Customisation of the Yosepower kit or other ebike kits

[PC2017]

Successfully installed the front 250w, with a full charge, c12=4 default and c5=5, there is a 2v-2.5v sag when throttling at a stand still on PAS5 though I would assume that's something to do with the lower RPM of the motor, as the weather has been horrid I have not have much chance to drain a battery to 36/37v however I did get down to 37.2 and on a small hill with an average steepness, it did cut out on throttle, this time I did not see what voltage it cut off at and once switched off and on again it ran fine on PAS5 and throttle although I did not travel far - So I can put the 350w motor on the eliminated list however when I have the chance I will test the half charge on the 250w for more conclusive results - next on the list, most likely a whim of mine but, while it's rigged up I will remove my waterproof China generic wire connector from the battery power cable and solder the battery out wires directly to the controller or use some bullet connectors.

 

[PC2017]

Is it possible that the LCD3 is at fault? Its possible to run bike without LCD3 by strapping the plug. I have tried this and it worked . Alternatively, try swapping the LCD3 with another.

Waterproof connector removed and the battery is now joined with bullet connectors and heat shrink protected. This did not appear to make much difference HOWEVER...

I have been running on C5=03(11a) and it still cuts out albeit at a new resting voltage of 36v not 37.2v as with C5=05.

So - I went down the "list" after several tests and came to the LCD swap, I am back to the 350w rear and was just about to go back and fully test the dolphin mount controller, however before I re-cabled the setup I thought I would test the LCD3... I started my run at a resting 39v (14ah)not off the charger I will add, after several miles on C5=03 (about 11 amps) I got down to 37v the usual voltage marker were it starts to cut out on full pelt, then came 36.2v about where tests have proven C5=03 starts to cut off when the 2.5-3v sag occurs, then to my shock it carried on dropping voltage as it should. So I changed C5 to 05(16.5a)then tested at 36V PAS 5 incline start down to 34.8V with sag then back up to 36V no cut off, the last reading I got before the cold started biting was 35.5V to 33.9V still no cut off and as it should be!

I have yet to confirm the swapped LCD3 settings with the one on the bike but as far as I am aware I ghosted all the settings to all my LCD3s a while back, this time only changing C5... Further testing is required but if all the settings are the same, how can it be the LCD at fault, the only idea I have is the amp draw reduction parameter is not work as it should, surely I would of noticed as the wattage did max out differently for each C5 setting change. I do remember some one saying that the amp draw reduction feature has been known not to work. Before I get too relieved I will make several test rides to make sure this was not a fluke.

 

[PC2017]

I eliminated the LCD swap as a problem both batteries cut out at 33.6v under sag from 37v on both LCD3's and the dual voltage 22a controller, I thought it might be the battery age and cold weather however....

I went back to the dolphin mount controller - 15a 36v - and just finished one test ride and got down to 33.3v under load and sagging from 37v with no cut outs and returning to 37v, this is only one test so I will go again till it either cuts out or dies at battery level indicator flash, which I am sure it will do this time.

So if my theory is correct and the batteries are not the problem could it just be a faulty controller... If I get a new battery and that new battery cuts the 22a controller out at 33v every time I get to 37v and apply throttle I will be most annoyed, but I guess I'l have to purchase a new battery and suck it and see!

 

[PC2017]

Just re-read some of the posts from way back and I forgot about PSW having warehouse space in Germany, just found the same(ish) battery E29 with charger and shipping for £214.00 - Anyone had an batteries from these guys and are they any good?(£116 saving!)

 

[Jammyb]

Just re-read some of the posts from way back and I forgot about PSW having warehouse space in Germany, just found the same(ish) battery E29 with charger and shipping for £214.00 - Anyone had an batteries from these guys and are they any good?(£116 saving!)

I've just bought the 48V 14.5AH samsung E29 for £212 from them via aliexpress - came in 3 days! Looks like price has increased a bit now, Yet to get my bike up and running again to use it though.

 

[Nealh]

I have a PF celled one from PSWPower priced similarly about 2 years old now in the style linked. No issues and works fine but seeing the recent ES thread on cell ageing and DCIR will likely in future go back using 29E or LG MJ1/M36/M29 cells in18650 format.

EU No Tax 36V 14.5AH Li-ion E-Bike Battery with Charger Made of SAMSUNG INR18650-29E fits 36V 500W motor - PSWPOWER.com

www.pswpower.com

 

[Nealh]

With the 22a KT which PAS level doe is cut out on ?

 

[PC2017]

samsung E29 for £212 from them via aliexpres

Thanks for posting, yer I spotted it on their own site for the same price as what you paid, this will/would be my 1st hailong and I see there is a few issues with the case it's self, mainly for the mount plate has screw hole way up top, I am thinking rivenuts but I always assumed that it would be supported by at least on bottle cage screw and then a rivenut, in my case I am looking at 2 rivenuts or bolts through the frame - Is your just replacing the same style of battery or a complete new battery install?

22a KT which PAS level doe is cut out on

22a set to 16a or 14.66a still the same no problems until the voltage hits 37v then at any PAS, a bit of throttle to move off from standstill, voltage sag to 33.X then cuts outs, a simple PAS 0 then back to 1 it cuts back in and it's fine until it needs that stop start ramp up, but I reinstalled the 15a controller and early testing shows the sag reaching down to 33.3v and not one cut out, I need to test at 36/35v standing voltage to confirm its not the batteries.

 

[Jammyb]

Thanks for posting, yer I spotted it on their own site for the same price as what you paid, this will/would be my 1st hailong and I see there is a few issues with the case it's self, mainly for the mount plate has screw hole way up top, I am thinking rivenuts but I always assumed that it would be supported by at least on bottle cage screw and then a rivenut, in my case I am looking at 2 rivenuts or bolts through the frame - Is your just replacing the same style of battery or a complete new battery install?

My first battery with the yosepower kit is also a hailong but the smaller size. That one lined up perfect with the existing 2 bottle cage screw holes. Your right this newer slightly taller one has different mounting holes. Having it in the same location on my frame ment the first hole lined up with the top bottle cage screw location but ive had to put a rivenut in the frame a couple of inches up for the second mounting hole.

No problem putting the rivnet in though, small hole drilled very easily in the frame just big enough to get the rivenut in - so don't let that put you off

 

[Nealh]

22a set to 16a or 14.66a still the same no problems until the voltage hits 37v then at any PAS, a bit of throttle to move off from standstill, voltage sag to 33.X then cuts outs, a simple PAS 0 then back to 1 it cuts back in and it's fine until it needs that stop start ramp up, but I reinstalled the 15a controller and early testing shows the sag reaching down to 33.3v and not one cut out, I need to test at 36/35v standing voltage to confirm its not the batteries.

Yes, must be controller fault can't conceive that the lvc is higher but you could test with battery at varying voltages above 33.3 v to 36v to see what is the lowest it will work at.
The fault may be voltage regulation so likely a software issue ?

 

[Sturmey]

....... still the same.....

Something I have been thinking about. It seems to me (am I right) that you initially set up your bike with the Yose LCD3 and Yose KT controller, and then sometime later swapped in a larger KT controller bought from a different source.
OK There could be compatibility issues. However, I think there is also a possibility of some type of confused state caused by the LCD 3 programmed with one set of values and the replacement controller having default values.
One thing you could try is resetting the LCD3 using the C10 =y value (restore default settings) in the hope of bringing both the LCD3 and the new controller back to same settings. However, before this I would carefully write down all the current P and C values. I would then setup the new values.

 

[PC2017]

so don't let that put you off

lol - it was more the cost of a rivenut tool for the sake of two holes that was putting me off!

test with battery at varying voltages above 33.3 v to 36v

That's a good idea I will complete my 15a controller tests and reinstall the dual 22a.

Yose LCD3 and Yose KT controller

Due to the issues I had with the motors I only ran the YOSE 250w motor on a YOSE controller with no issues and then the 350w on my first dillenger stealth controller, then tried the YOSE controller then the new aliex 15a stealth then the 22a in preparation for the 48v idea, however I will try a factory default reset on the LCD3 when I reinstall the 22a.

 

[PC2017]

48V 14.5AH samsung E29 for £212 from them via aliexpress

Just a quick question did you purchase from the German warehouse or did it come from china? and if from china who delivered it and did it occur VAT/DUTY etc?

 

[Jammyb]

Just a quick question did you purchase from the German warehouse or did it come from china? and if from china who delivered it and did it occur VAT/DUTY etc?

On Aliexpress it lets you choose where to ship from and germany was an option. So I went for that, came via DHL and I had full tracking from the pickup in germany to my door

 

[PC2017]

ship from and germany

Yep thought as much - cheers for the info - I have hit a wall, if go with a new style battery then my old batteries become worthless but if I get a dolphin case then I can use a dual voltage controller and swap batteries if needed, the only problem is PSW only do 48v in 10.4ah and I think its unbranded cells

 

[PC2017]

So I changed all the battery to controller connectors to 14awg wire and XT90's - Still the 22a(set at C5=5 for 14.66a) cuts out at 33.5v HOWEVER I did get my shuntted YOSE 15a controller back from my mate and XT90ied it up and rigged up and shock it got down to 31.5v no cut outs on max draw setting and the battery level indicator started flashing, just as the dolphin mount controller has proven so that's one huge relief, I thought I was going mad, so now I wait for the 17a 36/48v controller and try that... so its either as covered an issue with said controller or the amp draw setting on the LCD3

 

[wheeliepete]

Still the 22a(set at C5=5 for 14.66a) cuts out at 33.5v

It could be it's pulling more amps than you think or the LVC is higher than stated.

 

[PC2017]

LVC is higher

That was one of the initial thoughts, the amp draw does hold true with relation to watts seen however that said I think it is 1a higher than 22... I have even tried setting C5 at 3 approx 11a and it still cuts out at 33.5v. If it is LVC is it software related or is there anything visual internally I could see to prove there is an issue for the seller on aliex... I did a vid yesterday but with the wind it's hard to hear the cut out however you can see the watts zero out and the voltage return to 35.6v on the LCD whilst the throttle is still on but trying to communicate this to China is well tricky to put it mildly!

 

[wheeliepete]

I would say it's software/firmware controlled, but LVC can be anywhere between 31-33v. What's written on the controller?

 

[Nealh]

Have a look at the power leads from the controller, compare them between both to see if they are thinner then 14awg as sometimes they are, thin awg can cause a bottle neck even if short and only 10 -16 cm long.

At 33.5v lvc I wouldn't be too unhappy as it is good safety limit preventing to deep a DOD. 33.5v would be about 15 - 20%. With all my batts once I get down to lower voltage < 34v I use lower PAS or swap battery (if not paralleled ) to save stress and heating the cells, it boils down to how you want to look after your battery and the life/cycling you want out of it.