Cyclamatic: The Beastamatic is dead! Long live the Beastamatic

[evendine]

Rat with original graffiti paint job

How about attaching an upgraded controller to the base of the current controller compartment with some heat-sink compound? Airflow / connection to the frame would help lose the heat and it would be a good location wiring-wise too; more space - easier access generally...

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Ersatzzahnräder für Bafang 250W Motoren - ebike-solutions.de
Just found this: The 36 tooth one looks the same. You could ask them to check the O/D and I/D sizes, but I'll lay money on that being the one you need.

 

[Fordulike]

Ersatzzahnräder für Bafang 250W Motoren - ebike-solutions.de
Just found this: The 36 tooth one looks the same. You could ask them to check the O/D and I/D sizes, but I'll lay money on that being the one you need.

Nice find m8.
Have had the hub apart a few times in the last week, and it's a pain in the arse
Don't suppose you fancy doing the donkey work to find out the gear specs, do you?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Nice find m8.
Have had the hub apart a few times in the last week, and it's a pain in the arse
Don't suppose you fancy doing the donkey work to find out the gear specs, do you?

I notice that its got SWX written on the bearing. I think I've got a SWXU motor, so I'll open it up and see if its 36T. If it is, I'll measure it. Is your faulty one outside the motor? If so, could you get approx measurements to compare?

 

[Fordulike]

I notice that its got SWX written on the bearing. I think I've got a SWXU motor, so I'll open it up and see if its 36T. If it is, I'll measure it. Is your faulty one outside the motor? If so, could you get approx measurements to compare?

I destroyed the broken one, attempting to remove it from the spindle.
Counted the teeth on the piccy of the gear I posted, and it's 36T.
I'll be a monkey's uncle if that one on the German sight aint the same.
Hub's running fine at mo, but have bookmarked that site for future reference.
Shame the steel one isn't in a 36T
Nice bonus is that the shipping cost is about £16, no matter how much you order from them.

 

[Deleted member 4366]

I took apart my SWXU motor today and measured the gears:
36T
38mm O/D tip of tooth to tip of tooth
12mm Thick
8mm pin diameter

It's a real shame you haven't still got the damaged one to compare, but it looks pretty good to me.
Anybody got a dismantled Cyclamatic motor who can measure the gears?

 

[evendine]

Anyone know of a reasonably priced 10s Lipo charger?

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Anyone know of a reasonably priced 10s Lipo charger?

Imax B6 LiPo Battery Balancer Charger AC Adapter 12V 5A | eBay

Comes with 5A power supply. You have to charge 5S at a time.

 

[evendine]

Thanks d8veh - looks to be a good price with PSU included...

Found some well priced Zippy 10s 4500mAh Lipo packs, but the chargers seem to be more expensive than the batteries!

I'm still trying to find a way to upgrade to 36v, while keeping the charging cycle simple (ideally the way it is now), although clearly with balanced charging the connector will pose a problem...

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Now it gets a bit tricky because you need a bit of imagination to figure out what to do about the batteries. You have to decide between lipos or safer, heavier, more expensive lithium batteries. Lipos can give any current, but you need charger, balance leads, "Y" connections, etc, while as the others are limited on current, so if you want climbing power, without lipos you'll need 15aH, which is quite big. You can get a ready-to-fit 10aH for about £220, or a rack-fitting battery of 10 or 15aH from BMSbattery. You also need to think about whether to use a larger controller that won't fit in the normal compartment and where to put it. You can make your own larger battery case to fit behind the seat tube to contain the new controller and a set of 10aH lipos. I'm going to make a case out of aluminium sheet (ideal 1mm) and small aluminium "L" section that you can get from Wickes - pop-riveted together. So many possibilities, but there always seem to be disadvantages as well as advantages.

 

[evendine]

Lipo's seem to be the way forward on price/weight/power, but are a bit complex to use, potentially dangerous for the average user and can be difficult to charge...

I think I've found a low cost solution to some of these issues via Endless Sphere forum:

Endless-sphere.com • View topic - Custom Lipo Series Parallel Harnesses & More!

Custom charge / discharge harnesses make it possible to balance charge multiple packs via a single connector interface using low-cost chargers and provide a plug-n-play setup (which is what I've been looking for).

Here's IceCube57's website, where you can order custom harnesses for multi-lipo packs for around $20:

Lipo Connect Solutions

Looks like these guys have produced an (open-source) BMS for Lipo's which solves the balanced charging connector issue, allowing a simple charging approach:

Endless-sphere.com • View topic - "Zephyr" - Finally, the "v4" Fechter/Goodrum/Hecker BMS...

Re: finding a good location for uprated controller - I measured the space under the controller compartment and the one you mentioned (KU60 350W Universal 6Mosfets Controller - BMSBATTERY) would fit snugly on the underside without lowering ground-clearance (main sprocket is lower)...

 

[Deleted member 4366]

Looks like these guys have produced an (open-source) BMS for Lipo's which solves the balanced charging connector issue, allowing a simple charging approach:

Endless-sphere.com • View topic - "Zephyr" - Finally, the "v4" Fechter/Goodrum/Hecker BMS...

Re: finding a good location for uprated controller - I measured the space under the controller compartment and the one you mentioned (KU60 350W Universal 6Mosfets Controller - BMSBATTERY) would fit snugly on the underside without lowering ground-clearance (main sprocket is lower)...

There's also a lipo BMS from BMSbattery. I've got one, but I haven't tried it yet because I now use my Ping battery most of the time.

A KU60/63 won't fit in the compartment. I've tried. You can get the controller in but not the connectors. You can run the wires and connectors out from between the side plate and frame, and then connect externally, but it looks a mess.

 

[evendine]

A KU60/63 won't fit in the compartment. I've tried. You can get the controller in but not the connectors. You can run the wires and connectors out from between the side plate and frame, and then connect externally, but it looks a mess.

Yep - was thinking of +under+ the controller compartment - the plate is just the right size and right next to the cable grommet hole. Was thinking of adding another hole at the back of the plate and making the connections inside the controller compartment...

 

[Deleted member 4366]

That could work with just the connectors in the compartment. You might have to open up the hole a bit to ge all the extra wires through or drill another hole.

 

[shemozzle999]

My apologies for the ambiguous title.

Was all geared up for replacing the Cyclamatic's broken hub spur gear, with either another nylon one or a stronger steel one.

That was until I attempted to remove the defective one.

It's held on with a circlip, and I thought that once I removed that, the gear would slip off.

Wrong

No amount of coaxing and tugging and prising worked to get the gear off its spindle.

Plus, the gear's bearing appears to be make of soft cheese, and easily dented and buckled.

So in the end I thought f*** it, and cut into the nylon part of the gear with a hacksaw, with the intention of just pulling that part off the bearing.

Then after tugging at the split nylon cog to separate it from the bearing, the whole b****y thing popped off anyway

So, does the hub work with only 2 spur gears in the assembly?

In a nutshell.... yes.

Who knows for how long, but that's what experimentation's for.

View attachment 3069 View attachment 3070

Sorry d8veh, the steel gears have been put on hold for now.

While you have got it apart, if the gears are symetrical I would remove them and rotate them 180 degrees so that that they will drive the ring gear using the other un-worn side of the teeth.

 

[Fordulike]

While you have got it apart, if the gears are symetrical I would remove them and rotate them 180 degrees so that that they will drive the ring gear using the other un-worn side of the teeth.

The teeth on the remaining cogs are all fine and show no signs of wear to the visible eye.
The one I had problems with, actually had some of the teeth completely broken off.

Originally, when I opened the casing to inspect the cogs, that particular one only had around 5 teeth missing.
Then after another inspection a week or so later, at least 10 were gone.
Goes to show the quick disintegration of the internals, once a cog becomes defective

 

[flecc]

Exactly the same as with hub gears, the slightest chip of loose metal starts a rapid disintegration.

 

[shemozzle999]

The teeth on the remaining cogs are all fine and show no signs of wear to the visible eye.
The one I had problems with, actually had some of the teeth completely broken off.

Originally, when I opened the casing to inspect the cogs, that particular one only had around 5 teeth missing.
Then after another inspection a week or so later, at least 10 were gone.
Goes to show the quick disintegration of the internals, once a cog becomes defective

If you decide to buy a replacement gear PM me, I could add to the order and split the 19 euro p+p charges.

 

[Fordulike]

If you decide to buy a replacement gear PM me, I could add to the order and split the 19 euro p+p charges.

No problem.
She's running great at the moment, but I'm gonna open her up again in a few weeks time for another inspection.
Then I can make a command decision on whether to replace the missing cog or not

 

[shemozzle999]

Sorry Fordulike, will have to cancel my joint order offer.
I have just opened my motor up - its not a Bafang as I have always thought - just checked the markings its a YPW01 and from a forum search it appears its an ill-fated 100mm wide, side disc magnet motor.
On checking the gears they are totally different 41T, 54mm O/D.
Good thing is they look OK.
I will just service it ie: re-grease, may replace bearings (6001RS), and change the motor cable over to a newly acquired plug/socket version which was my primary reason for stripping it down.