Cyclematic powerplus power problem

[Nealh]

Most likely issue is that one of the phase mosfets has fried, rather then use one of those stupid light gadgets it will be much easier to understand with proper resistance values by using a Digital volt meter.
Simply disconnect the controller (no power) , attach the probes to Red battery input wire and each of the phases in turn using the 20k or 200k positions on the dial. Write down and show us the results, also do the same for the Black battery in put wire.
One should get two sets of results (each set may be different) , but if any result in each pair of results is massively different then a mosfet has fried.
Going by the light thingy the green mosfet should show up a different result.

 

[vfr400]

If you go back to my post #4, everything still stands. Your tester has done test no.2 and shows that the halls are OK. You threw me when you said you had no throttle lights or 5v. It looks like you have a replacemnt throttle.

Back to my original theory, I'm pretty sure you're going to find shorted mosfets, but you must test to find out, then we can discuss a new controller.

When you have shorted mosfets, it shorts the battery as soon as you switch on. The battery's BMS switches off the battery to protect it from meltdown. That's probably why your charge indicator lights go off. If it's not the mosfets, you have a shrt somewhere else.

 

[gazza19]

Most likely issue is that one of the phase mosfets has fried, rather then use one of those stupid light gadgets it will be much easier to understand with proper resistance values by using a Digital volt meter.
Simply disconnect the controller (no power) , attach the probes to Red battery input wire and each of the phases in turn using the 20k or 200k position son the dial. Write down and show us the results, also do the same for the Black battery in put wire.
On should get two sets of results (each set may be different) , but if any result in each pair of results is massively different then a mosfet has fried.
Going by the light thingy the green mosfet should show up a different result.

ive done it with the red input wire of the controller to the green it was 9.4 the yellow was 9.1 and the blue was 0.1 then did it with the black input wire to the controller and got the same results

 

[vfr400]

That would indicate that you've blown both the high and low blue phase mosfets so that the red battery wire is connected to the black one as a dead short. You can confirm that if your meter has the beep function for testing continuity. If it beeps when you put your probed on the two battery wires, it's confirmed.

When confirmed, you'll be looking for a new controller. A direct replacement is very cheap, but nit very good. For about £40, you can get one with an LCD and 5 levels of assist, and for about £70 you can get a KT one, which will make your bike feel like a completely new one. Whichever option you choose, you will have to do a small amount of re-wiring and a bit of soldering.

One thing to consider is that the battery will wear out. the Cyclamatic is a lot better at 36v, so if you get a 24v/36v dual voltage one, when your battery expires, you can go up to 36v at the same cost as a new 24v battery.

In case I forget to mention it in the future, the Cyclamatic pedal sensor works backwards to most, so you have to take the crank off and flip the magnet disc to make it work when you pedal forwards.

 

[gazza19]

That would indicate that you've blown both the high and low blue phase mosfets so that the red battery wire is connected to the black one as a dead short. You can confirm that if your meter has the beep function for testing continuity. If it beeps when you put your probed on the two battery wires, it's confirmed.

When confirmed, you'll be looking for a new controller. A direct replacement is very cheap, but nit very good. For about £40, you can get one with an LCD and 5 levels of assist, and for about £70 you can get a KT one, which will make your bike feel like a completely new one. Whichever option you choose, you will have to do a small amount of re-wiring and a bit of soldering.

One thing to consider is that the battery will wear out. the Cyclamatic is a lot better at 36v, so if you get a 24v/36v dual voltage one, when your battery expires, you can go up to 36v at the same cost as a new 24v battery.

In case I forget to mention it in the future, the Cyclamatic pedal sensor works backwards to most, so you have to take the crank off and flip the magnet disc to make it work when you pedal forwards.

what sort of rewiring and and soldering and could you send me some links on the controllers please

 

[vfr400]

Does your motor have the 9 pin connector under the chainstay or does the cable run all the way to the controller? There are two versions.

 

[gazza19]

Does your motor have the 9 pin connector under the chainstay or does the cable run all the way to the controller? There are two versions.

yes my bike does have the connector by the chainstay i have seen a new cable like that on ebay for 20 but its second hand

 

[vfr400]

yes my bike does have the connector by the chainstay i have seen a new cable like that on ebay for 20 but its second hand

This is the controller I'd recommend:

24V/36V 250W 6Mosfets 15A Brushless DC Sine Wave Controller - PSWPOWER.com

www.pswpower.com

You can also get it from Topbikekit.

You need the LCD3 to go with it plus a wheel speed sensor. You can use your existing throttle, brakes and pedal sensor, but you'll have to cut the connectors off and solder the wires or you can cut the connectors off both controllers and swap them over. The work is the same.

You'll also need one of these motor cables. I think you might be able to get one from one of the suppliers above, otherwise here:

60,130,160CM 9-Pin E-BIKE Waterproof Motor Cable Extension Cable Connector Tool | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 60,130,160CM 9-Pin E-BIKE Waterproof Motor Cable Extension Cable Connector Tool at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

The only wiring you need to do apart from the work on the connectors is to run the LCD's cable down to the controller. You might need to open up the hole to get the connector through, or cut it off and rejoin the wires. cutting them gives the option to make the cable the right length.

 

[gazza19]

This is the controller I'd recommend:

24V/36V 250W 6Mosfets 15A Brushless DC Sine Wave Controller - PSWPOWER.com

www.pswpower.com

You can also get it from Topbikekit.

You need the LCD3 to go with it plus a wheel speed sensor. You can use your existing throttle, brakes and pedal sensor, but you'll have to cut the connectors off and solder the wires or you can cut the connectors off both controllers and swap them over. The work is the same.

You'll also need one of these motor cables. I think you might be able to get one from one of the suppliers above, otherwise here:

60,130,160CM 9-Pin E-BIKE Waterproof Motor Cable Extension Cable Connector Tool | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 60,130,160CM 9-Pin E-BIKE Waterproof Motor Cable Extension Cable Connector Tool at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

The only wiring you need to do apart from the work on the connectors is to run the LCD's cable down to the controller. You might need to open up the hole to get the connector through, or cut it off and rejoin the wires. cutting them gives the option to make the cable the right length.

could you send me links for all the parts needed so i could price it up please all your help is much appreciated

 

[vfr400]

could you send me links for all the parts needed so i could price it up please all your help is much appreciated

They're all in the dropdowns in that listing, apart from the motor cable.

 

[gazza19]

They're all in the dropdowns in that listing, apart from the motor cable.

If I bought al the parts in the link you sent me would they just plug together without any rewiring or soldering

 

[gazza19]

If I bought al the parts in the link you sent me would they just plug together without any rewiring or soldering

And if so which pedal sensor would be best the dual hall sensor or the ten pin one thanks in advance for your help

 

[Nealh]

The ten pole PAS is the best option.
All items selected from the drop down boxes will be a match so plug and play.
The drop down boxes are there to make it almost fool proof.

 

[gazza19]

The ten pole PAS is the best option.
All items selected from the drop down boxes will be a match so plug and play.
The drop down boxes are there to make it almost fool proof.

Thanks for your help il order them just hope it will be worth it

 

[gazza19]

This is the controller I'd recommend:

24V/36V 250W 6Mosfets 15A Brushless DC Sine Wave Controller - PSWPOWER.com

www.pswpower.com

You can also get it from Topbikekit.

You need the LCD3 to go with it plus a wheel speed sensor. You can use your existing throttle, brakes and pedal sensor, but you'll have to cut the connectors off and solder the wires or you can cut the connectors off both controllers and swap them over. The work is the same.

You'll also need one of these motor cables. I think you might be able to get one from one of the suppliers above, otherwise here:

60,130,160CM 9-Pin E-BIKE Waterproof Motor Cable Extension Cable Connector Tool | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 60,130,160CM 9-Pin E-BIKE Waterproof Motor Cable Extension Cable Connector Tool at the best online prices at eBay! Free delivery for many products!

www.ebay.co.uk

The only wiring you need to do apart from the work on the connectors is to run the LCD's cable down to the controller. You might need to open up the hole to get the connector through, or cut it off and rejoin the wires. cutting them gives the option to make the cable the right length.

vfr400 what size motor cable would you recommend getting

 

[vfr400]

No idea. You have to get the tape measure out.

 

[gazza19]

No idea. You have to get the tape measure out.

il take the cable of and measue it lol ordered all the other parts might as well change the whole lot over

 

[gazza19]

No idea. You have to get the tape measure out.

This is the motor cable not sure if it disconnects or is a full cable to the motor if so can you tell me what to do and how i would be able to replace it to the motor thanks for any help

 

[gazza19]

This is the motor cable not sure if it disconnects or is a full cable to the motor if so can you tell me what to do and how i would be able to replace it to the motor thanks for any help

 

[vfr400]

Just as well you showed it. The connector is non-standard. I'd keep the cable, cut off the burnt connectors and the connectors on the controller, then solder the wires together and insulate with heatshrink - two layers on the phase wires.