cyclamatic problems

[Borwick]

Hi,
The yellow tape was my doing. I needed to take the back wheel off and when reinstating, I thought it best to give some waterproofing.

I have looked in the controller compartment as you suggested. There was some fine grit in there which looks as though there had been some muddy water at some point.

I have attached a photo and some damage and disconnection of wires was evident -

Disconnected wires -

Green and black F from blue and red M

A white wire M and F

Red wire M not connected and not obviously disconnected from anything - a spare. That corresponds with the wiring diagram I found online.

Green wire and blue wire melted near connection.

So there has been some heating, perhaps from a short or the consequence of the disconnection of other wires.

Many thanks.

 

[thelarkbox]

Clean off and recrimp making Very good connections replacement connectors, connect and refit ensuring they are very well isolated from each other.

Repeated arcing and weakening of the connections and resulting over heating could explain the degradation of performance?

 

[Nealh]

The three melted bullet connectors are a common sight and are the phase wires , they simply can't handle strong current. They either need to be soldered directly or one should use a MT60 tri connector.
The white wire disconnected is a speed restriction wire .
Green/Black are brake sensors , it's mate is the other Green/Black partly obscured at the very top of the housing in the pic.

Until one has sorted out the three phase wires then the bike is going no where, whilst at it perform a mosfet test on the controller to chack the mosfet s are ok. If they aren't then the controller is toast.
The phase wires need cutting back 1 or 2 cm to get rid of the burnt wires .

The Blue/Red could be for a five wire twist n go speed device where only the Red might be used to power the leds.

 

[matthewslack]

What an arrangement! Tidy on the outside, mayhem within.

 

[saneagle]

Hi,
The yellow tape was my doing. I needed to take the back wheel off and when reinstating, I thought it best to give some waterproofing.

I have looked in the controller compartment as you suggested. There was some fine grit in there which looks as though there had been some muddy water at some point.

I have attached a photo and some damage and disconnection of wires was evident -

Disconnected wires -

Green and black F from blue and red M

A white wire M and F

Red wire M not connected and not obviously disconnected from anything - a spare. That corresponds with the wiring diagram I found online.

Green wire and blue wire melted near connection.

So there has been some heating, perhaps from a short or the consequence of the disconnection of other wires.

Many thanks.

Don't be surprised if the MOSFETs in the controller are blown. Controllers don't cost much, and it can give you a chance to make your bike better than it was before because the Cyclamatic Power Plus control system is terrible. It would even give you the chance to go up to 36v, which would give you about 80% more maximum power from a 15 amp controller.

 

[Borwick]

Don't be surprised if the MOSFETs in the controller are blown. Controllers don't cost much, and it can give you a chance to make your bike better than it was before because the Cyclamatic Power Plus control system is terrible. It would even give you the chance to go up to 36v, which would give you about 80% more maximum power from a 15 amp controller.

Thank you once again for your advice. Is there a particular controller or brand and supplier that you could recommend for this?

Many thanks.

 

[saneagle]

Thank you once again for your advice. Is there a particular controller or brand and supplier that you could recommend for this?

Many thanks.

This one. You'll need a speed sensor because your motor doesn't have one. Also, you must choose an LCD (not LCD1). The rest of the stuff is optional. It's dual voltage, so when your battery becomes tired, you can simply swap it for a 36v one, which will slot straight in:

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