Help! Decade old Diamond (Batribike)

[Joel]

Hi, we want an old bike to deter thieves. We have found a Diamond LS that the owner claims still does over 30miles as they rode it rarely and looked after the battery. My assumption is the battery may need replacing not too far into the future and Batribike were very helpful but don't do replacements (original supplier no longer exists). I have a technical query that may interest some of you (or be completely daft).

When the battery dies is the better option to get the cells replaced or to buy an off the shelf (downtube) battery plus pedal sensor, controller & display? Although we've had electric bikes for two decades I'm still a relative novice so I might be wrong to assume the motor is not fussy as long as it has a 36V battery connected up? We've never used the cut out brakes on our electric conversion kits (don't brake when you are peddling is a pretty simple concept ) and don't need the throttle, ie, we just need an on/off button and the battery level. Would the motor automatically just be on full power if there is no option to select low/med/high?

Manual is here https://batribikeb2b.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/130819-Batribike-LS-Models-Manual-ISSUE-2-reduced.pdf

Thanks
Joel

 

[thelarkbox]

I think your looking for problems..
If the linked to manual pictures correctly indicate the current controller is housed in the current battery base in the rack? you need only source a similar rack style replacement battery. This will arrive with its own empty base which you should have little difficulty transferring the control system into.. you may need to drill or plug the odd hole to weatherproof cable access?

Its possible to run a throttle controlled bike headless without a display by bridging the red/blue wires in the display connector, or switching them for on/off. but most bike systems start in pas level 0 and require input via the disconnected display to step up and back down.

Some e bike controller/motor combos can over run a bit more than others when power is cut or pedalling stops, and brake cut offs provide an easy to fit emergency cut off, always worth fitting even if rarely or never relied on imho..

Hope i understood correctly and was helpful.

EDIT Rack style batteries are more expensive as the rack is often part of the bundle to ensure everything fits ok. And fitting a downtube battery and simply connecting it to your existing electronics is also a viable option taking great care to use suitable wires.

 

[Joel]

Great response @thelarkbox , yes probably making it too hard for myself. It is even easier than you describe as the controller is separate box on the downtube (Pg5). At worst it would be case of buying a new rack/battery combo and connecting up to the controller. I'll be back on to make sure I get the wiring right when the current battery fails.

I don't understand the 2nd para but that doesn't matter as you solved the issue with the 1st para. 3rd para is useful info and makes sense.

Cheers

 

[thelarkbox]

Cheers, Talk of deterring thieves , only needing a switch on/off, and not connecting handlebar controls (throttle brake cut offs) made me think you wanted a display free (headless) handlebar, as a stealth precaution? wasnt sure tho?

 

[saneagle]

You can use any 36v battery you want. It's just two wires to the controller. It would be worth updating the controller too at the same time to a KT one, which will transform the bike into a really nice one - like getting a new bike.

 

[Nealh]

Early batribike used generic comms /battery wiring , later newer models I believe gained some kind of comm's maybe even CANbus type.

 

[Joel]

@thelarkbox thanks I understand what you mean now, we are agnostic about a display.

@saneagle I'll get back to you on that if the battery dies before the bike gets nicked again.

 

[Joel]

Thanks @Nealh