, heavier, but no disc brakes:
Mini Velo
The Mini Velo takes the tokyobike concept even further. Super compact so it can be easily carried and stored, the step-through frame design and geometry make it comfortable for sharing between riders of different heights. Small 20" wheels are quick to accelerate and make for a fun ride - perfect...
tokyobike.co.uk
I know a rack and mudguards can be installed, because I've seen them on ebay:
Tokyobike mini velo BLUE JADE | eBay
TokyoBike Mini Velo - 2 Years Old, Excellent Condition, Urban Adventure Awaits! Dive into urban exploration with this 2-year-old TokyoBike Mini Velo! Why Choose This TokyoBike Mini Velo?. Join the TokyoBike Community of Urban Explorers!
www.ebay.co.uk
Alternatively: The Crusa's kit seems to work well for the OP, therefore perhaps the OP could get the hub motor kit transferred from the Crusa to a lightweight mini velo, while replacing the old rackmounted battery with a downtube?
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Can you please tell us again what are your priorities and personal situation? I am afraid as mentioned above you will have to make some compromises.
I am converting a bike for my wife right now. Big wheels, mid drive, suspension, long range, but it won't be light.
Maybe you would consider a moped?
I am converting a bike for my wife right now. Big wheels, mid drive, suspension, long range, but it won't be light.
Maybe you would consider a moped?
Cube Kathmandu 750wh, Bosch gen 4 performance CX 85nm motor. ABS braking. About £3k
Motor will kick in pretty much on a smidgen of a turn on the pedals. It's not really dependent on anything other than making the pedals go round.
Starting off on my Bosch(same motor) with the pedal at about 10 o clock, the motor will kick in by the time the pedal gets to 8 o clock(or maybee 9), it's pretty much instant.
750wh will probably give you 90 miles on eco, or 45-50 on turbo, turbo is 340% so plenty of oomf
Motor will kick in pretty much on a smidgen of a turn on the pedals. It's not really dependent on anything other than making the pedals go round.
Starting off on my Bosch(same motor) with the pedal at about 10 o clock, the motor will kick in by the time the pedal gets to 8 o clock(or maybee 9), it's pretty much instant.
750wh will probably give you 90 miles on eco, or 45-50 on turbo, turbo is 340% so plenty of oomf
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I have a feeling what OP needs is a full throttle, cadence sensor and a high torque.
The closet I can think of is https://wisperbikes.com/shop/e-bikes/folding-ebikes/wisper-806-folding-electric-bike-2020/ with full throttle.
Bicycle weight
375Wh: 21kg
575Wh: 22kg
700Wh: 22.5kg
Disadvantage is rack battery and the OP wanted larger wheels
Or full throttle low crossbar tailwind https://wisperbikes.com/shop/e-bikes/step-through-ebikes/tailwind-comfort-low-crossbar/
Weight:
360Wh: 21Kg
540Wh: 22kg
Disadvantage is low crossbar rather than completely free step through
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It uses a torque multiplying system. We already determined that that system wouldn't be suitable.
The lady rider in question has already mentioned her health issues and lack of leg stamina , we have already duduced that the torque multipliers are no good for her and the fact she currently has a similar app controlled bike confirms that.
Yes, but he said he wanted something with power, and simply quoting battery size isnt going to giver you that. You could have a 20ah battery, but if the nm of the motor is only 35nm, then getting up a steep hill isnt happening. Plus the one i quoted is 85nm which is pretty powerful,and about 21ah, with front mount battery and mid drive centralizes all the weight. Rather than putting it all over the back.
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