All three 1800LM headlights are installed on my bike. The rear 1800LM is fearsomely bright, even with two layers of heat-resistant red acetate behind the glass. And of course, I now have twice the brightness on the handlebars: 3200LM. Still waiting for the dual switch - wires are in the right place for when it arrives next week, and for whenever I next have time to splice that second (dual) switch in... The second switch will enable different mode per light. For now all three are either bright, dimmer or flashing scarily, with modes changed via a single handlebar switch. I'll take some photos when I'm next out in the dark...
Both of the front lights flash in sync. When the other switches arrive, that'll be optional - out of sync flashing may make for easier viewing while riding. Rapid variance of brightness might make video capture of number plates at night clearer, as numberplates weree overblown at the lowest exposure settings of my action camera, when using one bright steady light.
Here's a brightness comparison of the now red 1800LM with my Bafang 6v 5w rear light, which switches on automatically when the DPC-18 display detects low light conditions. It's on, but doesn't look it, and this photo has an exposure time of 1/54,191th second. ISO is 320.
The red light is confusing the Luxmeter app on my phone, the only reading I can get is 32,767 max lux, regardless how far away I hold the phone camera. Too fast for human eyes, LED lights do flash very rapidly. Probably a measure of the peaks of bursts. Might explain why the flashing mode is so disconcerting to view.
A bright sunny day measures a steady 8,000 - 10,000 Lux.
I've bulked up the end of the rear rack, using some old hi-viz cut hosepipe, so that the light can be angled down for a smaller folded size, and for those rare occasions when I'm feeling generous towards drivers.
The clamps are pretty sturdy, but if anyone does buy these lights, bear in mind that the threads are not clean - pooled paint inside the holes, I think. I found it best to clear the way by first driving the hex bolts through the opposite side of the holes, otherwise you risk fouling the threads. But if you do ruin a clamp thread fear not, because there is room for slightly filed down locknuts on top (bolt to the right), to hold the clamp firm.
I've pointed a 5W 6V light backwards, to illuminate my hi-viz blouson at night - that lit one is connected to the output for low power lights on the controller, for now. And that's my 120db Hornitt in the middle.
Cheap - and it'll be circa £77 well spent, if these lights prevent my being squashed by a driver.
| 3X 1800LM headlights | 45 |
| 5m 11A 0.5mm 2 core automotive wire | 5 |
| Red heat resistant acetate sheet | 2 |
| 2 X waterproof handlebar switches: 1 single, 1 dual | 25 |
| 77 |
Plus a bit of solder and blade fuse I already had.
If you don't have a suitable ebike battery, a separate small bottle battery could be used. There's a 0.2V drop in voltage when all three lights are on full constant, 0.1v when all are dimmed, and switching between both voltage reductions when three are flashing.
Hope these keep the
fuckers away...
