Cyclotricity Stealth

[Deleted member 4366]

Found it!

https://greenpedel.en.alibaba.com/product/60721014217-805031946/Greenpedel_1000w_electric_bicycle_hub_motor_48v_ebike_motor.html

Yes that has the right castings, but it doesn't meant that it's the right supplier. In China, somebody will design a motor, then arrange for castings, machined parts, laminations and winding cores to start making it. All the sub-suppliers are happy to sell those parts to any other customer, so you end up with several factories making more or less the same thing. if you have any markings on the motor, they often give a clue to the manufacturer. The first two letters are the code for the factory, like BF is Bafang, XD is Xiongda, XF is MXUS, but can also be Xofo, AKM is Aikema, SY is Shengyi, etc.

 

[Ross_Dr]

I had no idea they had a stealth page on Facebook I will have to have a gander, may be useful to have a page I can go to with any questions and stuff like that! As for the motors, those do look to be the ones.

 

[PH001]

Interesting upgrades you have done. Can I ask what the difference is between KT-LCD3 and KT-LCD5 and where you can source them from? Also, are they a direct easy swap from the original KT-LCD1?

 

[Wheel-E]

Interesting upgrades you have done. Can I ask what the difference is between KT-LCD3 and KT-LCD5 and where you can source them from? Also, are they a direct easy swap from the original KT-LCD1?

The LCD-5 is a direct swap as long as you find one with the same connector. If you're using a Cyclotricity kit then you'll need Julet/Higo connectors. I bought my LCD-5 from BMS Battery for about £16 with the wrong connector but soldered the old cable into the new LCD. As @d8veh has said elsewhere you could easily cut and solder them together with heat shrink but I wanted my pride and joy to be perfect!

When I first got the bike I was keen to get the rather cool looking, impressively big LCD-3 with separate buttons right next to my thumbs, showing real-time current (watts) and temperature. But in the end I decided to get the more discreet LCD-5 that would be less likely to attract attention and still showed real time voltage.

Both LCD3 and LCD5 will give access to the extra settings that you don't get on the original Cyclotricity display. Non-Cyclotricity LCD1s will probably have more settings available too. I'm guessing they lock it down with proprietary options including the 250/500 or 1000W modes.

 

[Wheel-E]

Check out Kunteng's website with their range of displays: http://www.szktdz.com/en/news.php?type=343

Their downloads page contains the manuals for all of their displays, allowing you to compare the available functions. http://www.szktdz.com/en/news.php?type=348

 

[PH001]

Great link - thanks.

So, just so I understand this correctly.. I could get the LCD5 from BMS battery for £13 + £25 shipping = £38 (link), but I would need to change the connector over to a HIGO-B5 (link) so £4.75 + £12.50 shipping. So total would be around £55 + duties. Or I guess you could do without the connector and splice it directly.

There is an alternative from AliExpress which already has the correct connector on for £24.50 all in (link), but you might be in for a longer wait for it to arrive I guess.

Looking through the data for both controllers:
LCD1
LCD5

....I'm not clear how easy it would be to enter all the correct parameters for the LCD5 to make it work properly. For example - how is the 250W / 1000W power setting selected with the LCD5? It looks like it just sets a maximum current?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

....I'm not clear how easy it would be to enter all the correct parameters for the LCD5 to make it work properly. For example - how is the 250W / 1000W power setting selected with the LCD5? It looks like it just sets a maximum current?

Different KT controllers have different software in them. When there's a custom function, like the 250w switch or the gear-changing on the 2 spd Xiongda motor, you need the special LCD to access it.

 

[Wheel-E]

....I'm not clear how easy it would be to enter all the correct parameters for the LCD5 to make it work properly. For example - how is the 250W / 1000W power setting selected with the LCD5? It looks like it just sets a maximum current?

Cyclotricity LCDs have one setting that changes between 250w and maximum power. The upper speed limit is set separately.
With a non-Cyclotricity LCD you can reduce the current by up to 50% and can still set the maximum speed just as before.

In terms of legality, with a 1000w kit set to 50% current it would be running at 500W. I'm using a 500w kit so the 50% reduction works for me if I need it.

 

[PH001]

Right, so no way to set a 250w mode for a 1000w bike. Hmmm.

 

[Nealh]

In terms of legality, with a 1000w kit set to 50% current it would be running at 500W. I'm using a 500w kit so the 50% reduction works for me if I need it.

Not trying to be pedantic.
In terms of legality it is still not legal, no matter what is done to the kit, a 500w hub is rated 500w no matter how much or which way you try to spin the theory.

 

[Wheel-E]

Not trying to be pedantic.
In terms of legality it is still not legal, no matter what is done to the kit, a 500w hub is rated 500w no matter how much or which way you try to spin the theory.

Your pedantry is welcomed. I didn't want to go down that road again of debating legality of Cyclotricity products.

 

[PH001]

Yeh, been done to death a thousand times!

 

[Deleted member 4366]

My take on it is that as long as you have the speed set to 25 km/h max, you'll most likely be OK, regardless of power, but if anybody asks about the power, always tell them that it's 250w.