I have a Cyclotricity Revolver which I just purchased and it has ( as I expected) forks which are not very good and deliver a bang when going over bumps. Would it be possible to change these to something a bit better and not too expensive ? I think it would make quite a difference. Normal non suspension forks would be even better as they would drop the handlebar height down a good bit but perhaps thats a step too far
Cycloltricity Revolver and its front suspension forks
- Thread starter Andrew Brown
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D
Deleted member 4366
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There's different versions of the Revolve with different forks. Show us which one you have. Make sure it's exactly right.
Thank you
This is the bike. Its the latest version
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mf7yyl3WnUHdgez5qOFNcxLOtJTE3OYJ/view?usp=sharing
This is the bike. Its the latest version
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mf7yyl3WnUHdgez5qOFNcxLOtJTE3OYJ/view?usp=sharing
If you're happy with rigid forks then you'll reduce the bike's weight and lose that clunking. If you do go for rigid forks then check the crown to axle height to compare with what you already have. That will help you decide how far the bike will angle forward with new forks.
The revolver has the motor in the front wheel doesn't it? So you'll need a fork that can fit the axle width you're using.
I had a Cyclotricity Stealth with Suntour suspension forks. I found they didn't do much for our potholed roads so was happy to change them for rigid ones.
I'm afraid I don't have any recomendations for better suspension forks but secondhand is usually a good shout.
The revolver has the motor in the front wheel doesn't it? So you'll need a fork that can fit the axle width you're using.
I had a Cyclotricity Stealth with Suntour suspension forks. I found they didn't do much for our potholed roads so was happy to change them for rigid ones.
I'm afraid I don't have any recomendations for better suspension forks but secondhand is usually a good shout.
D
Deleted member 4366
Guest
You can change the forks to any 1 1/8 ones. yours has a threaded steerer tube, so if you get another threaded set, the change-over is straight forward. You have the option of fitting unthreaded ones if you change the stem too, for which you need a star nut , a stem cap and some spacers. I'm not sure if you'd need a new head-set too. i think probably not, but if you don't change them, water might get in, so use plenty of grease on the ball-races.
Whether you use threaded or unthreaded, you need to get forks with the appropriate length steerer tube. You can make up some differences with spacers, and you can cut down the length of unthreaded ones.
Whether you use threaded or unthreaded, you need to get forks with the appropriate length steerer tube. You can make up some differences with spacers, and you can cut down the length of unthreaded ones.