Derestricting Sirocco CDL
- Thread starter crE
- Start date
I'll revive this thread, as it's been very enlightening. I just upped the maximum speed using my meter. However, it maxes out at 40Km/h, not 49. 25mph is more than enough though.
I got the bike very cheaply on eBay, so I'm upgrading it. An Avid BB7 front disc brake will replace the rather weedy original one. I've had them before and they are very effective stoppers. I'm also replacing the very heavy suspension forks with rigid ones. A bit tricky to find, but there are some on eBay. The wheels are also being swapped with better ones, with a cassette rear hub instead of the freewheel one on it now.
Not only should those mods make the bike a Kg or two lighter, it will also improve it's feel and braking capacity.
I got the bike very cheaply on eBay, so I'm upgrading it. An Avid BB7 front disc brake will replace the rather weedy original one. I've had them before and they are very effective stoppers. I'm also replacing the very heavy suspension forks with rigid ones. A bit tricky to find, but there are some on eBay. The wheels are also being swapped with better ones, with a cassette rear hub instead of the freewheel one on it now.
Not only should those mods make the bike a Kg or two lighter, it will also improve it's feel and braking capacity.
Well, I've done some of the mods today. The wheels have been swapped with cassette hub ones. That'll come in useful if I upgrade the gears over standard. I have a SRAM rear mech in the spares box for just that purpose.
When I got the bike I swapped the tyres for Schwalbe Marathon Pluses. Normally a devil to fit, they went on the original rims too easily. I say too easily, as I had a blow-out when I pumped up the tyres over 55psi. With the new rims, it was more of a struggle to get the tyres on, so I've got them up to over 60psi. I'll try 70 with caution soon. The new wheels are 500g lighter than the old ones and I now have lower rolling resistance. Win/win.
Having bought some rigid forks, I now think they won't fit. The lower frame fitting is far too wide for standard forks. Something I should have foreseen. Ho hum. Due to a very tardy eBay seller, I don't have the Avid BB7 to swap front brakes. It's on its way, so a job for next weekend.
Another unforeseen issue is the rear wheel sensor. The new wheels are less dished than the originals and the gap between the spokes and the sensor is now too wide to activate the sensor. A very decent chap on another forum is sending me some very powerful mini magnets. I'll glue one of those to the current sensor and see if that does the trick.
So, a mixed bag, but I'll take the gains I've made today. The commute tomorrow will be a new experience.
When I got the bike I swapped the tyres for Schwalbe Marathon Pluses. Normally a devil to fit, they went on the original rims too easily. I say too easily, as I had a blow-out when I pumped up the tyres over 55psi. With the new rims, it was more of a struggle to get the tyres on, so I've got them up to over 60psi. I'll try 70 with caution soon. The new wheels are 500g lighter than the old ones and I now have lower rolling resistance. Win/win.
Having bought some rigid forks, I now think they won't fit. The lower frame fitting is far too wide for standard forks. Something I should have foreseen. Ho hum. Due to a very tardy eBay seller, I don't have the Avid BB7 to swap front brakes. It's on its way, so a job for next weekend.
Another unforeseen issue is the rear wheel sensor. The new wheels are less dished than the originals and the gap between the spokes and the sensor is now too wide to activate the sensor. A very decent chap on another forum is sending me some very powerful mini magnets. I'll glue one of those to the current sensor and see if that does the trick.
So, a mixed bag, but I'll take the gains I've made today. The commute tomorrow will be a new experience.
If you're saying the speedometer isn't working, you may find the bike switches off after a while, 5 or 10 minutes. The bike will assume it's not moving and close down.
The reason I thought about was because it happened to me when I broke the cable for the speedo sensor. You know it's going to cut out when you're half way up a hill. I quickly learned to switch it off and back on again just before I started climbing hills, also when I was stopped at traffic lights.
Right, that's the commute out of the way for today. The speedo wasn't working, so I don't know speeds exactly, but I got home in 30 mins instead of 32. So, an average speed of ~16mph. The bike handled a lot better and I can roll down gentle hills now instead of needing to pedal. I'll put another 5psi in the tyres tomorrow morning.
The switching off issue didn't arise. The CDL has a pedal sensor too, and that kept it going continuously.
The Avid BB7 is needed. The OEM brake isn't up to the task (and wasn't in the first place, IMHO).
The switching off issue didn't arise. The CDL has a pedal sensor too, and that kept it going continuously.
The Avid BB7 is needed. The OEM brake isn't up to the task (and wasn't in the first place, IMHO).
OK, the BB7 has been fitted, not without hassle, and adjusted. It's already better than the original brake and will improve as the pads bed in. I changed the rotor to a 180mm one to aid cooling. The original 160mm one was slightly warped.
The speedo is now working. The sensor is much less tolerant of positioning than any other I've used, but a combination of a very powerful magnet stuck to the original sensor head and trial and error has fixed things.
When I was changing the wheel, I had to change the rear cluster and the chain too. I counted the number of links on the old chain and stuck two chains together to get the same 126 links. Since doing so, I've been having some horrible chain slip moments right at the worst times in gear 1. Very dangerous to the point I was going to give up. However, whilst I was working on the bike today, I removed a couple of links. No good; still the same problem. Removed two more. Still the same, so I went to town and took four more out. That seems to have fixed things, but I'm scratching my head as to why the original chain was so/too long.
Monday will see how things go on the commute. My 2.5-mile test run saw me doing 22 mph on a stretch where I'd cut out at 18.5 mph before.
The original lights have been ditched in favour of a Hope Vision One Mk2 front light and a Cateye rear LED one. Part of my route is on unlit cyclepaths, so the former will definitely be needed.
The speedo is now working. The sensor is much less tolerant of positioning than any other I've used, but a combination of a very powerful magnet stuck to the original sensor head and trial and error has fixed things.
When I was changing the wheel, I had to change the rear cluster and the chain too. I counted the number of links on the old chain and stuck two chains together to get the same 126 links. Since doing so, I've been having some horrible chain slip moments right at the worst times in gear 1. Very dangerous to the point I was going to give up. However, whilst I was working on the bike today, I removed a couple of links. No good; still the same problem. Removed two more. Still the same, so I went to town and took four more out. That seems to have fixed things, but I'm scratching my head as to why the original chain was so/too long.
Monday will see how things go on the commute. My 2.5-mile test run saw me doing 22 mph on a stretch where I'd cut out at 18.5 mph before.
The original lights have been ditched in favour of a Hope Vision One Mk2 front light and a Cateye rear LED one. Part of my route is on unlit cyclepaths, so the former will definitely be needed.
Well, I'm amazed that Woosh fitted a chain of 126 links onto the bike in the first place*. It clearly doesn't need so many links. I don't think I have enough links now to play with, as it's down to 118 from 126.
The chain sits fine on the chainwheel and the cassette, but is clearly too long.
*I assume it was OEM, as the bike had only done 200 miles when I bought it.
The chain sits fine on the chainwheel and the cassette, but is clearly too long.
*I assume it was OEM, as the bike had only done 200 miles when I bought it.
you can adjust the chain tension here:
http://www.wooshbikes.co.uk/getpost.php?postname=how-to-adjust-your-sis-gear-shift
http://www.wooshbikes.co.uk/getpost.php?postname=how-to-adjust-your-sis-gear-shift
The mounting screw to the derailleur hanger. These derailleurs are incredibly easy to set up even I managed! The secret is in the cable tension.I have the chain jumping off the front sprocket on bumps because the front derailleur isn't mounted. 4 times on Thursday, I have a pair of workshop gloves in my bag at all times
Right, a major update. On Sunday I removed some more links. The chain was really tight and I thought it would fix the chain slip which was still dangerously present.
Anyway, on the ride home last night, in the rain, the rear derailleur failed catastrophically. I had a lovely 4-mile walk home with the bike. The chain was obviously too tight and it hadn't cured the chain slip anyway. When I have time, I need to assess the damage and see what to do next. Riding the bike with the chain slip was very hazardous at crucial moments.
Anyway, on the ride home last night, in the rain, the rear derailleur failed catastrophically. I had a lovely 4-mile walk home with the bike. The chain was obviously too tight and it hadn't cured the chain slip anyway. When I have time, I need to assess the damage and see what to do next. Riding the bike with the chain slip was very hazardous at crucial moments.
removing and adding links wont cure or even cause the chainslip.... so not sure why you thought that might help things.
chainslip can be caused by worn teeth on chainring, worn teeth on freewheel and stretched chain. A damaged cog on the freewheel is probably the most frequent cause because the same cog may be used all the time in comparison to the other cogs. Your 14T cog will wear more than 10 times faster than the 46T chainring if you use only gear 7.
You need to eliminate one possible cause at a time. Check chain for stretching firrst, then check the teeth of the chainring.
You need to eliminate one possible cause at a time. Check chain for stretching firrst, then check the teeth of the chainring.